Mongolia part 3

I finally make my way to a planned village, Tsengel. I was really hoping to find some food.. It was around 2:30, so I was a bit hungry.

I went into the café, and I saw what they were eating, and it just wasn’t going to work for me this time… some culture food works and some don’t! There is only one choice in this cafe.. boiled minced meat wrapped in a little dumpling is the best way I can describe it. I'm not sure what the meat is but the smell is mostly what put me off.

So I decided to try the supermarket. 

Do I pull in next to the horses? I thought not to scare them I’ll stop here.

Takes no time at all and my bike is surrounded. I was getting a bit used to understanding Russian language, but I am at a total loss of what these men are saying. They are a bit more forward here too, they want to touch and pull on everything!!

I quickly ran into the supermarket (after a man helped me find a lady to unlock the door), and as soon as I saw it, was quite a let down. I find it has no food, except cookies, candy and soda. Not what I wanted for lunch. Best I could come up with was a small bottle of Aloe Vera drink. Was very good, but not fulfilling. I do have my candy bar, so that with the drink will have to do today.

Kids just got out of school, and come for a look as well! So many people surrounding me and the bike, it was starting to get a bit tense. So I pull them out in the street to take a photo. Such rosy cheeks!

Watch out for the traffic kids!

I take my juice and bar out of town..

I pass this little settlement, and loved that not only do they have a satellite dish , but 2 lots of solar power.. cool!

And I might add, although I didn’t get a picture of it, I was riding past a group of yurts that were surrounded by an old rickety stone fence. I saw someone standing on the stone and assume they were looking over of herd of goats across the path I was riding. But when I passed this person it was a woman standing high on the fence for best reception as she talked on her mobile phone!

Okay.. it’s an interesting mix. I see women on horses ride to a creek for a wash, really primitive looking homes… yet connected to the world with satellite dishes and mobile phones.

Looks like a peaceful existence regardless. But it’s getting late, very cold and windy.

From here on I pick up the pace. I get to a place where the tracks are going every which way really bad again.. I am trying so hard to follow the gps, but it’s going straight up and over that large hill!! With no track!

Dirt looks a bit soft, I think I’ll stick to the track and hope for the best. After a couple kilmometers, the waypoint track was completely gone off my gps. I am way off track. But I can’t be!! The track clearly doesn’t go over that hill.

The one thing I know is that I am heading east. This means I will eventually meet up with the main road I originally took into Olgiy.

And sure enough, just as I was about to ride up to a single yurt to see if I can manage to ask to confirm direction, I see a car heading south in the distance. That must be the main road. Yay!! I was so happy when I got there.

I made it through that crazy dirt track, nearly fell over how ever many times. 2 water crossings, no food… wasn’t going to do it, but I did and I’m out!!

I am so glad I didn’t talk myself out of it. It was such a unique and beautiful place to ride through. And I am actually quite proud of myself!

Now back on the main road, it’s time to get knocked around for a while with the nastiest ridges they could come up with.. but my goal is to see if I can get to the border before they close.. If not, there a few houses around it I was hoping I could camp next to as a 2nd option.

I rode to the border.. they all knew me from a couple days before and waved me through. Hallelujah! I can go back to Russia – and eat Russian food! (Not to take away that I had the most amazing experience in Mongolia, but I do prefer my Russian meals.. ;-)

Now I need to ride to the first Russian gate.

Have a look beyond the gate.. paved road.. mmm I love it..!

Even though it was a nice change to have those dirt road challenges again.. kinda.

Need to ride another 20 km to the official border crossing for immigration etc. 

It was hilarious as I pulled in. It was 4:30 when I pulled in to the Mongolia border and got stamped out., probably 20 minutes later? I remember wondering, if I have to ride that many kilometres to the Russian border, would they be closed? Surely that won’t leave me locked in here between gates all night. Do they communicate with each other? But then I thought, I do have my tent.. that would actually be kind of fun! I’d be completely safe.. !

But the Russians were waiting on me. It was hilarious. They all had their overcoats on and briefcases at the door. Would have been worth a picture, but I don’t think they would have been happy for me to take the extra time.

I must add they were all completely thorough on their job even though they wanted to go home.

I think it was about 6 pm, by time we all got finished.. The last man at the little green building was standing in the road after I got out of the border gate, to bring me back in his office for my immigration stamp. He points to his watch. ‘Home… dinner!!”

I said I know, I am sorry! He smiled and stamped me in.. and then shooed me out the door!

I rode straight up to my little wooden yurt man and he was so happy to see me… however he was busy at the house next door, helping a woman deliver a baby.

So I unpacked.. no banya tonight.. Magazine was closed so I didn’t even get ramen noodles. I will have to be happy with that one candy bar and aloe vera drink I had at 2:30.

It was a tiring day.. I layed out my sleeping bag once again and went to sleep.

Mongolia Trail Ride - part 2

 Sunrise in Olgii Mongolia

I didn’t get much sleep that night in my little guesthouse. It was certainly quiet enough around there!


But what kept me awake was the thought that tomorrow I ride through rough dirt tracks by myself. What if I have to cross water, and I fall over. How will I pick the bike up.. Or what if I fall over anywhere for that matter? Will it be too sandy? There’s no traffic out there, will I have enough food if I get stuck? I thought of a million reasons why I can’t do this alone.. tossing and turning, it’s stupid. If I get into trouble, that is exactly what anybody else would say.. “Sherri, that was a really stupid thing to do alone”. My argument with myself on the other hand was.. But this is “Sherri Jo’s BECAUSE I CAN World tour”!!! Of coarse I can do it! Most of this trip has been full of things I don't think I can do, but I manage to do it anyway! But it’s too scary.. but what if it’s not… are you going to be a coward and miss out on one of the main reasons for being in this part of the world??


What finally allowed me to go to sleep was 2 ideas 1) What if I found a tour guide in town in the morning and paid him/her to follow me (silly for sure, but I am trying any idea at this point) OR 2) Maybe I can just try part of the track, and if it’s too much, then I can always turn around and come back. Okay, that did it, I slept until 3 or 4 AM.. then woke up worrying again. Got my head torch out and found my way to the little outside hole in the ground (toilet). Built just barely high enough too..

The track Walter mapped out for me was about 220 kilometers. Not a big trip on a road, but a long day if it’s a bit rough.


So I packed up at first light and went into town.

I was hoping to find a shop open to get some food. The only thing I have is 1 candy bar. It was too early, no shops open and I’m not willing to wait over an hour for them. So I head out on my own, with 1 candy bar. I can see it now, just like in the movies.. Woman is lost in Mongolia and survives for 40 days on a candy bar. Ha!


It really was another stupid thing to do, to go out there with no food.. but I’m good at making bad decisions, and took my bike to the beginning of the dirt track and stopped. Then I go.. and it’s not too bad. So I go a bit farther, and it’s down right gorgeous! (the landscape, not the track)

I get sucked in further and further and it’s just so pretty I forget my worries.

Okay, this track is much easier than I imagined it to be.


I can’t help but to stop and take photos. I have to be careful though if I am to get through this day in time. Would not be nice to be caught out here in the dark and it’s getting dark quite early now.
Good! There is some traffic!! Horses, camels, doesn’t matter to me. It just feels better knowing that there are people out here.. just in case! In my imagination, I had convinced myself that I would be the only person out there. Logically? Silly, but those were my fears making up stories.

(These were women riders going to the creek for a wash or bath). Didn’t even try to be rude enough to ask for a photo when I got close to them. But imagine if that was your lifestyle. Grab the girls, get on a horse and ride to the nearest running water for a clean. Plus that water would be soooo cold! I claim to be a fan of modern plumbing, however I do respect seeing how other people live first hand. This is why I travel around the world. (well one of the reasons)

And then! I came across this guy! Heck, there are plenty of people out here. I spent hours worrying about nothing.

I’m sure they have long days out there with a herd of goats, but I think it’s cool to be able to spend your day with your best mates... an Eagle and your horse. Would be complete for me if he had a dog too…

How do I manage to arrive at the exact part of the road where the cows are crossing, no matter which country I am in! Okay these are the most beautiful cows I have ever seen..Yaks! Was just reading on internet that most Yaks are crossbred with cows..either way, they are very good looking.

Of coarse it's a majestic landscape, but these animals add to that element so much. To watch them slowly walk across the road with that gorgeous fur swaying in the wind.. just beautiful!
I’m seeing it all today!!

Shonky self photo - it's a blogging rule to put in the worst one you can find from time to time ;-)

I’m nearly half way now. Clouds are getting thicker and the cold wind has picked up.. I wonder if it might snow?! Better get a move on..

Mongolia

WELCOME TO MONGOLIA!

This is actually one of the first photos I took in the country.  It's only 80 km from the border to my destination of Olgiy.  Such an amazing change of landscape, I can see the magical mystical draw it has on people.

The beginning of the journey was a typical extremely rigidy road as they are when they have a fair amount of "traffic".  It then turned into little tracks going every which way.. Which one do I follow!?  Tried to keep my eye on the GPS, but it's difficult while standing up and negotiating the changing road.

They were doing road construction can you believe, with absolutely no way to pass and not a single sign as to where to detour.  The few cars (about 4) that came through the border with me this morning were all trying different tracks.  Luckily a young Mongolian boy on a motorcycle came racing up to me on his bike and showed me the way (through a creek!) This put me ahead of the pack - yay!

So, if you can find your way,  the main "highway" has character!

Not much traffic to worry about, so I couldn't help but to get off the bike and take a good look around.  I'm a bit cocky saying that, because after I was shown the way, I was whizzing through on the motorcycle, where the cars behind were needing to go slow with the deep ruts in the road and struggling.

My imagination running wild, I'm also getting used to riding the really rough dirt tracks again.

I loved the Michelin Desert tires we used through Siberia.  Compared to my original tires, they felt really solid and in control. But now I have the 80/20's (80% paved road/20% dirt tire) from Heidenau.. (Another thing organized by Walter before he left!! - thanks Mate!)  I was curious what they would be like on the dirt and gravel, and surprisingly they were great!  I'm not good with motorcycle pieces and parts talk, but I could hardly notice a difference!  This was good news to me.. Logically in my head I would have expected them to be rather slippery on the dirt.. but I felt confident and good with no slipping around. So I had no reason to change my riding habits from before.  You know, those very skilled motorcross riding habits I have acquired... ;-/

As I got closer to Olgiy, I was pleasantly surprised by a patch of bitumen.  It seems really out of place here.  I think it's wonderful... but out of place.  There's nobody using it!

Except these guys!!

Isn't it interesting that even THEY prefer bitumen to dirt??  Please don't call me a cow, but we are on the same page here!! ;-)

The paved road lasted about 30 km.  And then I spotted the thriving city of Olgiy.

Knowing I was going to be facing 220 km of even less used dirt tracks tomorrow, I plan on staying the night here.

Just on the edge of town and little car with a man and woman are flagging me down.  I refuse to stop.  I don't want to be forced off the road for them to sell me something.  Then he gets in front of me putting on his brakes to make me stop.  I just go around him.  I ride through town slowly having a look at what Mongolian culture is like and trying not to notice these crazy people in the car.  I must stop to get some money changed and something to drink at the shop.

They followed me all the way, jumping out of the car when I stopped and by now I'm a bit ticked off. He finds that I speak English, so he gets his notebook out and flips to the "english" page where somebody has hand written his name and a total sales pitch to come and stay at his guesthouse, meal etc etc.  I tell him no.  I had the hotels on my gps from Walter's waypoints, and I wanted to check them out instead.

Long story short, I gave in to his plea for me to at least have a look.  But not until I had sussed out the hotels.  They looked really scary, right in the town and nowhere safe to park the bike.  When I followed the man home, I got a complete little guesthouse to myself, with my bike parked right outside the door.  I  didn't like the pressure from the man, but it did seem the better choice.

His mom and Auntie got to work straight away in the kitchen to make my dinner.

They are such little people!  

I did like having my family experience rather than the hotel.  I hate to admit, but it worked out well the man was persistent.  

My meal is ready..  potato and onion were cooked really well, and meat (not sure, it tastes strange, maybe goat?  I did not want to offend, so I ate best I could)

Morat wants nothing but to watch me eat.. A bit uncomfortable.. but it was really good once I got used to the taste!!