Back to sea level - From Ojos to Bahia Inglesa Chile

From Camp Atacama we ride back to Camp Murray. This time I get to travel the river bed on four wheels which is super fun and very different from my wild ride a few days ago on the Husaberg! I never seem to get photos in the really difficult parts as I'm holding on with both hands.  So looking at these photos, it looks a whole lot easier than it really was.. but trust me!  Quite the experience!

I like going really fast in the rubble...  I hope the truck rental company doesn't mind.. ;-)))

Extra fun, especially since we have very little fuel and water left, the truck weighs so much less! I try to keep the wheels just to the side of the old tracks for a little better fresh grip.

I see Camp Murray, nearly there.

Back to our little home, to pack up the remaining gear.  The guys spend the rest of the day changing tires back from knobbies to street tires for the ride back to paved roads.

And the next morning.. we are officially out of here! We take a different route back to Copiapo than the one we rode to get here.  They calculated the amount of fuel needed for the motorcycles well, but not the truck.  Even after scoring some diesel from the road workers the other day, there is nowhere near enough fuel to get back to town.  We decided to head toward the Argentinian border in hopes of finding something or somebody along that route for fuel.

Even though we were not leaving Chile the lady at the border post said there is no fuel here.  But she pointed to a mining post, maybe they could sell us some fuel.  All the boys said, you have to do it alone SJ...  "Why?"  Because you are a girl and you are blonde.  If we have any chance for fuel, it's you.  Urgh!

So I drive into the mining post alone.  Went to the office, spoke in my spanish and the men were amazed, but the control guy kept telling me, they don't sell fuel here.  I understand, but anybody I can get something from?  Any work trucks, anything?  No, no, no...  so much for that blonde thing!  Until the big boss man who must have been listening in, came out of his office.

He asked how much fuel do I have.  I said EMPTY.  He took my keys out of my hands and went into the driver side of the truck, turned it on and saw the gage go nowhere.  EMPTY, he said!  Duh.. maybe blonde, but I wasn't lyin! ;-)

He ordered the guys who were telling me no, to get me some fuel.. Ha!  Nany nany boo boo.... ;-)))

I liked the boss man...

With a few high fives from the world record holders, we are back on the road with plenty of fuel to get me to Copiapo.  Woo hoo!

Not long after, it's the boys turn to refill their bikes from my stash in the truck.

I grabbed the camera a bit late, but this was the first tree, the first bit of green I have seen in nearly two weeks! The little things we take for granted! ;-)

I'm glad we came back a different way.  What a gorgeous road this is! Too bad the sun is too low to enjoy the full colors.

We arrived Copiapo in the dark.  All those meals we have been dreaming about, in my experience from this town, is not going to happen.  But we did pass a pizza place.  And voted to stop. Our first meal...... bread... cheese.. so many things we have been missing we have right here on a sidewalk in Copiapo with heaps of trucks passing by.  But it was good and we ate every bit of two very large pizzas!

The goal was to go past Copiapo about 75 km to the next town, Bahia Inglesa.  Unlike the dreadful boring mining town of Copiapo, Bahia is on the ocean and even a bit touristy.  We liked the idea of being at Camp Murray 4,527m (14,852 ft) just a few hours ago, and return this quick to sleep tonight at sea level.. Yes!  My dreams of being able to breathe again are coming true!

It was most difficult to find a place to stay in Bahia Inglesa, but we did it, and I even got my own little room/closet.  Too happy!

I could definitely breathe better, that was a nice feeling.  However, my heart is still beating super fast.  I was hoping that would stop as soon as we reached sea level as well, but it didn't want to and kept racing away, which was a worry.

The next day was a rest day in an ocean side town that will be full of eating, drinking, being merry, and internet!!!  We NEED internet.....

Armed with computer bags, we go in search of... WIFI...............

Score!  Beers are flowing!  Three Macbooks are on over drive, except for the one person who still uses Windows.. we hope he will eventually see the light.. ;-)))

Lots of messages going out to family, friends, and facebook... everyone addicted to facebook.

More imporantly, where is Kevin? I saw he put a "I knew you could do it" on my facebook world record photo. I was happy to know he could see our progress.  Did he get the Buell fixed? How far away is he?  Aha!  So good to connect with him on skype.  He said, "I knew you could do it again, really proud of you.."  in his Scottish accent.

He did finally get his bike repairs done in Lima Peru, and had just left Cusco and crossed the border to Bolivia at Copacabana.  It's been a long process getting his bike running again and he's still a long way off.  And what a story he had.  He got to the border of Peru and Bolivia where the belt on his bike broke and he had to PUSH it over the border.  Dag gone, he has more bad luck with that bike.. what a bummer.  But he had a spare belt and got it fixed straight away in the dark. Okay then! He suggested I get back on my bike and ride up to meet him, a mere 4000 km north !!?? Not sure yet Kevin.  I explained to him about my heart worrying me, and of course I don't have my own bike yet.  It was just really nice to be connected again.

So we had our full day of alcohol, food and internet.  The next morning we ride back to La Serena, Chile to the KTM shop where my bike has been waiting for me.  The mechanics there were giving it a once over while I was away to see if anything needs to be fixed or replaced other than the chain.  The guys suggested this because I have over 95,000 km on it and they insist there has to be something that needs attention.  I am looking forward to having my bike back.  I've enjoyed the truck, a nice change, but following these guys without my own motorcycle makes me jealous.

Leaving the desert along the Chilean coast and the return of even more greenery the farther south we go.

We arrived the shop and learn that the only attention me ol' bike needed was a piston.  Little bits and pieces here and there but mainly the piston.  Lukas, Barton and Walter were amazed, they said that is really good with 95,000 km!

We started the bike up in the showroom, and it was great to be reunited, but it didn't sound normal to me.  All the guys, the mechanics and the manager standing around, I said again.  "Are you sure everything is okay, it sounds so different!"  They all convinced me that I have been running on an old engine so long I forget what it used to sound like.  Okay then...

At the time, we thought we'd just load my bike up on the truck and I would finish driving the truck back to Santiago.

However, the shop manager was needing to drive his own big shop truck down to Santiago and offered to carry the Husabergs for them.  Walter and Lukas took up the offer.

Barton and I opted to ride our motorcycles to Santiago.. why not?  I was looking forward to riding again.

Once they were gone and I finished putting my panniers back on, repacking my own gear etc.  I started up the bike again.  "Barton, my bike does not sound right."  Again SJ, you haven't heard it for a while and with a new piston, it's bound to sound different until it breaks in. "Okay then.."  Who am I to argue.  These guys are all mechanics, I am not.

We got about 2 stop lights away.  I don't want to sound like a tape recorder, but "Barton, are you really sure, it sounds horrible if you ask me?"

Two more kilometers into La Serena and at a stop light, the side of my bike blew out and oil went spewing straight out near my right leg.  For F____ Sake!  I turned the bike off as soon as I could and pushed it up on the curb to get out of everyones way.  Gee whiz, what the heck was that!?

The case around the oil filter blew off and took the METAL with it!

OK, do you believe me now that the bike doesn't sound right?? ;-/ Barton went and got the shop guys to come and pick up my bike. They tried to weld the piece but it's an aluminum alloy and won't hold.  I saw another bashed up KTM 690 in the shop that is used as a rental and I asked the manager to call the owner of that bike to see if I can buy his casing and have a brand new one sent to him.  He agreed, thank goodness!  So, they quickly did the change, put oil back in the bike so Barton and I can make it to Santiago.  For such a big drama, pretty good to be back on the road so quick and it was a Sherri Jo idea.. even more surprising!

I started the bike and I hate to say it, but it still sounds like sh___.  Other than tell the mechanics to take the entire thing apart into pieces while they convince me I am crazy, there is nothing I can do about it.  So we go.

To be continued....

Riding from Copiapo to Tres Cruces - First camp for acclimatization with the Husaberg Adventure Team

After spending one night in Copiapo, and while the boys were paying their fees for parks and permits, I did an ice cream run.  It is so hot, and the ice cream shop was a surprisingly good find.  Seriously... it was impossible to find a decent meal for lunch or dinner.  Not a green vegetable in town. But good ice cream will suffice!  So good they sent me back for a second set of ice cream cones.

We are still in the Atacama Desert, a desert which hasn't seen rain in many parts for over 400 years.  We'll be leaving town heading east toward the border of Argentina.

The road was a smooth pave for a while and then it started to get a bit rough, albeit paved.

Following the boys there is one that stands out.  There is music going on in his helmet and he is bopping the head while playing air guitar so hard, I swear he's going to loose the bike.  That would be Walter.  I recognize the head bop from our days riding together in Russia.. But the gigantic air guitar and even drums sometimes is a new addition.  I hope that little video camera they attached to the hood of my truck catches some of that.

About 120 km down the road and with only 8 litres of gas on each bike, it's not long before the first fuel stop. When there are no fuel stations around, Sherri Jo's truck becomes the fuel stop! I think I could use a support vehicle on the rest of my journey, they are so handy! ;-)))

I'm letting the boys refuel themselves American style.  Self-service. ;-)  Some support vehicle I am!!

It's so weird being on 4 wheels instead of 2.  Especially when my friends around me are still on 2.  I have to admit I get a bit jealous. However.. I am LOVING the air conditioner and radio.  Change is good sometimes.

It's only when I get close to them that I can take photos.  As mentioned, on the take off, the truck is so incredibly slow.  I do take it at high speed in 4th and 5th. Not to be rough on it, but the contrary.  It nearly glides over the ridges and bumps of this rough road at a higher speed even while being totally weighted down. I didn't expect that.  I would have expected it to break to pieces.  And it is better to know that they are well ahead of me and out of my way.  I'm trying to take care of it as much as I can. It is a rental truck.. There are no other roads out here to miss a turn and I'll see them the next time they need something.

Well, actually there is a turn off.  The first one I've seen and it was already known as an option from their planning. The boys pulled over to make a decision as well as make sure I saw which way they would go (I do not have a gps).  The right turn means we have far less kilometers, but it's a dirt track and a pretty rough one from what they can tell from google earth.  The decision is not so much for them.. they are on the best bikes for the roughest road you can come up with.  The decision is whether I can make it up hill in sand and rubble with God knows how much weight in gear, water and fuel.  The other route is longer but a lot of it continues to be paved.  Not like good paved, but at least a bit more solid than sand.

There was no question really.  As much as we want to make the 'smart' decision, boys will be boys. They are so excited to get into the dirt.  We'll tackle the truck issues when and if they arrive.  I'm personally not fussed one way or the other.  If there is anything I know, these are the guys you want around no matter what happens and I have nothing to worry about.

Dag gone it, it's still somewhat paved.. what will they do?

This is what they did, and I was laughing so hard in the truck when I saw it.

The road did turn to gravel shortly after, but I was glad to see them getting some of their off road motorcycling steam out of their system.  But keep in mind, they have to accomplish a world record shortly with these bikes, so try not to break anything?

These guys are dressed like identical triplets on three completely identical bikes, and I haven't got my head around being able to tell who is who unless they actually speak to me.  However on this stop I paid closer attention.  Just like true identical triplets, there is always one little thing that helps you know which one you are talking to. There are two things they wear that are not identical.  Boots and goggles.  While listening to them I noticed that Lukas has orange goggles (he is Austrian and they are his ski goggles)  And Barton had recently bought these super good looking and expensive Oakley goggles.  I thought they were so good looking I would consider changing my helmet out so I could wear these same kind of Oakley goggles someday.  Oh well.  I looked down at their boots and I noticed out of the three, Lukas wears white boots. The others have black.  So I can only tell who I see from a distance by boots or air guitar.  Up close I determine by goggles.

The sun is getting a bit low.  I couldn't believe there are people living out here. It surprised me so much that I wanted to take a photo of it.  We are so far from town now. 

While I've got the truck stopped for a moment, I like to do a quick walk around and see if the tie downs are tight, or even worse, to see if I've lost anything yet.

Coming up over a ridge the boys are stopped.  No doubt why!  Look at the view! Who is coming to my truck window? Who is that???? C'mon, I thought you sorted that out! Ah, Walter.. paying attention now to his red zebra-like goggles.  I was only with Lukas and Barton last time I studied goggles.

He wanted to take a photo.  For freaks' sake!  Who turned the cold air on!  I know we've come up hill a bit over the last hour or so, but we just went from summer to winter.  We had ice cream at lunch, and now I'm scrambling for anything warm I can find.

Anyway, check out our VIEW.......

Walter got a photo of me.. freezing..

I got a photo of Lukas which I think should be entered into the Husaberg Adventure Team calendar..Ha! What a look!

Back into the truck and Walter holds back and points out to me that the lake in the distance is our goal destination for the night.  Perfect timing.  I'd like to set up camp before the sun goes completely down.  But I have to admit, this is one of THE prettiest places I have EVER been on the planet.  Breathtaking.

Walter got a shot of me driving away..

And this would be Bartons photo of us arriving camp a few minutes later.

This planned stop and goal is to stay here in Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces, which is 3700 meters (12,140 feet) above sea level for a couple days as part of the acclimatization process.  We will move up slowly to 2 more camps each higher in elevation before they will be able to begin the world record attempt later.  For now.. just soaking up the beauty of being in the middle of "nowhere".  I don't want to say nowhere, it is somewhere really cool...  Ciao!