Showing posts with label Siberia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Siberia. Show all posts

Atacama desert to meet the Husaberg Adventure Team

The last two posts have been one long desert road over four days and all I can say is the next two days were the same.  I rarely pulled the camera out as I just wanted to get to Copiapo and didn't see the point of more sandy dusty shots.


I needed to take a photo (below) of the beachside home/shelter.  Of all things they don't have, what they do have is a satellite dish.  They must have a generator?  Otherwise how to get energy to use the thing? It would be a bummer to watch television via satellite while a loud generator is running outside the thin plastic walls. 


For whatever reason, graveyards are standing out to me along this road.  Again there are no towns or villages around, this graveyard is just out here.  By the looks of the shacks along the road, if there was a village close by at any point in time, it could have blown away in a strong wind.



After leaving Iquique Chile, my next stop was Antofagasta.


I packed a little sandwich and an apple from a fuel stop this morning while leaving Antofagasta.  I really liked this spot along the PanAm and knowing I will arrive Copiapo on schedule,  I took my time today to have a proper lunch.



Yet another interesting looking graveyard.  I was curious what the little fences represent (keep out, or simply decoration?).  Each country and culture has a different way.  I remember in Russia, I saw some graveyards in Siberia that had actual kitchen table and chairs set up. In Bulgaria, a lot of information and detail about the person on a fence post.  Lots and lots of color with fake flowers in Guatemala. This is the Atacama desert way in Chile.



My chain is very loose AGAIN.. Not happy about that, so you can imagine how relieved I was to reach my goal destination of Copiapo.  I arrived tonight and the boys are due to be here tomorrow with their three brand new Husabergs.

Finding a place to stay was a real pain.  The hotels are ridiculously expensive here.  It's not a tourist town AT ALL.  It's not even a nice town.  But it's location is in mining central.  I say mining central, because there are big mines up here, everywhere.

Every cheap hotel was booked up with miners.  There was no way I was going to pay a lot of money for the other somewhat available places.

Eventually, I found a little tiny room out the back of a hotel. It still cost me more than I expected, but it's only for one night and the next 2-4 weeks we will be camping on a mountain... for free!

Anyway, I took photos of where I am staying so I can email to them and they can have a visual to find me easily.


If it wasn't for all the 'noises' coming from the room next door, it was a cheap and comfortable place to stay once they finished.. and it took forever, for them to finish!! ;-///  Kevin and I were talking on skype most of this time (about 3 hours!), and he kept asking if I can still hear the noises, I said "YES!"  Tell me another story so I don't have to listen to them...  and he did.  Which was actually quite cool.  Since I left him in Lima, Kevin has taken up not only hang gliding lessons (even though he used to fly), but surfing lessons as well!  Gee whiz, he is using his time well while waiting on his parts to arrived from USA.  So I really did hear plenty of stories.


Now would be a good time to explain more thoroughly what I am doing here.  There are a lot of blog posts ahead of this one, so a tiny re-cap of who I am meeting.  Three guys who have a dream to achieve the world record of riding a motorcycle to the highest elevation.  Walter Colebatch, Lukas Matzinger and Barton Churchill.  They call themselves the Husaberg Adventure Team and this particular project is called Andes Moto Extreme.  www.andesmotoextreme.com

Walter is a world class moto-adventurer extraordinaire.. ;-) I rode through Russia and the Road of Bones with him at the beginning of my journey in 2010.  He pretty much taught me everything I needed to know for adventure motorcycling.  With lots of advice online while I was choosing a bike, gear, etc, to actually teaching me how to ride on dirt/gravel/sand and through rivers once we met up in Russia.

I saw Walter again in Holland (where he organized a big change with my suspension at Hyperpro, whom spent 2 days reconfiguring my bike and didn't charge me a thing).  And then I saw him again at the Horizons Unlimited meeting in Ripley, England.  When I said my last good bye, he said, "You never know SJ, I'm sure we'll run into each again somewhere in the world.  Maybe see you in South America!"  I didn't ask details at the time as I rode away.  I just remember thinking... stalker... Ha! ;-))  I had no idea at the time, that this new adventure was on the burner.

Barton I met in Russia along with Walter for one day only.  He was traveling in the opposite direction, however, he had met Walter at Lukas's house in Austria a few months prior.  Barton is a mountaineer and will be advising the team about many things (how to survive in particular) at a high altitude with minimum oxygen and temperatures.

Lukas I have never met before, but looking forward to.  He is the 'technical advisor' for the team, knowing the in's and out's of bike mechanics and particularly what is necessary for the bikes to run at the high elevation.

I'm the 'helper'.  When they were telling me of their ideas and plans for the world record months ago, and knowing I would be on the same continent at the same time they would be, I offered to help.  They immediately said yes!  I'm basically here to look after them, cook, drive the support vehicle, photos, etc, while they concentrate on the job.

So I got online and in touch with Walter and Barton via skype in Santiago.  They haven't even left yet! Go figure. Always the case.. I worried and worried I wouldn't get here on time, but still glad I did since that chain is really bad.

They have a new plan of riding only to La Serena today, about 475 km.  They suggest I ride down to meet them there instead.  Bugger!  I thought I was finished!  For me is only a 365 km ride.  But Walter said that no matter how many times I tighten the chain, when it's f'd, it's f'd and I need a new one.  I can do it, but I hope my chain will make it one more day.  I left really early the next morning, the chain slapped along the way, I was overloading on worry, but I arrived KTM.. well ahead of the boys again.  The good news, they can put a new chain on for me.  The bad news, is that they are closing for 2 hours of lunch and I need to wait outside the gate.


I waited.. and waited.. until I saw these two little blue matching bikes and matching riding gear, and I knew it was them.. I waved them in! Walter had the 3rd bike in the back of a rental truck (the one I will be driving) alon with loads of gear.


So here we are.. my first photo of the Husaberg Adventure Team and one Sherri Jo Wilkins.  Feeling very honored to be here with them already!


There is a heck of a lot of work to do.  The boys are preparing the bikes, and the manager of the KTM/Husaberg shop is allowing them to use his workshop.

And for me, it's a bit like Christmas.  For one, the boys got several sponsors on board their project.  And some of them included me.  It couldn't be better timing, but they gave me a new set of earphones, so I can listen to music inside my helmet again! These are bullett earphones from a company called Munitio http://www.munitio.com/.

Gee whiz, can you imagine, my current earphones failed on my first day out of Lima.  So all this way has been in silence.. in the desert.  If I only could hear music while traveling for 6 days through the Atacama desert, what a help that would have been. Oh well, I can't be more grateful now!

I very much needed a pair of water proof boots to be living on a mountain/volcanoe for the next few weeks.  I bought them and sent to Barton who brought them to Chile along with his gear.  I love new shoes, and these are awesome yellow boots!   And then he also rented a big down jacket and sleeping bag for extra warmth and brought them all the way from America.  It's hot here in La Serena, but I was excited to try it all on.


We stayed and worked until the shop closed down for the evening.  The manager of the shop showed us a nice place to stay near the beach as well as a top restaurant.  We went all out for our first night! It was so wonderful to have my friends

I tried salmon ceviche for the first time.  It was divine!  Kevin actually introduced me to ceviche in Costa Rica.  I never had it before, I couldn't tell you which fish it was, but it was very nice.  However, this one with salmon is even better.  Loved it!


We are in a super fancy restaurant, and I don't have nice clothes.  The boys were hungry and they didn't even give me time to do my hair before we left. Luckily, this is the last photo of the evening.


The boys introduced me to 'Pisco'... Pisco Sour to be exact.  I had one small one with Kevin when we arrived Peru.  He told me a little about it.  It was a good drink, but it was small, only one and it didn't do much for me or give me the impression that it would. Very sweet and sour.

Here in this restaurant, the pisco was really good as well. The Chilean Pisco is a bit different to the Peruvian Pisco.  And they just kept coming!  Who's ordering these?!  None of them confessed, but the drinks didn't seem very strong.  Unfortunately, they were very strong, and I got down right drunk.  So drunk I threw up all over Barton's shoes and decided to sleep on the sidewalk outside our room. One of them eventually found me and brought me in. Well?  Embarrassed... won't do that again.

On that note.. Let the world record adventure begin! ;-)

Krasnoyarsk to Novosibirsk Russia

I stayed in Indiana for 2 weeks, knowing all the while I was on the edge of the season for Siberia and needed to get a move on before the winter sets in.  At this stage I'm only about 1/2 way across this large country.  I fly back into Krasnoyarsk, where my wonderful Russian helpers are waiting.  The following photos were taken on September 1 before I flew home.

This is Dima, who organized so many things for me in Russian (the travel agent for my flight to America, accommodation at the Gostinitsa (guesthouse), tour around his city).  And his daughter Anastasia who was trying out for an English speaking team the following day, so we walked together and took the opportunity to practice English.  She didn't really need much practice and at 14, she said she wished she had started learning the language much earlier in first grade.


It was an unusually warm end of summer day, many people were commenting on it.

 September 1 is the first day of school in Russia.


 My little guesthouse on water...


So!  Upon my return from America and not sleeping at all for the last 2 days, I got my bike so generously stored at the mechanic shop... packed up and made a run to my next destination Novosibirsk.

With over 800 km to accomplish I did not stop along the way for photos.  And there wasn't much need to, just a highway with lots of trucks.  Among many things, Dima also organized for me to meet his friend Alex or Oleg in Novosibirsk who will guide me into the large city.  I had sent a text around 10 pm that I was about 50 km from town, and I had a general idea even in Russian the little suburb to watch out for whoever I was to meet (Alex or Oleg?)  Because my phone credit was up, and hoped for the best.

Luckily in the dark a motorcycle passed me the opposite direction.  You don't see many motorcycles out late at night around here, so I thought it might be a clue.  Sure enough, he turned around and I stopped.  With little English he said "follow me.. please".  No worries!

On the way into town, we met with 2 other bikers who were waiting in the cold dark night for me.. guilt.. guilt..  I love these guys, but can't believe they waited there so long!

So the 4 of us rode into Novosibirsk around 11 pm..  After over 800 km, and severe jet lag, no sleep and only one bowl of soup (borscht - my favorite especially from a roadside cafe!) in my stomach all day, I just wanted to find a bed!!  But they wanted to give me the grand tour of city.  That was so nice of them and they waited so long, I was not about to say otherwise.

Finally we got to a concrete building, a man comes out says nothing, gets on the back of another mans bike and we go to a garage.  I was wondering how concerned I should be, but I was too tired to care.

They directed me to park my bike in the garage.  Clearly this is not a hotel or gostinitsa..!  I grab my gear and back onto the other's bikes we are driven back to Mark's place.

I was taken inside, it's around 1 AM!! A couch had already been made into a bed for me, they fed me a large bowl of soup and a cup of tea.  Thank you thank you thank you!!! I am so blessed and you must be tired of hearing it by now, but at least you know the entire Russian country is full of wonderfully good people!!

I had NO IDEA what to expect, there is little communication, but this is just what happens!  Who is this man I am staying with?? He didn't even have a motorcycle!! (turns out he does, he just wasn't riding that night, but I didn't know it then)

So I post this on Facebook, and after me being in America and Walter traveling through Mongolia, I get a message from him that he has just arrived Novosibirsk himself! Same day - that's amazing.. I had no idea about that either!

We found the time to meet, have a meal and a beer, and since he had just recently travelled through Mongolia, he took the time to update my waypoints for my GPS.  (thank goodness, I am so grateful especially now, which I will go into on my Mongolia blog) Walter may not officially be Russian, but he might as well be he is here so much.. hence, he gets the "Russian Good People" credit too...I am one lucky motoadventurer!! Plus it was just good to catch up with my friend..

Next morning, Walter was traveling west, and I was on my way down to Mongolia, about 1000 km south of Novosibirsk.

Sorry... such a whirlwind couple of weeks, I am just running around, living life and trying to get back into the swing of things in Russia and wasn't into taking photos.. There are plenty of photos coming in the next blog, I will make up for it!  ;-)
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UST KUT TO LAKE BAIKAL

I could have stayed on the barge for more than 4 days.. the time went by so quickly for me.  I had an opportunity to catch up on my blogs, sort through photos.. I was working full time..

There was only an opportunity for short little breaks and some quick photos on board, but then I was back to work.  I knew it best to take advantage of this time, because once off the boat it’s going to be busy again.. Imagine 4 days worth of work and I still didn’t get caught up..  


After Ust Kut, we had quite a ride to get to Zhingalovo where Walter had planned to meet up with some guys he had been talking to on the internet.  The road was ridiculously rocky – big large pointy boulders.  I bet we passed 10 cars on this track with fresh broken wheels and axles.  And I think when I pass them it’s amazing my bike isn’t breaking because it is taking such a beating.. and then I think my body is actually taking on a lot of this, no wonder everything hurts.  My hands especially, they still loose blood with the jarring of the grips into my palms, it is sheer pain – ALL DAY LONG..  this must be my day to whinge.  Sorry, that'll happen from time to time!

Even Walter is riding slow, I am riding right behind him most of the day and that never happens!


We eventually make it to Zhingavolo where his friends are holed up doing bike repairs on guess what – their sub frames!  Not the same bolt problem I have though, different models.  Barton from Montana riding a KTM 640 Adventure, and brothers Paul and Dean from ADELAIDE!! Who ride KTM 950’s Limited Edition… Big bikes!   They are like a Sherri Jo combo in human form – American/Australian! With much more talent and experience… maybe someday for me..


These boys still need to make it to Magadan where we were 4 weeks ago.. and it’s getting cold already, so no time to spare.. We all leave the next morning bright and early.  But it was great fun to meet them and hear of their experiences so far.

You never know what a day brings, but this is a beautiful scenic ride!  The road is much better and for once I actually sat for quite a while riding slowly so I can take it in.



Walter had told me that today would be easy..  Yesterday, as rocky and horrible as those roads were turned out to be my last full day of dirt road riding since Russia began over 4000 km ago!

Bittersweet… I am so ready to get off these difficult roads, however I know if I hadn’t travelled them I would not have been able to experience Magadan region and Yakutia region at all.. these are places very few foreigners go, and that is hard to find in this day and age.  I know it will most likely be the highlight of my world tour.. but I, nor my body, will miss those bad roads much.. ;-)

So today I took it easy, enjoyed the view, didn’t worry about keeping up with Walter so much as I knew up ahead would be pavement.

And we did it!  I see Walter stopped up ahead, he pulls me over.. and announces I have completed my dirt road adventures..  We can now enjoy 210 km on bitumen!  And enjoy it I did!!  For a long time, but can you believe my butt started to hurt after sitting on the seat so long!  Can I complain – no way! (well technically I just did..)

Our next destination is a special place, Lake Baikal.  I have to go back on dirt roads again here, but he says for only 40 km.. (turned out to be more, and they were evil slippery gravel and rocky roads that banged the heck out of my still very sore palms)

But once I got here, I can see what the fuss is about..


We are on an island in this massive ancient deep lake.  So large it holds 20% of the worlds fresh water.  Also, 80% !! of the species here are found nowhere else in the world.  A very special place.

It is a favorite travel desination for Russia and there are many visitors here.  We find our accommodation and I am very happy to settle in and explore.

Another surprise of the new region I am in, is a new people with a different culture.  We are close to Mongolia, so they are either of Mongolian decent or a mix thereof.

On the island, they practice a more shamanic belief system.. The colored ribbons are everywhere.  I love it!

14 degrees C out there which is winter for Adelaide, but warm for Lake Baikal!  These Russians are certainly enjoying their holiday!


Back at the homestead, we both dig into some bike repairs as a result of the rotten roads..  I fixed my mirrors, but my gps is buggered.. and I really need that working shortly to find my way across Russia and Mongolia on my own!


Seems to be a short somewhere, nothing we can do about it at the moment.  I decide to have a walk around town, and Walter decides to take the small tracks around the island.

Gorgeous place to live and certainly a lot of new construction – this place is booming!



Quiet town, I could certainly hear a certain bike I know coming…!




Show off… 



I was thinking I could go for one of these Russian bikes with a side car for the remainder of my trip..





Later on, Walter comes back from hooning around the island as he puts it, we have dinner and take advantage of a sunset photo opportunity.





These 2 girls walk past curious about the “Motorciccle”




Well that's your little tour around the famous Lake Baikal.

Special thanks to Walter for all the amazing fantastic photos he took today and every day we were traveling..  It is a real privilege to not only ride and learn from him, but also to have so many photos that I would never have gotten on my own.  He is a superhuman on a motorcycle and a great photographer.  Thank you my friend - enjoy Mongolia and the freedom to ride as fast and far as you want!

From Lake Baikal turn off, only 120 km in to Irkutsk, where we officially finish Sibirsky Extreme, and I head out on my own again.


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