Back to Croatia, Doug Wothke and Umag Biker Party!

First, a few more bullet holes.. The last day with Josip, we finish riding through north Bosnia before crossing the border to Croatia.. but not without witnessing a few last abandoned and destroyed villages.  So few people have moved back since the war.  I haven't seen any other country like this on my trip so far.  And it would be such a beautiful place to live!  Note:  the photos from this point on get gradually worse.. the beginning of the end of my camera... it's worked hard for the last year and I think it's about to lose the battle.

This looked like the main street of a village was quite a happening place before the war.. restaurant, pub, shops, fuel..  all abandoned..  and below some of the house settlements nearby.. looking quite eery.

Now in Croatia, there are still houses sprayed with bullets, but they diminish somewhat quickly the further into the country I go.  We have quite a full day riding and make it to our destination of Plitvice Lakes.  Another top spot highly recommended by many and glad i get the opportunity to see.. have a look at this heavenly place!!

That is the most refreshing color of water, I am so tempted to jump in..  There are 16 lakes here separated by natural dams, and it's cool to be able to see so many by way of these gorgeous walk paths that connect them.

What a nice conclusion for my tour with Croatian man Josip.  It was kind of him to escort me through Serbia, Bosnia and now his own country.  We have a final meal, which included more of his asparagus!!  Yum.. 

And tomorrow I continue on through to Umag Croatia, where I am to meet fellow adventurer, Doug Wothke!

But for now, thank you Josip, you taught me so much more than I would have picked up on my own.. ;-)

Ok, now... after much negotiation, I set off toward Umag, located on the coast in northern Croatia, so I can meet my freind in person, but also deliver his much needed insurance card via his girlfriend Poly you met in my Bulgaria post. We originally planned to meet in Serbia, but since Josip had me finish in Croatia, it was 700 km back to the location for Doug.  Luckily I contacted him in time, and it "just so happend"  that he knew of a biker party that would work for both of us to get to somewhat easily in Croatia.  I felt guilty having him change his plan so drastically, as he is just now starting a huge journey himself and this was not part of the path.  On the other hand, he said he has never been to Croatia, and given the biker party, he had a great excuse.. thanks Doug!~

I know a whole heap of you all know this guy... for those who don't, it's Doug Wotkhe from Alabama who has 4 trips and counting around the world on various Harley Davidsons.  www.motosapiens.org

He has a great website and blog if you like to follow this years trip through the "Stans" and as he is heading up to Siberia to do the same track that Walter and I did last summer.. Not quite the ideal journey for a normal Harley, so the man creates a Harley that is part KTM (because he soooo much wants to be just like me.. ha!), to make it higher so he can get through the rough bits.

I have many times said it is the perfect bike for me..  I can't wait to see him complete this years journey.

Umag biker party is HUGE!!  Doug is a frequent bike partier, it amazes me how he knows where every party in the world is.. at all times!  I have never been to one in my life, so this is very eye opening.

 

This is a whole weekend deal.  We camp here for free, which I love.. Surprisingly, they have excellent bathroom and shower facilities, best I think I've seen in a camp spot!  Even included built in hair dryers like a fancy hotel.. and it's free!

However, Mr. Wothke had trouble sleeping through the loud rock and roll band (and I mean very loud, I was so exhausted from my Balkan marathon that I actually slept through it)  My tent was surrounded by tents and drunk people all night and when they started their bikes up at 3 or 4 in the morning, like right next to my ear through the thin tent..I was aware of it, but went straight back to sleep..  even for me that's unreal! 

This guy knows what I'm talkin' bout..

Next day we went to explore this part of Croatia on the bikes.. look at those front wheels together, don't they look related!

Took this photo of Doug at a stop.. this is what I usually look like on KTM.  Tippy toes!  (now mine is lower, but his will be high for the trip)  A most unusual site for anyone on a Harley to be on tippy toes!

I enjoyed watching the newbies roll in on this day.  This one caught my eye.. The woman driving the man.. another first for me to see!  It may be common and I just don't notice as we all ride with helmets.

This little girl at the gate hands out the free Raki (alcohol) as you check in..  I declined, which seemed to perplex her, however a photograph instead.  Too cute..

Another first for me, how many can I have in one day!  This couple below have their child inbetween them.. NO HELMET.. Is that bandana supposed to protect that little head if they fall over?  I saw 4 or 5 couples with their kids this way over the weekend, blows my mind..

 

I learn part of being at a biker party means... revving up the engines really really loud!! And spinning tires of coarse..!  Boys will be boys, here especially!

The main thing was to meet this crazy man..   He and his girlfriend Polly in Bulgaria (you met in my Bulgaria post), have been a great support on my journey with plenty of advice and contacts ever since I was in Russia last year.  I never allowed this, but I now carry a blow dryer because he said I could! He says to help me dry out my gear faster when wet, yeah right!!!  That's what I use mine for!! ;-)) 

And so funny that the man from Alabama meets the girl from Indiana on their motorcycles in dag gone Croatia!!

We both went out of our way to meet in person, and it was a great weekend.  I admire this guy for all his accomplishments in world travel on very unique Harleys, and I hope I can get to at least half the places he's been.  If you ever get the chance, his and Polly's Motocamp in Bulgaria is well worth the visit.. so unique itself!  www. motosapiens.org

Great to meet you Doug, best wishes for a successful journey this year!

Serbia to Bosnia

Josip, on BMW 1200gs doesn't waste much time.. as soon as I arrived Belgrade, got my bike and myself clean at the hotel, he says we are going out to meet his friend Dane (pronounced Da - nay), on Honda Africa Twin for a little tour around.  I was really exhausted and just wanted to stop for the day. However, we only have 4 days to get through 3 countries with Josip's short time schedule off work. Don't sit down yet, Sherri Jo! Gotta keep going so I don't miss anything!!

We first ride around the city, and then up to this really large fortress.  I did not expect to see this, but it makes sense.  Serbia has had so much war history in the recent years still fresh in my mind, I hadn't learned of or considered it's more ancient times. Kalemegdan Fortress is right in the center of Belgrade on the banks of two rivers that meet, the Danube and Sava.

With history here dating back as far as 3rd century BC, this location at different times has been ruled by Romans, Hungarians, Austrians, and most notably the Turks from the Ottoman Empire.  It's in a key position at the two rivers for protection and/or battle.  Actually, the name Kalemegdan derives from two Turkish words, kale (fortress) and meydan (battleground) (literally, "battlefield fortress").

Would the Turks have liked seeing 3 motorcycles at the gate, rather than 3 horses??  And would they have let us in?  1 Serbian, 1 Croatian, and 1 Aussie/American..? ;-)

Never ceases to entertain my imagination to walk through these relics of ancient history, even though I've been doing it non-stop for months now..

Inside the fortress is basically a large park for the city.. It used to "be" the city, as everyone lived on the inside.!

And from here is a spectacular view of the rivers meeting.

It's a beautiful day in Belgrade (granted I've only been in the city about 2 hours) and the locals take in the sunset river views.

One last snap before we head out the gate back to the bikes.

Back on the bikes we follow Dane as he shows us more of Belgrade..

Yikes!  Looks like this building has seen better days..

We stop on a sidewalk in Belgrade and a woman comes up to me and asks (in Serbian, thank goodness for Dane to answer on my behalf!) if she can take a photo of her son on my bike.. Heck, there were 3 bikes there, the BMW, Africa Twin, and mine and she picked mine..good taste, lady! ;-)

 Dane is doing a heck of a job showing us ALL of Belgrade in one short evening!

We even made a trip to his garage, where he and Josip together tucked in to fixing my mirror.. great guys, I am, and my bike is..  so lucky to meet them both.

It was really fun and great to see Belgrade, Serbia. Especaially since early in the morning we are heading to Bosnia, leaving Serbia far far far too soon for me! ;-(

On the road in the morning, Josip (pronounce Yo-sip), is uncomfortable on that super size BMW 1200gs.  So he gets an idea when we pass this road side stand selling dried beans.  There is a bag that sits on the seat right behind him that he fills right up with many bags of these beans, making his seat and back rest much more comfortable.. (Hey, Josip, you should try to ride my bike for a bit, hey!??? ;-))  If anything, it's good for the economy of this lovely old Serbian man.. he can take the rest of the day off!

Back on the road, and Josip gets comfortable... I mean, REALLY comfortable. The beans must have done the trick, because on top of his back rest, check out the use of those front pegs!

I know I totally shouldn't admit this, but it makes me chuckle.. and I can't help it. When I see people using those front pegs, a visual comes to mind and it involves a surgical procedure.. ha!)

Along the road I see some cool Serbian kids...

Not long after we ride into Bosnia.. and a bit of a weather change..

The rain starts a-fallin' pretty good and Josip pulls over yet again to add a rain suit.. Luckily the riding suit I have from my sponsors Innotesco and Rukka is gore-tex so I don't have to do this!  And the look of this suit got me to chuckling again..  Don't worry, I'm not laughing behind his back.  He is aware that I'm having fun with this while I take a photo.. and he gets a photo of me here too.. (just not sure I shared the visual of the front pegs mentioned earlier..  sorry Josip! ;-)

Well that'll do with this blog post of Serbia to Bosnia..  I will add more to it soon.. see ya!