Taxco, and Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido, MEXICO

Ahhhh, the little charming city of Taxco outside the big city of Mexico.  I love it already!

It was only about 180 km to ride here from Mexico City, but as you can imagine, the traffic took forever to navigate out of the city. The traffic carried on until I was well away from the city.  So 180 km seems like it is just outside Mexico City for me.


I'm looking forward to one night here.  Not longer.. I am feeling very behind and wanting to make tracks now through Mexico.  But I would put Taxco up there as a worthy place to visit.

First job on the agenda is to find a place to sleep tonight!  I can then park the bike and explore...

I was excited to come here for the silver.  Once I investigated, silver USED to be mined here; however, the mines have since dried up.  It was a bummer to learn that most silver for sale in Taxco didn't come from around here.  Kind of put me off even looking at it.  The town does have a rich history though. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taxco

The locals suggest I head up the hill and say G'day to Jesus. Quite a trade off! ;-)

I went up the hill and the first thing I saw this little girl playing near the cops with big guns. Sort of made me smile.

But what really made me smile was meeting her.  A little ball of energy!  She just started talking and talking and TALKING to me in Spanish like she had known me forever.. too cute!!

Then she thought she'd share her used Yakult bottle with me.

Her brother Miguel came around and told me her name is Hiromi.  A Japanese name her mother loves.

What an awesome big brother!!

I enjoyed my time so much with these two, I totally forgot about Jesus.

Miguel took this photo.  And guess what!  I can wear my new t-shirt without worrying that somebody else doesn't already have it on!!

It just doesn't phase me that I've been hanging around these guys with the big guns.  They've been really nice and pointing out sites in the town below.  I've been around the big guns since I arrived Mexico and they have just become part of the norm.

A quick view to Taxco, and I am starving!  Need to get back down the hill for dinner.

Now this morning, I've got the tricky job of navigating my way to Oaxaca through the back roads.

Hasta luego Taxco!

Yes!!! I'm in the country again.. no smog, freedom from traffic....  Hallelujah!!!!!

And an opportunity for more street food in some little town along the way.  So good!

I mustn't have been much in the mood for photos this day.  I didn't get the camera out again until I was well into Oaxaca and trying to find my way.  This was another large town with absolutely mental traffic and one way streets.  I wanted to find a particular hostel because another KTM rider told me it was good and he's there at the moment.  Been on my own for one whole night since leaving the boys and my friends in Mexico City.  Now I'm more than happy to meet people again!!

These men started off telling me to move away from their 5 star hotel front door.  After I told them I just needed to stop for a minute to read the corner streets signs.  I explained I was lost and wondered if they knew where the 1 star Hostel was, they didn't.  However, they pulled in everybody they could ask to help me figure it out.  Once they felt confident of the location, they not only called the people for me, but drew a very detailed map.  How nice are these men!!  They were not going to let me go until they felt I totally understood.

I found the place with no troubles after that, and I found a lovely large KTM!!

I met the KTM rider, Anders straight away in the hostel.  He was on the way out the door for the night to meet another guy, and invited me to come along once I settled in.

Nick on the left is from Canada on a Kawasaki KLR, Anders is from Denmark on KTM 990. And plenty of Mexican beer.  Super fun night out in Oaxaca!!!  Thanks for the photo Nick!!!

The next morning I quickly followed Anders advice to check out the ruins around Oaxaca, Monte Alban.  Thought to be one of the oldest cities in Mesoamerica.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Alb%C3%A1n

I'd love to check them out thoroughly, but it became really clear that I didn't want to be away from the bike and all my gear that long.  I was hounded by locals to buy stuff from the moment I arrived.  If I had wanted to hang around Oaxaca longer, I would have left my gear and/or the bike locked up in town in the garage.

Views from Monte Alban, the white mountain, above Oaxaca (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This isn't going to work today.  Besides,  I'm really happy with the ruins I have just visited at Tula, Teotihuacan and Mexico City.  So I gave in to my worries for the bike and got on the road to Puerto Escondido.

Watch out for missing roads!!

Absolutely gorgeous ride through the mountains toward the west coast.  

After a long and twisty ride,  I made it to the lovely Puerto Escondido!  This is a nice change of pace!!

The bike is parked for the night.  Nick made his way here today as well and we meet up for dinner, swapping plenty of bike stories.

Not really interested in hanging around though.  I am more interested to continue south and see where the road takes me tomorrow.  Buenos Noches!!

Mexico City

Frida Kahlo, Self-Portrait, 1940. See discussion of her works below. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Welcome to Mexico City!!!!

This morning I separated from the boys to visit Mexico City on my own.  It was a big decision at the time. Especially since we had so much trouble on the outskirts of Mexico City's highways and roads.. as well as the dread of living amongst the smog.  

However I had organized to stay with my hosts weeks ago, who are friends of Adam. (See California Death Valley and Yosemite posts).  I studied Spanish history in school and I've wanted to visit Mexico City for many many years.   I can't just pass it up, being this close.

Eran, my host, lives with his wife and son in a small apartment and there was not space for 3 more bikers.  Eran tried to find accommodation near his house for the three, but it was far too expensive to even consider.  It wasn't worth the boys to tackle the traffic, smog and prices just to wait for me.  And I really wanted to go, so we went our separate ways this morning.  I'll meet up with them again further on down the road. 

Nice consolation to be greeted by these smiling faces!

Eran, my host in the center, rides a BMW 1200, and the other two ride KTM!!  Good men!! ;-)

They have another guest already in the house. It was such a welcoming place to be as well as a super good home cooked meal..!!  Recipes from Israel in Mexico City!  An ironic and fun change of pace. I'm feeling really lucky to be here and knowing I made the right decision to come.

The following morning, I have a service scheduled with the KTM shop in Mexico City.  (Another good reason to make the trip into the city.  Finding KTM parts from here on down will be a challenge and I best take advantage of the close proximity of the shop). My gps does not work with addresses in Mexico. And knowing the craziness of the roads and traffic, Eran offers to take time out of his busy day to escort me to the KTM shop.   (I think he loves the idea of riding about on his bike this morning too.. A true biker. ;-))

OMG, so glad to be following Eran.  It's not even rush hour!!!  That sign says Nebraska is coming up. Where am I again???

The guys at KTM were great and Eran waited around patiently for my service so I didn't have to find my own way back. How lucky am I to meet people like Eran all over the world!

He's organized to meet another BMW buddy of his for lunch. They plan on riding their BMW's in Baja California soon where I just came from, and they wanted to hear about the ride.  This is a nice part of the city called Condessa; very much on the pleasant side!  I wouldn't have guessed I could live like this from what I went through on the roads to get in to the city.  But it's nice to see our bikes look so cultured parked by a fountain ;-)

Mmmmmmmmmmmm... check out the lunch food!!!  Great choice Eran!!!  I don't think in any other country in this blog have I carried on this much about the food.  I am totally in love with it here.. can ya tell????

While we are putting our coats on to leave, I look for my keys.  Can't find them.  Crap!  I don't have my keys!!!!

I made a lightening fast dash out to the bike, and how could I be this dumb!!??  (Don't answer that...) They are in the ignition in the MIDDLE OF MEXICO CITY!!!  I took a photo as I could not believe it.  I have done this once before in Spain (and I was lucky that time too on a busy street).  But I figured it out a lot quicker.  This time, I sat through an entire meal, oblivious.  I am so lucky my bike is still here OR Mexico City is not as bad as I was told when it comes to theft.

All is well while we pack up.. could have been a totally different story.

Now I let Eran get back to his day, poor thing.  We locked the bike up in the garage and I take off to explore on foot and subway.

By the looks of the air here, might be best to travel underground anyway?  The only time I've ever seen it this bad was in the Phillipines.

So, up for a bit of Spanish History?  Check out the Spaniards taking control of the indigenous people. What is the priest saying.. "Bless you but we are going to kill you and take your land!" ???

In this one you can see why the ruins are in ruins!!

Every country in the world seems to have a similar history.  This is just a picture of theirs.

The museum was cool, but back out into the lovely smog, I carry on.

I go from this....

To this....!!!

For a long time, Mexico City was the largest city on the planet.  Last time I looked (several years ago) it was number 2 behind Seoul, South Korea.    According to this list http://www.city-infos.com/list-of-urban-areas-by-population it is now # 9.  They list Tokyo as being number one now, I didn't know.. I've been there too.  It was the first city I arrived with my bike on this journey.  I was overwhelmed with the size and population, but didn't know it was number 1!  It's quite an interesting list, have a look.

I escape this madness and take the subway to the neighborhood of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's house and museum.  I really enjoyed reading about this super passionate famous lady and her relationship with artist Diego Rivera in my history class. Also a good movie is "Frida" with Salma Hayek if you haven't seen it!

I LOVE their house.   They don't allow photos inside as usual. You can only purchase a book with the photos in the little store.  Nope.

This little sign in their garden says it all....

Back into the center.. I find the most amazing contrast.

This massive metropolitan Cathedral and the shaman outside healing the people. He had a fair line of up local people to heal too!

Another day, another museum.  Into the center for amazing ruins they didn't uncover until 1978... 1978!!  The reason is they had built the current city over an ancient city more than once. It was only when electrical workers chanced upon an eight-ton stone disk depicting the Aztec goddess Coyolxauhqui. Excavation unearthed a pyramid built in multiple layers. This is the spot where, according to legend, the Aztecs saw their sign to settle from their wanderings.

First, before I go in, I'm looking at the buildings on the edge of the ruins and wondering if there is more under them.  They are looking a bit uneven and wobbly if you ask me.

Here's a small look at what the main Temple would have been like.

English: National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. Reconstruction of the Templo Mayor of Tenochtitlan Deutsch: National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. Rekonstruktion des Templo Mayor in Tenochtitlan (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Templo Mayor was considered to be and built as the "Center of the Universe" !! 

And then a new generation came along and built a whole new world right on top of it.. how did it lose it's importance for all that to happen?!  Maybe see the photos of the conquest again above ;-/

I'm still fascinated that they only unearthed all of this in 1978....

Inside the museum building to see some of the artifacts they found... I love this stuff!  Sorry if it might be boring for you, but this blog is for me to look at and remember when I'm an oldie..

This is the god of death... "El Dios de la Muerte"

OKAY!!!  On to more FUN stuff!!!!!

My wonderful hosts have some more friends coming into town and organized for me to meet them in a special part of Mexico City to the Embarcaderos Nuevo Nativitas.  The actual area is called Xochimilco and were formally the canals used by farmers for crop transport.

Somebody had the grand idea of using the boats and filling them with beer, food and music!!

Eran's friend took the photo and then didn't like that he wasn't in it. So the new and improved version is below. ;-)

Apples, corn, beer, tacos, fruit, more beer, music, dancing.. or you can even bring your own picnic.

What's really cool about this is that it's a gorgeous day out not full of tourists to Mexico City.. it's full of locals.  A favorite spot to spend a Sunday afternoon.  Love it!!

Despite the look of the traffic police above, I have loved so much my visit to Mexico City.  Made even more fun by my hosts Eran and Keren.  I am more than glad I took the time to stop here and experience this great city.

But the time has come to get back on the road.. story of my life!

I decide to make my way to Taxco.

It took an hour and a half of driving out of Mexico City before the smog even began to diminish.

I can't believe I am this far into the countryside now and still need to wear my bandana to breathe.

One last point..  natural environmentally friendly farming practices viewed along the way... Good!! Unfortunately not enough to counter balance the exhaust fumes from the city.  I really hope some day will be the end of cars and trucks bellowing out blue and black clouds thoughout the whole world.

I'm looking forward to my next stop Taxco!  It's well known as a silver center for Mexico.. and I love silver!!