To Ushuaia on a motorcycle!

So this is how my day started leaving the farm, Estancia el Chalet, and James behind on my ride down to Ushuaia.  Remember the one fuel station in town that I mentioned in the previous blog post? It has finally had a fuel delivery and EVERYBODY needs some! So I must wait in line. 

The line goes quick enough though, I have to say.  What I like about Argentinian stations is that they fill the tank for you and take your money on the spot.  No need to go into a building and walk thorough rows of potato chips, coke, tools, magazines, t-shirts, and fluffy toys just to get to the cashier to pay.  They run this a bit like an assembly line!  I wonder how long it will take to fill that lovely camper I'm behind..

The van says, "Argentina..  Busqueme, me encontraron, en el pais de la libertad" Hopefully I have this right, but I interpret it to say,  "I look, I find, in the country of freedom"

I'm freeeee.......!!!!!!!!!!!!

Only me and the road.. I am loving it!!

I can't get over my luck.  I am riding in warm weather free of wind. Zero wind, in one of the windiest places in the world!  I know I'm lucky today and I'm going to take advantage of this and ride as far as I can.  I bet the wind returns tomorrow. I rode 635 km the first day with only a small snack stop.  I just didn't want to stop!

The most perfect riding conditions 29C, hundreds of kilometers later, still no wind..!!  All I've ever heard from every soul I've spoken to about this ride is how difficult it is to ride in the cold horizontal wind.  I've certainly experienced it in prior days, so I'm expecting it any moment. I'm overdressed, warm and loving my day!

I met another solo rider on the way.  The poor dear ran out of gas.  He was funny. He flew over from Spain, purchased his bike in Alaska and is riding it to Ushuaia, with only $500 budget.  No wonder he ran out of gas! EVERYTHING is freakin' expensive down here!!

We are about 50 km to the next fuel stop and I am running on fumes as it is.  Nothing to spare, but regardless of the distance, I will go get him some gas and bring it back.  He said that would be great but another rider on a BMW had just stopped and offered the same.  It's a gamble as you don't know if as stranger will show up for a 100 km round trip, but I still said I would do the same.  It's better to have too much than not enough.  After all the help I've received, I can't just leave him there!

I found the BMW rider at the fuel station 50 km later. He had already purchased a big fuel container and had it strapped on to the back seat of his bike.  I talked to him just to confirm this fuel is for the guy stranded on the road (por el hombre de Espana) and he said yes.  I asked again, just to be sure, it's a red bike that he bought in Alaska (el moto rojo de Alaska).." Si, Si, Senorita!"  I feel confident with that, so I filled up my own tanks and went on my way.  I just wish I knew triple sure that he gets the fuel, but I'm trying not to be so over the top... ;-)

I was still belting down the road enjoying the ride and my lucky weather when I wondered what the hurry was.  I pulled over for a night in San Julian on the east coast early about 2 pm, set up camp on the ocean and took advantage of this wonderful weather! I decided to make myself a nice meal with the camp burner with a plan to enjoy the sunset.

 San Julian, Argentina

My tent was set up by about 2:20 and I went to the grocery. Hmm, I'm bored. Now what.  I asked the lady in the camp office and she suggested a dirt track to go see a colony of sea lions. OK!

It was only 26 km, but I rode all the way down there and not a single sea lion in sight.  Oh well, it was great to ride in the gravel.  A nice break from all the monotonous paved Ruta 3.

I spent the following night in Rio Gallegos, and got up early the next morning to ride to the Chilean border.  Once there I met a really nice man on a Suzuki V-Strom from Israel.  His name in Gabby and he suggested we ride together today. Sure!

 Following Gabby

Here you either turn right and head to Punta Arenas Chile, or continue south to Ushuaia, which requires crossing a river.  On the boat we met a couple more riders from Brazil.  This road is one big moto-adventure highway.  I was thinking it's a bit like being in the Scouts when we were kids (I was a Brownie and a Girl Scout!)  Once you complete a special project or task, you get a badge to wear on your uniform.  This is the same.  If you ride a motorcycle, it's important to go this far to get your sticker from Ushuaia to put on your motorcycle.  And it seems the most common journey of any rider I've ever met in the world does exactly this. Alaska to Ushuaia or vice versa. So I will hopefully get my own badge soon!

Another border crossing and we meet this guy. Ali.  He asks where I am from, and I say "Australia, where are you from?"  and he says Kuwait.  Gabby is just getting his helmet off and says, "Oh, you don't want to know where I'm from then.. Ali asks "Where?"  Gabby says, "Don't kill me, but I'm from Israel"..  Ali lit up, Gabriel lit up the laughed and hugged like they were long lost best friends from grade school!!!  I wish I had my camera going at that point, but I was just big-eyed and watching this great event!

Israel and Kuwait have been fighting for 40 years.  They both apologized for their countries politics and leaders.  Ali says, "We are one people."  We all agreed, I nearly had a tear...

One Shared Planet sticker on Kuawati motorcyle

Anyway, they are headed north, and we are riding south.  So nice to meet you!!! You don't get that sort of experience everyday!  Me, the Aussie/American is riding with Israel and we meet Kuwait on the border of Argentina and Chile.. there ya go!!!

Not long after the next border, the highway turns to gravel.

Gabby is a super nice man riding solo in his sixties.  I followed him on the pavement, but once we started the gravel, he slows right down.  He's on a heavy bike and not so comfortable with his tires either. I stuck with him for a bit, but it's simply easier for me to ride faster.  So I do what has always been done for me, I ride my pace then stop on occasion to see if the person behind me is ok and still moving.  When I see his headlight, I carry on.

On one of these stops I didn't see a headlight for quite a while.  I thought, uh oh.  So I turned around to check on Gabby. Sure enough he was off his bike.

Gabby, what's wrong? "Sherri, I don't know.. I really don't know, it just died!!"  He was so flustered..!! Bugger, really?  He says, " it will start, but when I put it in first gear it immediately dies."  He got on his bike to show me.  I told him, "I'm no mechanic, but I'd guess that's a sidestand sensor". 

I showed him where I think the sensor might be, only in comparison to my own bike and knowledge.  We found the sensor and saw a huge stone from the road lodged in there.  He took it out, and we hoped it was fixed. But unfortunately it still didn't work.  Gabby tells me he is so thankful I found the problem for him, but he doesn't know how to fix it and for me to go on to Ushuaia.  He will set up a tent and camp here.  I said, "No you're not, Gabby! It's still early enough in the day. We will find a solution to this, you wait and see."

Within minutes, like magic, two Argentinian guys traveling on bikes from the opposite direction pull over to see what's wrong.  I told them. They got off their bikes, and knew exactly how to fix the sensor problem (remove it, cut and tape the wires).  Bike started and went into first gear... done!

How amazing, and I can not tell you how many times angels from nowhere fly in to save the day on my trip. Absolute magic!

So Gabby's bike was a nice simple easy fix.  I wish it was always this way, I'm jealous!  I won't mention to him what I've been through lately...

After the last border crossing (Argentina into Chile, out of Chile into Argentina)... just to be clear, that's four offices and four immigration officers to stamp our passports and four customs officers to stamp in and out the bikes, meaning four slow lines to stand in one day.  That's my tiny little whinge out of the way!

Anyway, after the last border crossing, the road turns to pavement again, and we arrive the last large-ish town, Rio Grande.  Here Gabby wants to stay the night, however, I want to ride on down to Ushuaia another 212 km.  There's nothing to see or do in Rio and I know the weather is supposed to change tomorrow, so I'd rather ride.  I tell Gabby it was nice riding with him and he says, "Wait, I'm staying with you!"  I told him it's not necessary, but I'm not ready to stop for the day.  He insists he wants to keep riding.  I feel bad, as I knew this was his goal destination for the day, we've already ridden about 430 km.  However, his choice, so he followed me.

My first sighting of an Ushuaia sign.. ooooo getting closer!

HAD to stop at this sign.  INDIANA!!  I am born in Indiana, USA and there are no other places in the world called this that I'm aware of, until now!

The landscape is changing and only 94 km to Ushuaia....

76 kilometers to Ushuaia.

48 kilometers to Ushuaia.. Yep, this is taking soooo long because I keep looking at the gps with excitement.  If I'd ignore it, the ride would seem shorter.

I remember coming through here before and I wanted to pull over so Gabby could see the view.

Always a chuckle when you "borrow" some stranger to take a photo...

OK..23 kilometers to go!!  Am I driving you crazy yet?  I'm driving my own self crazy...  Almost there!!!!!!

There she is..... USHUAIA!!

Wel pull into town and since I've already been here, I give Gabby the accommodation options. I think I know every location and their prices.  I already know I'm heading to the campground Rio Pipos for $10/nt.  Great wifi and super kitchen.  Gabby is not keen to camp even though he owns a tent.  So I direct him to a few other places.  Minimum shared is about $40 USD, but most hostels and privates are closer to $80 and up per night.

Gabby still says he wants to stick with me.  So he came to the campground.  He told me how much he hates camping, but he'll do it.  I couldn't convince him otherwise to go and stay in town.

The next morning when I saw him, he was packing up his bike, really early.  He said that's it.. he can't stay here!  I'm in love with this campground, I am very happy to stay.  He said he called his wife on skype and told here that he met a crazy Aussie/American lady riding her motorcycle solo (she is afraid to ride, is why he is telling her) and that I made him ride 653 km in one day!  (He is joking of course).  He said he had never ridden that far in one day his entire trip from Florida to here!  I didn't feel it was that far. The day went fast due to all the border crossings, his breakdown for 1 hour, and we still arrived with plenty of daylight.  I said my goodbyes to Gabby from Israel, he was a pleasure to meet and ride with.

I do like it here. Most riders get their "badge", have their celebratory drinks, a photo, and leave.  I can't help to keep thinking that out of all the places in the world I get to call home for a while, twice!, it's at the very tippy bottom of the world, Ushuaia.

Christmas in Ushuaia

I made it to the bottom of the world, Ushuaia Argentina alone.  Ushuaia is a very expensive place to be.  Not only for taking advantage of the tourists, but it's a long way to get supplies delivered. When I organized the cabin for us, both friends James and Mark agreed to do it, but to help keep costs down, we had one more bed to anyone else who might be interested.

The next day James came in on his motorcycle and was very very cold.  It was a tough ride for him, but I'm glad he made it without issue.  Mark Donham will be arriving tomorrow.  He's got the big bucks (;-), so he came down early for a cruise to Antarctica.  It's something I've always wanted to do as well, but it's crazy expensive and will have to wait for a future Sherri Jo adventure.

While James and I were settling in, there was a knock at the door.  I open it, and there is a man with a big "HELLO!" in his riding gear.  "Who are you??"  Well, WHO ARE YOU??  "I'm Slow Phil.. from Canada"  G'day Slow Phil, come in... Do we know you??

Mark, knowing we had an extra bed available put the info out online, ADV Rider and the deal sounded good to Phil, so he responded to Mark.  Since Mark was out of reach on the Cruise Ship, we didn't know about it, but that's okay.  We got the story, and it all made sense, and we are glad to have a new roommate, OR ARE WE??

Lord have Mercy!  It's the Hulk!?  It was James who kept thinking that Phil looks like Hulk, looked up a photo online (in the left hand corner) and got Phil to make an imitation of it.. Which he did perfectly. Brilliant!

Phil is here on his Suzuki V-Strom. Mark came in the next day from his cruise and I have a goal to complete.  Many of you know, but for those that don't, Kevin was killed on his Buell Ulysses motorcycle on his way down a few months ago.  Our goal at the time was to get to Ushuaia together.  He didn't make it in person, but I have a piece of his helmet from the accident site and it has been my goal and mission to get him here in any way I could.  Now that all the boys are here, it's time...

Kevin's brother in Scotland, Ian, suggested we share Scottish whiskey. I surprisingly found a small bottle in Ushuaia and we all had a good drink, shared a bit with Kevin with lots of cheers and tears!

This was like a big closure thing for me.  I feel a bit of weight lifted.  Kevin's plan was to go back to Canada for 6 months for his job while I explored through the Amazon and down.  Then he was coming back to "finish the job" as he said to Ushuaia. I was worried I wouldn't make it either with the recent bike trouble, but we got you here Kev!!  I really miss Kevin and wish so much he could have enjoyed this in person.

While the boys are together we decided to stop by the grocery on the way back to the cabin.  We have very limited resources and cooking facilities, so this will be interesting!

Yep, there we go..  My four MALE roommates over Christmas looking very lost and confused in the grocery store... hahahaha!!!

Left to right:  Claude, Mark, Phil and James

The fourth person in our little house is Claude (who I keep calling Cloud for unknown reasons!)  He's a French-Canadian from Florida that told me he was coming to our Christmas dinner..... while he was still in Florida!  This man rode through Mexico, Central and South America so fast on his motorcycle, I'm not sure when he slept or when he managed to see anything he was riding past.  But it's good to meet him and have him here.  Since my bike is still up the road, he's my driver/rider for today on the back of his BMW 1200gs .. yay!  Whew!  I now know how he got here so fast, a very quick and whippy rider. I think my back is still suffering from jumping over the road speed bumps! ;-) Very talented and comfortable on his bike that's for sure.

Look boys, forget the groceries. This is all we need.... !!!

I'd like to, but I can't take the credit for the line up on the kitchen table.  We bought the wine together.  They are for Christmas, but I think a few of those bottles didn't make it.. gone the first night!  We did manage to save some for tomorrow.. and thank goodness there are more friends coming over with spare stash! And hopefully, without holding my breath, there is a shop that sells wine open tomorrow.

Christmas Day... We have invited people to come around 1 pm.. so what does a household of men (and me) decide to do with our time?  Young James is travelling with a Santa Suit, which we found in a small shop in San Rafael (northern Argentina).  Dressed him up and took a cruisy ride around town.. Santa on a BMW!

We all sort of agree the super size town Santa on the left is a bit disturbing.. but let's see if James can do one better for the town.

The people are thrilled!  Here comes Santa Claus..on a motorcycle!

Lots of people taking photos.  This role is made for James.  I think he should do this every year.

One very important photo we must take is of Santa James in front of the British Pirate sign.  James is from England and there is an ongoing heated government 'discussion' of who should own the Falkland Islands, off the coast of Argentina.  Known in Argentina as Islas Malvinas, the locals want their islands back. There has been bloody battle (The Falklands War in 1982), and still remains a lot of passion and animosity to the Brits.  Luckily the Argentinian people that we have met, and learn that James is from England, have been good to us.

So this is James little British invasion photo in a Santa Suit down by the pier. I don't think it's enough to scare off the Argentinian troops though!  The sign says, "British pirate ships are prohibited from mooring."

 

One last little photo with Santa before heading back to get the party started!

I was flabbergasted at the amount of international riders that showed up at our little cabin.  We all invited people, however I think Mark takes the award for inviting the most. We'd be walking down the street in Ushuaia and he'd yell out, "Hey wanna come to our Christmas party?"  to random strangers.. as long as they had two wheels, they were invited.

We referred to them by country.. The Greeks showed up first, Stavros and Thanasis from Athens.

Young Ollie, also from England, who came along with some other riders.  Ollie was so amazing to meet as he just showed up in Ushuaia on his motorcycle.. and he's only 18 years old!  He had a lot of great questions as this marks the beginning of his first ride to Alaska.  I was enjoying having the experience to answer!  Until the other boys came up, piped up and they ALL filled poor Ollie's head with tons of advice. I think everyone in the room has ridden a motorcycle from Alaska down with many opinions to offer.  Ollie was gracious and took every bit of it in..  good for him, really cool kid.  I still can't get over taking on something this big at his age.  Just awesome.

Young James feeling very content with his wine.  He has been through a lot over the last few weeks riding with me. The Santa suit is really perfect for him.

We originally guessed we might have about 10 other riders come to our Christmas?  At last count there were over 40~~!!  It was amazing, such a surprise and such a fun great day!!!!! World travellers, UNITE!!

Sherri Jo and The Hulk (aka Slow Phil..)

 How good is THIS??!! Now that's what you call a "Merry Christmas".

There's still a few more days to enjoy Ushuaia, and since I couldn't afford the Antarctic trip, I learn that we can go see some penguins about 60 km south of here at Estancia Harberton.  It's privately owned, very controlled and we can only go there if we agree to the bus tour.. no motorcycles. ;-(  Not ideal, but I've seen nearly everything else around here, so I'd like to go.

Estancia Harberton homestead

They have a great marine museum here, and was perfect for the quick education of the penguins and other marine life here.

Just a few whale bones laying around the front yard.  I guess you can do that if the whale dies on your property!

Now, I'm going to go into penguin photo overload.  They were just so funny and easy to photograph and I couldn't decide which ones to keep.  So I kept many!

We take a little aluminium boat from the farm to their penguin island.

And the photo taking marathon begins!

 Lovers.. they were  k i s s i n g..  ha!

I'm guilty of talking to penguins. "Hi, my name is Sherri Jo, I come from the north."  "Huh?"

There was a little baby bird in the field all alone.  Not a penguin, a sea eagle maybe? Little fluff ball..so cute!

I am the headless penguin............. 

Walk this way... talk this waaaay.....

Dancing.. Doing the do ce do!

 Singing!! Laaaaaaaa!!

These penguins are really fun and entertaining.. Who'da thought!?

Our guide tells us we are lucky and have a surprise visitor today.  The majority of penguins here are called Magellanic Penguins.  There are two King Penguins visiting from Antarctica.  Our guide tells us this is very rare for them to come up this far to Argentina. So we are very lucky to see them!

Definitely a King Penguin.  He instructs his Magellanic followers to "Do as I do, stand as I do..Don't speak unless spoken to!"  Si, Your Majesty!

Kisses!!

Two little spys....

Soooo cute!!!

Penguin prayers..

Hey, what type of penguin is he?

Don't look now, we're being followed...

I took so many penguin photos, it wore me out.  I decided to just sit with them for a while.

As we were headed back to our little boat on the beach, this super size tourist boat pulled in.  This was the other optional tour, to come here from down town Ushuaia on a cruise boat rather than bus.  Thank God we made the right decision!  Look at all those people! On top of that, they are not permitted to walk on the island.  The only photos they get is from the deck of the boat, of which the people are all fighting for space.. yuk!!

A view from my window back in Ushuaia.  Not a bad place to be in the world... ;-))

It's been a pretty tough year. Thank you to everyone who came to make one of the best and unforgettable Christmas's ever..! James, Mark, Phil and Claude (Cloud). You guys rock!!