Dubrovnik Croatia

    

Nearing the end of my Croatian tour, can you believe I have another super tall guy to introduce.

And I just realized, they got taller the farther south I went in the country.   I didn't know this, but anonymous wrote on my last post that 5 NBA players in the USA come from Split Croatia!  Sorry, I like basketball, but I don't follow it and I appreciate the info.  I can certainly see why the Americans come after the tall Croatians for sure!  I've been just joking around, but is there research on the height issue, is it truly the water?

Anyway, meet Dino Radja.. another person passed on in the chain of great Croatians looking after me! Dino did play for the Boston Celtics for three seasons, so I was able to look up his height.. 6'11" or 2.11m.  Rakela wanted me to meet Dino, because he has offered a place for me to stay in Dubrovnik, my next stop about 265 km south.  It also turned out Dino had answered a question I posted on Horizons Unlimited ages ago, however it got lost in the shuffle after my computer died my first day in this country..  He reminded me and I found the message!  Both Rakela and Dino have BMW1200gs Adventure's, and they are heading over to good ol' USA to ride Route 66 in May this year.. ! So if you see two big Croatians riding middle America late spring 2011, give them a big wave!

I am laughing here because Dino's friend Josko, nickname Crazy Joe.. a keen Harley Rider, took a photo on the iphone and cut our heads right off..       

We met at the brand-spankin-new mall in Split on my way out of town so that we could organize getting a key to the property he's offered.

I was late leaving and saying goodbye to Anton, Marija and their little Paulina from Trogir this morning, so I didn't hang around long here.. It was after midday, and I wanted to ride the coastal road to Dubrovnik.

I've had enough of this weather, but honestly get entranced by the clouds and the colors quite often.. would enjoy it more if it wasn't so windy,  even though at first it really wasn't that bad. And, it might be 2012 before the rain stops around here, so I decided to ride south regardless.

The road is extra slippery from the limestone and the weather is gradually getting worse.. have a look below at that cloud bellowing over the mountain.. the wind is so strong at this point and it was freakin' scary to look at as I rode..

Dino and I discussed that I could jump on a new highway in Split and make it to Dubrovnik so much faster, but he thought I better not miss this popular ride.. I'd take scenic over boring rainy highway any day, but this time was a bad mistake.  265 km is not that far, but by time I was back on the road after 1:30 and it gets dark now around 4:30, could be a challenge ahead of me.  I don't have photos from this point.. the rain started bucketing.. and then it got dark.. add to that the wind,  a very slow ride and I was miserable!!

By grace only, I made it along that mountain/ocean road to Dubrovnik.. and to the house of the lady who has the key.  She is not home, even though I messaged her just 50 km from town and said I would be there soon.  She had decided she wanted to go out for a while?  She asks me to meet her at some gate.. I say, I'm sorry I've never been here before and I have no idea where the gate is she speaks of.  If she had an address I could punch into gps.. but she doesn't.  Then she sends another message, meet me at the Hilton Hotel!  Again, I have NO idea where the Hilton is in this town so can you give me an address?  She says no.. and it also didn't show up in my gps.  But I told her I would ask and find it.. I make my way through the rain and unfamiliar streets and found the Hilton!  She is not there!  I call her again, and she says, "Oh, I've come home now with my baby, can you come back here?!"  It was so frustrating, I was cold, tired, and not liking this chase the mouse game.  But I had no choice, I went back to her address and she finally gave me the key.

Dino had given me a printout and map of what building to look for, once I arrived.  First I need to walk through this gate..could have been where the lady was originally, but then there are a few gates around the city.

I was watching my drawing from Dino melt away from the rain drops and looking horribly lost, I'm walking  through this old town with my boots on and my helmet on holding a paper map while carrying my big wet bag.. quite the site I am sure! ;-)

When luckily, a most wonderful Croatian man stopped me and insisted on carrying my bags and helped me find the right door.. thank you..!

My Rukka riding suit and gloves keep me dry, thank goodness for that.. but I was so glad to get all the gear off and into layers of warm normal clothes.   And where the heck am I??  The street I walked on was so shiny and perfect, and this is the main street??

View from my window..

I had lots of questions that I will tackle tomorrow.. my main goal now is to lay everything out for it to dry and have a celebratory "I can't believe I made it!" drink, then off to bed.

This is a lovely little investment property for Dino, and being out of season, it was completely available. He refuses to accept payment for my stay here.. and I am so grateful.

I hadn't researched Dubrovnik, but normal for Europe,  I understood when he said I can not park on the street near the apartment.. but outside the old walls.  Anyway, I parked my bike here amongst the local scooters the night before..

I was quite worried through the night having it parked so far away from me.  But all is well. Since I arrived in the dark, might have a little look around this morning. Now I can get my bearings and things around me make more sense.

That's the walled old town Dubrovnik behind my bike.. I'm staying under one of those little orange roofs! It's like living in a fairytale, or I can call it  "my life in the museum.."

And a closer look at those still usable gates.  It's interesting to see all the things that survive after so many wars and changes in leadership over the last 14 or so CENTURIES.  There actually was quite a bit of damage from the Yugoslav war inside the town in 1991.  But from the Croatians I have talked about this subject.. all is in the past.  I really don't sense a rivalry or hatred toward the recent war.. more that it was stupid and time to move on.  I hope the countries around the world currently at war with each other can do the same.. soon.

It is such an enchanting old town to live in.  I can't believe the surprises and opportunities I get from this crazy journey. I honestly had no idea that Dino was sending me to live inside THIS MUCH of an amazing place!  Like Trogir, it's unreal to imagine you are living amongst the same walls and walking the same streets the people have done for hundreds of years.  So sturdy, they don't have road replacements and bricks like western world.  The steps here are smooth and worn where people most often step, but they are the same ones.. wow!

This is my door, the green one.

     

I am here for a few days.. the weather was horrendous and so bad that it was making top news.

This "no comment tv" video on Youtube is from ONE DAY before I arrive.  If I could I would even point out to you my building.  The boys had called before I left Split to make sure the water was down enough for me to get in. Because I don't watch t.v. here, I didn't know it was this bad until I saw this video. And I am amazed all this flood water was cleared out when I arrived the day after.. I even rode my bike over that broken road you see in the video!

Needless to say, I stayed put for a few days.. I cancelled my plans to continue on down to Greece merely because I am only struggling on the bike and not enjoying the trip through the rain.. and I am nearly due to go back to Italy for the housesitting in Tuscany.  So my decision is to stop here for now, where there is easy access to the ferry.. and I will pick up where I left off when I resume the journey in spring.

In the meantime, I have plenty more to show of Dubrovnik in the next post.  See you next time!

Croatia Mountain Ride

It's not sunny, but it's not raining either....Hallelujah! Let's Ride!!!!!!

It's Croatia in the Mountains today... whew hew!!  Meet Rakela, Ivan and you already met Anton, my host!

The day before this it was raining hard so I went into Split, just 20 km down the road to wander around the historic old city.  When I was walking on the street I see a big BMW1200 on the sidewalk with heaps of worldly stickers on it!  That bike has been places and where is it from?  I see the registration in Croatia, and I'm like.. hmph!  Then this tall man walks up to me and clearly his bike, I introduce myself.  He enthusiastically asks many questions of which I tell him I am staying with Anton.. He says, I know that guy!!  Why didn't he call me to tell me you are here??!!  "I don't know!!"  So he rings Anton straight away.. Anton apologizes for not putting out a Croatia wide post that Sherri Jo is in town, but we make a plan to ride together.  Cool!  

So this is the day we ride!

Good view of how curvy the roads are.. this is the same way it looks when riding along the coastal road, such tight twisty curves which usually stays right on the water.. which is cool,  but usually I don't have a bigger view of it like this.

I always feel good when all the bikes are together...  

Close by, Ivan (pronounced eevon, not eyevan) shows me amongst the hills these little war bunkers.  He points out a few of them within view.  One thing that is always a part of my experience ever since I have been anywhere in Europe is war history.  From Estonia to here.  All countries have it, it just seems to really stand out to me in these particular countries, probably because there is so much of it!  And of coarse here in Croatia, their last war was so recent in the 1990's.  But these bunkers are from WW2 if I remember correctly.

As we follow Ivan around, I remember thinking in my helmet that he is like a proper tour guide!  He stops the bikes and explains and shows things. What a nice guy!! I didn't realize it until later in the day when I asked, but Ivan is quite a tour guide... seriously!  I knew he was a good friend of Anton, and that he had a motorcycle shop near Split, but I'm slow.  I found he rents out motorcycles in the shop to tourists and can include Ivan as a tour guide if they choose! Here is his website if you might be interested in a motorcycle or any other holiday in croatia! http://www.visit-croatia.co.za  Highly recommend it, especially if you want to explore away from the mad tourist route!! 

So, our next stop is a water well.  He was pretty sure I had never seen how the villages get their water, and he was right.  That embankment is built for rain water to drain into the well, and the little house is where you'll find the bucket when you need some water.  Gee whiz, I have had it easy in my life!  Regardless of the work involved, the water is clear and beautiful.

Rakela, whom I just met yesterday, is on the phone.. He finishes and comes over to tell me that he has organized a newspaper and television interview for me in Split.. Man on the job!! Heck!  I can't imagine!  I feel a bit embarrassed and not particularly worthy of such interest... I'm just a girl on a bike, and not very good at it either...

Photos by: Anton

We ride through many little mountain villages.  With the gray clouds of winter and dead trees, it certainly adds to the character.

After a very fun morning both on road and off road, we pull up to this house.  Off the bikes and Ivan asks, "You all hungry?"  Well, actually, yes!  But where are we??

Ivan, being the ultimate explorer on a motorcycle had found this house a few months ago by accident.  He befriended the owner and knows he can whip up an excellent meal.  Without notice, we are hoping we score a good meal today too.

Yes!  He's home and there is plenty of trout in the pond!

The stream water flows into and out of his own little catchment.  With the net in one scoop, we have fresh fish.  On to the floor where they get a knock on the head.  (I couldn't watch or photo that part..)

And then moments later, dinner in hand!!! (So sorry little guys, but thank you...)

Next surprise, I think we are just going into his house, but this is more like a pub/restaurant.  We are in the middle of nowhere!  There is not a sign outside, I would have never thought to stop here if I was riding on my own.. and it's so cool!!!!!

He gives us a drink of his homemade brew... really strong, so I just had this tiny bit.  I don't drink while riding motorcycle, but in this case, it is special hand made and I don't want to offend...  Check out the walls!!!

 

The boys warming up by the fire... isn't it romantic!!?  ;-))  ha!

Food starts coming out, bread cheese and meat..

And then, the fish and potato!!  Oh dear, they were so alive moments ago, but they look darn tasty now...  finger lickin' goooood...

I'm still amazed at what a fun restaurant is out here.. They have really put a lot of work into creating such a treasure, but who would know it's here??  Understandly some of the locals would, but it's far off the beaten track and wouldn't be sustainable by any means.. But lucky for us, it was absolutely awesome..

Back on the bikes, and it has actually started raining again.. who cares, we are all so full and happy, and I didn't know it at the time, but Ivan has a lot more he wants to show us!

To be continued...