Showing posts with label Doug Wothke. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Doug Wothke. Show all posts

Cusco Peru - Part 1


Heck, where do I start about Cusco Peru?  The idea for me here is to take time off.  It's been a really hard core few months.. Lots of long distance riding from North America, through Mexico and Central America and nearly to the bottom, the Chilean Adventure, Kevin, Bolivia, etc.  If I could go down to Ushuaia and finish South America, I would.  But it's winter there.  The weather is bad in the good months, so it's super bad in the winter months, not on my list of things to do solo.

So I decided to take a break, live a normal life, catch up on the blog, and wait for Young James who went back to England for a couple months for his break.  When he gets to Cusco, our plan is to travel to the great Amazon, something I don't want to miss while I am in South America.  And I know it's a difficult road, so I'd rather wait than ride that part of the world alone as well.

I spent many weeks in Cusco and I will do my best to whittle down the photos.


Cusco is another city at a high elevation 3,400 mt (11,200 ft).  Which is actually lower than I've been in quite a while. Not as much huffing and puffing needed as I did in the last weeks in Bolivia, but still makes me feel old to climb these hills in the thin air.

I searched and searched and found an "apartment" for 1 month.  Not sure why they call it an apartment as it was with shared bathroom and kitchen with 4 other rooms.  I didn't care though, it was cheap as I could get and just thrilled to have a kitchen with an oven.  One of my first desires was to make chocolate chip cookies! And lots of little pizzas with pineapple.

Easy to get fresh food, but sometimes it's a bit too fresh at the local market at the end of my street.  I never once bought meat at the market. Let's not discuss sanitation. I was a full on vegetarian when I lived here and cooked for myself.. ;-/



The Plaza de Armas in Cusco was always a pleasure.  I have to say it's my favorite plaza in any city I've been. Really pretty and well kept.  Kevin was a plaza man.  In every town we ever stopped, that is the first place he'd head too.  And after hearing stories from his sister-in-law Tracey of their trip here together 15 years ago, I could not help but imagine Kevin in this plaza every single time I passed through, especially at night.


My main goal while here is to work on the blog.  I treated it like a job and spent hours on it nearly every day.  The apartment I am in is an extension to a charity hotel down the street.  They don't have internet in the apartment, so I'd wander down to their cafeteria every single day, and well into the night sometimes.


This hotel, Ninos, is set up by a Dutch woman who saw a lot of children on the street when she visited. So she created the hotel as a charity to help the children in need here in Cusco.  She does an excellent job and I'm only too happy that the money I spend to stay here goes to them.  I live in an apartment above their little school and listen to the children come in every morning.


While I stayed in this apartment, my motorcycle is parked about 2 blocks away.  Cusco is known for robbery and the only thing I didn't like about staying here is that my motorcycle was not in my continuous sight. I'm a big worrier, and every morning at 6 AM, I'd run up to visit and make sure all was okay.


Cusco is a fantastic place to roam around, so full of history and culture.  When I'd take a break, I would like to hike up the hill to the Inca ruins, Sacsayhuaman



Sacsayhuaman is the historic capital of the Inca Empire which covered a huge area of South America from Colombia to Chile. It was built around 1100 AD. I get stuck and marvel at the large stone walls of Inca construction every single time.  I can't help but to imagine the sheer amount of work involved to lay just one stone. The Spanish explorer Pizarro destroyed most of this Inca city in 1535. Remains of the palace of the Incas, the Temple of the Sun, and the Temple of the Virgins of the Sun still stand. The Inca construction has proved to be stronger than most foundations built in present-day Peru. Easy to see why...


And being an animal lover, I like to meet my friends up here.






Cusco is a crowded town with lots of exhaust fumes unable to escape from the close buildings.  So bad that I usually walked to the market with my bandana over my nose.  So to be up here means fresh air, and I love it.

The lamb was following this young boy down the hill.  I can only predict it was to take the lamb to his mother in Cusco which are used to get photos with tourists.


Which I have to admit, I am guilty of getting the photos as well.  You get hounded by these women all day long for a tip... "Miss.....You want a photo?"


I usually say No, but I couldn't pass this little baby up.  The lady was busy with her child and the little lamb was close to the street.  So I did my job to keep it safe until she was finished with her own baby.




Good news on the motorcycle front.  My most wonderful sponsor Pasi at Innotesco in Australia who represents Rukka http://www.innotesco.com.au/rukka/, had arranged to send me a new jacket while I was here. I didn't ask for it, it was just something they wanted to do.  After all that has gone wrong lately, it was the greatest to receive a brand new jacket in the mail.  And look at this one!  Red!


I couldn't wait to try it on.  For the first time, I get to try the waterproof Gore Lockout Closer.. in other words, a rubber toothless zip!  I can honestly say I never had any trouble with the old jacket leaking through the zippers, but I am intrigued at how this new one works.  It makes sense, completely closed, sealed and waterproof.  I also love the large reflectors, making much more visible especially in the dark.  This is so great, THANK YOU SO MUCH to Innotesco and Rukka!


I wore my new jacket everywhere... love it!!


One thing you can ALWAYS count on in Cusco is a party.. Fiesta!  They have more celebrations here than anywhere in the world that I've experienced. For this saint or that saint in Catholicism, for the winter solstice, teachers, postmen, for the military, rescue workers.. The town is often shut down for dancing in the street.





On another day they are celebrating the armed services and rescue guys.



Gee whiz, I'd hate to run into those hairy guys on the road!




This guy is doing well!



There must come a time in life that it's best to sit and watch the others dance...


 Time out for a texting marathon!




I got another awesome gift in the mail from good friend Doug Wothke.  I had many things stolen from my backpack in La Paz, Bolivia, and one of the most important pieces that was gone is my SPOT tracker.  Especially for a solo rider, the SPOT tracker is my emergency device to call for help.  Several wonderful friends on facebook wanted to help with many things, which really blew me away. The support from world wide friends still astounds me.  Doug insisted on sending me this SPOT he had, and on top of that, a new lock!  Hahaha.. well thought out, Mr. Doug.  In the package was another surprise, a VERY COOL t-shirt for the upcoming Cannonball race in the United States. He'll be riding his 1928 Indian.  All this came in right before my birthday, so it was perfect.  THANK YOU SO MUCH, DOUG!!



My own bike survived another night.. always happy to see it.  And it's even more fun to have a new shirt to wear.  I've been wearing the same clothes for 2 years now, so you know what I mean..


Not the most exciting blog post...  no big adventure here in town for a few weeks, but given the chance to watch the tourists come in for a quick 2 days, see Machu Picchu and then leave, I feel it was special to call Cusco home for a while and really get to know it and make good friends.  To be continued..

Back to Croatia, Doug Wothke and Umag Biker Party!

First, a few more bullet holes.. The last day with Josip, we finish riding through north Bosnia before crossing the border to Croatia.. but not without witnessing a few last abandoned and destroyed villages.  So few people have moved back since the war.  I haven't seen any other country like this on my trip so far.  And it would be such a beautiful place to live!  Note:  the photos from this point on get gradually worse.. the beginning of the end of my camera... it's worked hard for the last year and I think it's about to lose the battle.


This looked like the main street of a village was quite a happening place before the war.. restaurant, pub, shops, fuel..  all abandoned..  and below some of the house settlements nearby.. looking quite eery.



Now in Croatia, there are still houses sprayed with bullets, but they diminish somewhat quickly the further into the country I go.  We have quite a full day riding and make it to our destination of Plitvice Lakes.  Another top spot highly recommended by many and glad i get the opportunity to see.. have a look at this heavenly place!!





That is the most refreshing color of water, I am so tempted to jump in..  There are 16 lakes here separated by natural dams, and it's cool to be able to see so many by way of these gorgeous walk paths that connect them.


What a nice conclusion for my tour with Croatian man Josip.  It was kind of him to escort me through Serbia, Bosnia and now his own country.  We have a final meal, which included more of his asparagus!!  Yum.. 


And tomorrow I continue on through to Umag Croatia, where I am to meet fellow adventurer, Doug Wothke!

But for now, thank you Josip, you taught me so much more than I would have picked up on my own.. ;-)


Ok, now... after much negotiation, I set off toward Umag, located on the coast in northern Croatia, so I can meet my freind in person, but also deliver his much needed insurance card via his girlfriend Poly you met in my Bulgaria post. We originally planned to meet in Serbia, but since Josip had me finish in Croatia, it was 700 km back to the location for Doug.  Luckily I contacted him in time, and it "just so happend"  that he knew of a biker party that would work for both of us to get to somewhat easily in Croatia.  I felt guilty having him change his plan so drastically, as he is just now starting a huge journey himself and this was not part of the path.  On the other hand, he said he has never been to Croatia, and given the biker party, he had a great excuse.. thanks Doug!~

I know a whole heap of you all know this guy... for those who don't, it's Doug Wotkhe from Alabama who has 4 trips and counting around the world on various Harley Davidsons.  www.motosapiens.org

He has a great website and blog if you like to follow this years trip through the "Stans" and as he is heading up to Siberia to do the same track that Walter and I did last summer.. Not quite the ideal journey for a normal Harley, so the man creates a Harley that is part KTM (because he soooo much wants to be just like me.. ha!), to make it higher so he can get through the rough bits.


I have many times said it is the perfect bike for me..  I can't wait to see him complete this years journey.

Umag biker party is HUGE!!  Doug is a frequent bike partier, it amazes me how he knows where every party in the world is.. at all times!  I have never been to one in my life, so this is very eye opening.

 
This is a whole weekend deal.  We camp here for free, which I love.. Surprisingly, they have excellent bathroom and shower facilities, best I think I've seen in a camp spot!  Even included built in hair dryers like a fancy hotel.. and it's free!

However, Mr. Wothke had trouble sleeping through the loud rock and roll band (and I mean very loud, I was so exhausted from my Balkan marathon that I actually slept through it)  My tent was surrounded by tents and drunk people all night and when they started their bikes up at 3 or 4 in the morning, like right next to my ear through the thin tent..I was aware of it, but went straight back to sleep..  even for me that's unreal! 

This guy knows what I'm talkin' bout..


Next day we went to explore this part of Croatia on the bikes.. look at those front wheels together, don't they look related!


Took this photo of Doug at a stop.. this is what I usually look like on KTM.  Tippy toes!  (now mine is lower, but his will be high for the trip)  A most unusual site for anyone on a Harley to be on tippy toes!


I enjoyed watching the newbies roll in on this day.  This one caught my eye.. The woman driving the man.. another first for me to see!  It may be common and I just don't notice as we all ride with helmets.


This little girl at the gate hands out the free Raki (alcohol) as you check in..  I declined, which seemed to perplex her, however a photograph instead.  Too cute..



Another first for me, how many can I have in one day!  This couple below have their child inbetween them.. NO HELMET.. Is that bandana supposed to protect that little head if they fall over?  I saw 4 or 5 couples with their kids this way over the weekend, blows my mind..



I learn part of being at a biker party means... revving up the engines really really loud!! And spinning tires of coarse..!  Boys will be boys, here especially!

The main thing was to meet this crazy man..   He and his girlfriend Polly in Bulgaria (you met in my Bulgaria post), have been a great support on my journey with plenty of advice and contacts ever since I was in Russia last year.  I never allowed this, but I now carry a blow dryer because he said I could! He says to help me dry out my gear faster when wet, yeah right!!!  That's what I use mine for!! ;-)) 

And so funny that the man from Alabama meets the girl from Indiana on their motorcycles in dag gone Croatia!!



We both went out of our way to meet in person, and it was a great weekend.  I admire this guy for all his accomplishments in world travel on very unique Harleys, and I hope I can get to at least half the places he's been.  If you ever get the chance, his and Polly's Motocamp in Bulgaria is well worth the visit.. so unique itself!  www. motosapiens.org

Great to meet you Doug, best wishes for a successful journey this year!


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