Awesome Perito Moreno Glacier y Peninsula Valdes!

My extended 3 week stay in a tent Ushuaia style has finally come to an end.  Now it's time to say goodbye to another Argentinian family who I just adore.  I really loved living here, Camp Rio Pipos for any of you heading to Ushuaia, I highly recommend!!

I have no idea what could ever replace my mornings of having a helicopter land on my breakfast table!

Ciao Ruben!!

There was a young couple from Poland staying at the campground and we chose to ride together today to Punta Arenas Chile, about 430 km north.

We got to the border and there was this motorbike parked using the fence to prop it up.  I thought, this bike has to be a joke, there is no way somebody actually rides it!  But I was wrong, the rider was waiting in line for immigration and sipping on his Yerba Mate.

The headlight is busted out and there is no side stand.. and I don't think it could handle a side stand anyway! And I never want to hear anybody judge me by my black bag again. This is a male rider!!

 

There is a cheese grater by the license plate.  The computer bag is hanging over the fence side of the bike.. open!  I wish I had a Horizons Unlimited business card.  The guy needs some guidance from their website!  But I may take up his idea to travel with a cheese grater..!

The road to Porvenir Chile, where we'll catch the afternoon ferry.

Even with 3 gps's at work, there is always a question which way to turn in town.

Irrelevant.  I remember thinking while watching the Mom do yardwork, that I haven't worked in my own yard for 2 1/2 years.. and thinking about my yard caused me to take this photo. Not logical but that's a bit more insight into how my mind works than you need! ;-)))

We got to the ferry on time, which is important because there is no ferry again until this time tomorrow!

I think every ferry I've ever been on is where we meet other riders.. always! Here we met some guys from Brazil.

We stayed the night in Punta Arenas.  James had been living here for 3 weeks, so there wasn't much point in hanging around.  I got my new tires (Heidenau's! ;-)) the next day and we headed north to Perito Moreno Glacier.

First glimpse of the glacier.. wow!

Perito Moreno Glacier is the most impressive massive glacier I've seen on the planet thus far.  I knew it was a highlight for the area. Quite honestly, I've seen plenty of glaciers in northern Canada and Alaska and was just expecting the same.  But this crazy glacier blows those other ones away and well worth the journey!

I usually don't like photos that include tourists, but this one I like because it's a better perspective of just house enormous this thing is!

Every few minutes there is the large sound of thunder, which is not thunder but the sound of a big piece of ice breaking off and crashing into the water.. spectacular!

To me, this looks like nature's cathedral.

I really enjoyed hanging about.  The park services did an excellent job putting together viewing platforms from top to bottom and even a boat to get you closer.

We stayed in El Calafate, and I made a surprise decision, even for myself!  The road north of here is supposed to be gorgeous, the Carretera Austral through Chile.  What will I see?  More beauty.. lovely lakes, mountains, views, the type of world we dream of.  But I've been seeing beautiful lakes, glaciers, views, Iguazu Falls, Machu Picchu, Galapagos Islands.. the list goes on forever!  Feeling very content and ready to complete my South American tour, I decide to bypass more pretty roads, leave James behind and head out.  My plan is to get to Buenos Aires where I'll be shipping my bike to New Zealand.  Buenos Aires is the last big thing on my list for this part of the world and all I can think about is getting there and preparing myself and my bike for the next phase of the Because I Can World Tour!

My heated jacket is still not working, so in this chilly weather I've got all my layers on including my winter coat! This is one supersize Sherri Jo, but at least I'll be warm~!

 

James is not so pleased that I'm leaving.  It's always hard to say goodbye to friends you travel with.  But there is no question.. I gotta go!  James still has a lot to accomplish of South America, including Bolivia.. big wishes that the remainder of his travels are safe, a nice big hug and I'm gone.

After all those photos I took yesterday at Perito Moreno Glacier, I forgot to recharge my camera batteries last night.  This is the one and only photo I took all day.. What a shame!  This road was crazy.  280 kilometers of super deep gravel ALONE.  I did not see a single car all day, only a couple on a double bicycle loaded down with gear, which to me is worse! I stopped and asked if they needed anything as they were pushing that push bike up a hill.  They didn't.  Why the heck would you come to this part of the world and ride this gravel road on a bike!? I guess I'm not one to speak.  It was a shortcut for me, is why I'm riding it today..

You see that little bit of blue sky in the photo above?  I chased it the entire ride.  It was black, pouring rain in El Calafate, and didn't want it to get me so my goal was to ride faster than the clouds and I won!

I couldn't believe it.  I rode so fast standing on my foot pegs, nearly hitting every Vicuna on the way.  I wish I got photos of them, they were great.  Near the end of the road, I was wondering how much farther to Ruta 3, so I looked down at my gps.  In that split second I put myself into the middle of the road where the gravel was the thickest.. Really deep.  My bike starting swaying so hard back and forth in the soft rocks, there was no question I was going down big time.  It kept swaying and I kept trying to gently direct the sway out of the gravel.. and I won that battle too!  Seriously couldn't believe that one either.. I was going way down and didn't!!  I slowly came to a stop.. took a few breaths.. said a few bad words.  Saw the gps finally, it said only 5 km's to Ruta 3.  If only I had known I shouldn't have bothered to look.

Once on Ruta 3, I turned north and that wind was blowing a gale.  I had it behind me down the gravel road riding east, which was great.  But it was evil as I rode north again. I was tired and didn't feel like battling the wind, but I did it anyway and made it back to the same campsite I used on the way down a few weeks ago near Puerto San Julian.

Now I just need to concentrate on riding north 2,200 km (1367 miles) to Buenos Aires.

Fairly uneventful.. few photos, just wanting to get the job done.

I stopped in Puerto Madryn for the night at a backpackers and learned about Peninsula Valdes. Some of the young guys were telling me there are Orcas out the peninsula.  Well, I haven't seen an Orca yet!!  I decided to ride the gravel roads out there to try my luck.  There is no guarantee they'll be there the next day, but it's worth a try!

You can see how the wind blows the sand and gravel around like snow.. Nonetheless, it's a super easy ride.  Well maintained road.

I arrived the point for the best views of the Orcas supposedly.  I was early enough that I was the first one there.  The park ranger was really cool.  He said I'd have to hang around all day to see the Orcas and if they show up, they are pretty far out there.  You need high tide for them to be close, which is around 4pm. My Orca experience is getting dimmer and dimmer.

The sea lions are cool though!  I've seen a fair amount of these guys lately, so I'm not as excited as I should be.  Really enjoy watching the pups play, they are so goofy!  But I get an unnecessary worry when one of the babies is crying to his Mom out to sea.  I can't help but to want to sit with it, keep it calm, give it some fish.. but I can't!

Back down the dirt road, the same way I came in to head back to the mainland for my ride north.  I still have quite a lot to accomplish today.

One last stop at Puerto Piramides.. It's time for a very late lunch, about 3 pm.. and I'm starving!!

Mmmmm. Vegetable tart at a cute little oceanside cafe!!

El viento viene.. El viento se va. (The wind comes, the wind goes... )  That is South Argentinian life,and I can say it comes far more than it goes!!!

Finished the road.. no Orcas.. but lots of Sea lions and an awesome lunch. Now.. on to Buenos Aires!!!

Mexico City

Frida Kahlo, Self-Portrait, 1940. See discussion of her works below. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Welcome to Mexico City!!!!

This morning I separated from the boys to visit Mexico City on my own.  It was a big decision at the time. Especially since we had so much trouble on the outskirts of Mexico City's highways and roads.. as well as the dread of living amongst the smog.  

However I had organized to stay with my hosts weeks ago, who are friends of Adam. (See California Death Valley and Yosemite posts).  I studied Spanish history in school and I've wanted to visit Mexico City for many many years.   I can't just pass it up, being this close.

Eran, my host, lives with his wife and son in a small apartment and there was not space for 3 more bikers.  Eran tried to find accommodation near his house for the three, but it was far too expensive to even consider.  It wasn't worth the boys to tackle the traffic, smog and prices just to wait for me.  And I really wanted to go, so we went our separate ways this morning.  I'll meet up with them again further on down the road. 

Nice consolation to be greeted by these smiling faces!

Eran, my host in the center, rides a BMW 1200, and the other two ride KTM!!  Good men!! ;-)

They have another guest already in the house. It was such a welcoming place to be as well as a super good home cooked meal..!!  Recipes from Israel in Mexico City!  An ironic and fun change of pace. I'm feeling really lucky to be here and knowing I made the right decision to come.

The following morning, I have a service scheduled with the KTM shop in Mexico City.  (Another good reason to make the trip into the city.  Finding KTM parts from here on down will be a challenge and I best take advantage of the close proximity of the shop). My gps does not work with addresses in Mexico. And knowing the craziness of the roads and traffic, Eran offers to take time out of his busy day to escort me to the KTM shop.   (I think he loves the idea of riding about on his bike this morning too.. A true biker. ;-))

OMG, so glad to be following Eran.  It's not even rush hour!!!  That sign says Nebraska is coming up. Where am I again???

The guys at KTM were great and Eran waited around patiently for my service so I didn't have to find my own way back. How lucky am I to meet people like Eran all over the world!

He's organized to meet another BMW buddy of his for lunch. They plan on riding their BMW's in Baja California soon where I just came from, and they wanted to hear about the ride.  This is a nice part of the city called Condessa; very much on the pleasant side!  I wouldn't have guessed I could live like this from what I went through on the roads to get in to the city.  But it's nice to see our bikes look so cultured parked by a fountain ;-)

Mmmmmmmmmmmm... check out the lunch food!!!  Great choice Eran!!!  I don't think in any other country in this blog have I carried on this much about the food.  I am totally in love with it here.. can ya tell????

While we are putting our coats on to leave, I look for my keys.  Can't find them.  Crap!  I don't have my keys!!!!

I made a lightening fast dash out to the bike, and how could I be this dumb!!??  (Don't answer that...) They are in the ignition in the MIDDLE OF MEXICO CITY!!!  I took a photo as I could not believe it.  I have done this once before in Spain (and I was lucky that time too on a busy street).  But I figured it out a lot quicker.  This time, I sat through an entire meal, oblivious.  I am so lucky my bike is still here OR Mexico City is not as bad as I was told when it comes to theft.

All is well while we pack up.. could have been a totally different story.

Now I let Eran get back to his day, poor thing.  We locked the bike up in the garage and I take off to explore on foot and subway.

By the looks of the air here, might be best to travel underground anyway?  The only time I've ever seen it this bad was in the Phillipines.

So, up for a bit of Spanish History?  Check out the Spaniards taking control of the indigenous people. What is the priest saying.. "Bless you but we are going to kill you and take your land!" ???

In this one you can see why the ruins are in ruins!!

Every country in the world seems to have a similar history.  This is just a picture of theirs.

The museum was cool, but back out into the lovely smog, I carry on.

I go from this....

To this....!!!

For a long time, Mexico City was the largest city on the planet.  Last time I looked (several years ago) it was number 2 behind Seoul, South Korea.    According to this list http://www.city-infos.com/list-of-urban-areas-by-population it is now # 9.  They list Tokyo as being number one now, I didn't know.. I've been there too.  It was the first city I arrived with my bike on this journey.  I was overwhelmed with the size and population, but didn't know it was number 1!  It's quite an interesting list, have a look.

I escape this madness and take the subway to the neighborhood of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's house and museum.  I really enjoyed reading about this super passionate famous lady and her relationship with artist Diego Rivera in my history class. Also a good movie is "Frida" with Salma Hayek if you haven't seen it!

I LOVE their house.   They don't allow photos inside as usual. You can only purchase a book with the photos in the little store.  Nope.

This little sign in their garden says it all....

Back into the center.. I find the most amazing contrast.

This massive metropolitan Cathedral and the shaman outside healing the people. He had a fair line of up local people to heal too!

Another day, another museum.  Into the center for amazing ruins they didn't uncover until 1978... 1978!!  The reason is they had built the current city over an ancient city more than once. It was only when electrical workers chanced upon an eight-ton stone disk depicting the Aztec goddess Coyolxauhqui. Excavation unearthed a pyramid built in multiple layers. This is the spot where, according to legend, the Aztecs saw their sign to settle from their wanderings.

First, before I go in, I'm looking at the buildings on the edge of the ruins and wondering if there is more under them.  They are looking a bit uneven and wobbly if you ask me.

Here's a small look at what the main Temple would have been like.

English: National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. Reconstruction of the Templo Mayor of Tenochtitlan Deutsch: National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. Rekonstruktion des Templo Mayor in Tenochtitlan (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Templo Mayor was considered to be and built as the "Center of the Universe" !! 

And then a new generation came along and built a whole new world right on top of it.. how did it lose it's importance for all that to happen?!  Maybe see the photos of the conquest again above ;-/

I'm still fascinated that they only unearthed all of this in 1978....

Inside the museum building to see some of the artifacts they found... I love this stuff!  Sorry if it might be boring for you, but this blog is for me to look at and remember when I'm an oldie..

This is the god of death... "El Dios de la Muerte"

OKAY!!!  On to more FUN stuff!!!!!

My wonderful hosts have some more friends coming into town and organized for me to meet them in a special part of Mexico City to the Embarcaderos Nuevo Nativitas.  The actual area is called Xochimilco and were formally the canals used by farmers for crop transport.

Somebody had the grand idea of using the boats and filling them with beer, food and music!!

Eran's friend took the photo and then didn't like that he wasn't in it. So the new and improved version is below. ;-)

Apples, corn, beer, tacos, fruit, more beer, music, dancing.. or you can even bring your own picnic.

What's really cool about this is that it's a gorgeous day out not full of tourists to Mexico City.. it's full of locals.  A favorite spot to spend a Sunday afternoon.  Love it!!

Despite the look of the traffic police above, I have loved so much my visit to Mexico City.  Made even more fun by my hosts Eran and Keren.  I am more than glad I took the time to stop here and experience this great city.

But the time has come to get back on the road.. story of my life!

I decide to make my way to Taxco.

It took an hour and a half of driving out of Mexico City before the smog even began to diminish.

I can't believe I am this far into the countryside now and still need to wear my bandana to breathe.

One last point..  natural environmentally friendly farming practices viewed along the way... Good!! Unfortunately not enough to counter balance the exhaust fumes from the city.  I really hope some day will be the end of cars and trucks bellowing out blue and black clouds thoughout the whole world.

I'm looking forward to my next stop Taxco!  It's well known as a silver center for Mexico.. and I love silver!!