Kas Turkey

While in Gocek, the always helpful Doug Wothke sent me a message saying he has a friend in Kas, south Turkey, if I happen to be going that way.  I looked it up and I was only 150 km away!

Sent his friend a message, who so quickly replied at 7 in the morning.. saying to come visit!  Yay!  I always love to meet people on my way who knows the area, as they always give the best inside scoop of best roads, places etc.

So with only 150 km to go today, easy peasey.. I wander along the coast slowly. It’s a nice break to travel without a mission!  “What’s over there?”  

Well let’s go have a look! Maybe go down that road, for no good reason other than it looks interesting… these are the best days.

I found this place called Xanthos.. by the sound of it, must be more Greek ruins?  I have trouble concentrating on the history though as I am just in love with the spring wild flowers more..

I have no idea what the words say on this block, but gee whiz, words carved so many years.. centuries ago?  So curious what it says..

Deary me!! Talk about a dramatic history!  Here is the story of Xanthos I have learned from http://www.allaboutturkey.com/xanthos.htm

"Xanthos is the oldest and largest city of the mountainous province of Lycia, settled around 8th century BC in the valley of the Xanthos (today's Kinik) river in the Mediterranean region of Turkey. Until the Persian invasion in the 4th century BC it was an independent state. When the people of Xanthos, who had bravely tried to defend their city against Persians, realized that they could not repulse the invasion, they first killed their woman and committed mass suicide by throwing themselves into the flames. About 80 surviving families and people who immigrated there rebuilt the city, but a fire which broke out about 100 years later razed it to the ground. In spite of this, the city was again rebuilt and, establishing good relations with its neighbors, was considered as an important center in Lycia. However, Xanthos again met with an unfortunate end. As a result of resisting the taxes the Athenians wanted to impose on them in 429 BC, the city was largely destroyed and the inhabitants were drawn into a war. And thus Xanthos became "a city of disasters". "

Wait, gotta look at the bike again.. flowers and snow capped mountains this time.. just love it! ;-))

Okay, turn around Sherri Jo.. more interesting remnants of past life history to see..

Xanthos doesn't seem to be a main attraction, no tourists or entry fees.  It's just here.. and I just noticed there is a cow eating at the amphitheater, so there you go.  However, this is so much nicer to see without the crowds, especially on such a beautiful day.

I got a call from David.. who asks if I am vegetarian, because he and his wife are putting on a Christmas Dinner tonight!  What??  I look at my phone calendar, because I have lost sense of days and time on this trip, but I didn’t think I was that bad!

David also has some motorcycle guests from Holland, Marko and Dorine, and a crazy young third guest of the day Ruud, also a Dutch.  So with all the shiny nice motorcycles around, I guess David and family got inspired for Christmas??

I better get back on the road and make my way to Kas then.. don't want to miss this meal!!

More coastal south Turkey roads.. that water... so blue!

I met a couple of bikers from Austria on this road.  We stopped to say hello and decided to go for an afternoon tea.  They're on their way to India!  Brave souls to want to take on Indian traffic!

 

So fun to meet them.. Was only on the road only 10 minutes more, and I meet 3 more riders (2 from Germany and 1 from Czech Republic) on their one week riding holiday.  In this part of the world (South Turkey) I have seen the highest concentration of bikers so far.. they all seem to know what I only just learned.. it's a great ride!!

Good to know I am in good company on these roads?  And you know these guys impressed me, as they walked up to me while taking photos, they say, "Hey, you are the girl riding your bike all the way around the world, yes?"  I'm thinking.. "no way..."  They only knew because they had met with Robert in Gocek who gave me all the great route advice.

Okay, I must stop dallying, as Christmas dinner is on my mind!

There's just no stopping how pretty this ride is..

Until I met this guy!  I am only stopped for a minute here on the road, no buildings around, etc.. I was tinkering with my gps, and this guy comes up to me and I get quite a shock! I look around, there is water on one side and rocks on the other.. where the heck did he come from?

He speaks a little English and with that accent asks me #1, My name, #2 am I married and #3... can he be my boyfriend... ????!!!!  Dude, serious!!???  

Hayir.. Tessiker Ederim  (no thank you..)

He actually was a lovely guy, but I'm thinking about that upcoming meal again, better go.. hey?!!

I find my way to Kas.. however the gps (which is working so minimally for me in this country, only very basic info) does not want to take me to David's house.

Marco to the rescue, he comes and meets me on the main road and guides me in!

We're heading away from the coast and it's just as pretty this way.. Again, as usual with my journey, I had no idea what to expect from this part of the world, but I didn't think of Turkey with snow capped mountains, pine trees, etc.

Arrival to the house of English and Dutch!  How will an Aussie/American ever fit in!

This is Englishman David Bird, quite a popular presence on ADVrider, I understand.

And these are some of his kids..  I am so impressed and happy to see that he and his wife are passionate about helping the animals.. All these guys have such a dreadful story and were in desperate need of rescue in Turkey, and look how fat and happy they are now..  They also have a proper rescue center they work in helping so many more dogs and cats in the area..  

I have been laughed at a bit myself in these last few countries, as I see many cats and dogs... so many of them without homes, everywhere!  Some countries have a culture to put food out in the streets for them, and some don't.  So for me, whenever I get a meal, I save usually half, if not buy extra, carry in my tank bag and feed the worse cases as I travel along.. It's so hard, because I just want to feed and take care of them all!  So I can see why David's household is full, I would be the same.

Now, young Ruud is in the midst of giving a lesson to Marco on how to properly pick up the bike when it's down.

Success!  A bit worried about the color of his head though! ;-)

Now, David want's to try...

Success #2! What a good teacher is Ruud!

I also give it a go using my own bike (with only the rear bag off, panniers full)  And I did it!!  No photos though.. ;-((  Please, believe me.. I honestly didn't do it well, but it was a good lesson for me too.

Everybody's happy and Juliette (David's wife) calls us in for that special meal..

Look at ALLLLLL that good food!!!

I have been enjoying Turkish food, but this is a super nice treat.  THANK YOU DAVID AND JULIETTE!!!

After a good sleep on their super comfy couch, the next day it's time to make the next move.

 

Marco and Dorine from Amsterdam, are heading toward East Turkey.. I am going to follow along the South Coast, and Ruud is staying in Kas (he met a really nice girl there.. ;-)

Being that the kitty cat is holding the bike down, sounds like a good choice for him.

Croatia Mountain Ride

It's not sunny, but it's not raining either....Hallelujah! Let's Ride!!!!!!

It's Croatia in the Mountains today... whew hew!!  Meet Rakela, Ivan and you already met Anton, my host!

The day before this it was raining hard so I went into Split, just 20 km down the road to wander around the historic old city.  When I was walking on the street I see a big BMW1200 on the sidewalk with heaps of worldly stickers on it!  That bike has been places and where is it from?  I see the registration in Croatia, and I'm like.. hmph!  Then this tall man walks up to me and clearly his bike, I introduce myself.  He enthusiastically asks many questions of which I tell him I am staying with Anton.. He says, I know that guy!!  Why didn't he call me to tell me you are here??!!  "I don't know!!"  So he rings Anton straight away.. Anton apologizes for not putting out a Croatia wide post that Sherri Jo is in town, but we make a plan to ride together.  Cool!  

So this is the day we ride!

Good view of how curvy the roads are.. this is the same way it looks when riding along the coastal road, such tight twisty curves which usually stays right on the water.. which is cool,  but usually I don't have a bigger view of it like this.

I always feel good when all the bikes are together...  

Close by, Ivan (pronounced eevon, not eyevan) shows me amongst the hills these little war bunkers.  He points out a few of them within view.  One thing that is always a part of my experience ever since I have been anywhere in Europe is war history.  From Estonia to here.  All countries have it, it just seems to really stand out to me in these particular countries, probably because there is so much of it!  And of coarse here in Croatia, their last war was so recent in the 1990's.  But these bunkers are from WW2 if I remember correctly.

As we follow Ivan around, I remember thinking in my helmet that he is like a proper tour guide!  He stops the bikes and explains and shows things. What a nice guy!! I didn't realize it until later in the day when I asked, but Ivan is quite a tour guide... seriously!  I knew he was a good friend of Anton, and that he had a motorcycle shop near Split, but I'm slow.  I found he rents out motorcycles in the shop to tourists and can include Ivan as a tour guide if they choose! Here is his website if you might be interested in a motorcycle or any other holiday in croatia! http://www.visit-croatia.co.za  Highly recommend it, especially if you want to explore away from the mad tourist route!! 

So, our next stop is a water well.  He was pretty sure I had never seen how the villages get their water, and he was right.  That embankment is built for rain water to drain into the well, and the little house is where you'll find the bucket when you need some water.  Gee whiz, I have had it easy in my life!  Regardless of the work involved, the water is clear and beautiful.

Rakela, whom I just met yesterday, is on the phone.. He finishes and comes over to tell me that he has organized a newspaper and television interview for me in Split.. Man on the job!! Heck!  I can't imagine!  I feel a bit embarrassed and not particularly worthy of such interest... I'm just a girl on a bike, and not very good at it either...

Photos by: Anton

We ride through many little mountain villages.  With the gray clouds of winter and dead trees, it certainly adds to the character.

After a very fun morning both on road and off road, we pull up to this house.  Off the bikes and Ivan asks, "You all hungry?"  Well, actually, yes!  But where are we??

Ivan, being the ultimate explorer on a motorcycle had found this house a few months ago by accident.  He befriended the owner and knows he can whip up an excellent meal.  Without notice, we are hoping we score a good meal today too.

Yes!  He's home and there is plenty of trout in the pond!

The stream water flows into and out of his own little catchment.  With the net in one scoop, we have fresh fish.  On to the floor where they get a knock on the head.  (I couldn't watch or photo that part..)

And then moments later, dinner in hand!!! (So sorry little guys, but thank you...)

Next surprise, I think we are just going into his house, but this is more like a pub/restaurant.  We are in the middle of nowhere!  There is not a sign outside, I would have never thought to stop here if I was riding on my own.. and it's so cool!!!!!

He gives us a drink of his homemade brew... really strong, so I just had this tiny bit.  I don't drink while riding motorcycle, but in this case, it is special hand made and I don't want to offend...  Check out the walls!!!

 

The boys warming up by the fire... isn't it romantic!!?  ;-))  ha!

Food starts coming out, bread cheese and meat..

And then, the fish and potato!!  Oh dear, they were so alive moments ago, but they look darn tasty now...  finger lickin' goooood...

I'm still amazed at what a fun restaurant is out here.. They have really put a lot of work into creating such a treasure, but who would know it's here??  Understandly some of the locals would, but it's far off the beaten track and wouldn't be sustainable by any means.. But lucky for us, it was absolutely awesome..

Back on the bikes, and it has actually started raining again.. who cares, we are all so full and happy, and I didn't know it at the time, but Ivan has a lot more he wants to show us!

To be continued...