Mongolia to Novosibirsk Russia

After a good sleep in my wooden yurt, I take off early again to get back to Novosibirsk.. and back to more familiar faces.

First stop,  a big drink of  much needed fuel!

I still waited to eat though. Hungry as I was, I could have found something in this town, but I knew I wanted to go back to the café at Aktash… Back to the same place I had been before.  I had my order prepared in my iphone translator.  Borscht – of coarse!!  Plus mashed potatoes, which I can not say for anything in Russian, Goulash, tea and bread.  An absolute feast!  Eyes too big for my stomach as expected, but I didn’t care.  I gave it a darn good try!  Stomach may have shrunk a bit over the last few days, so I gave it a good stretch out.  

Through the Altay mountain range again..

Such a pretty road.. well worth the trip even if you don’t venture into Mongolia.

I see trees again..  I was wondering where the trees in Mongolia go.  I love fall, and it’s a gorgeous time of year to be riding a motorcycle in Russia.

The weather gradually took a turn for the worse.

It was drizzling and then came full on rain for the rest of my 500 km ride.  I knew where to go though.  To my next familiar stop, Ust Muni.

Back to the wonderful mini hotel and the family who fed me once before.  I must be like a cat.  Returning to the home that feeds you..  ;-)

The gate was shut.  I knocked and no answer.  Why would a hotel gate be shut and locked?

They finally came out in the rain, opened the gate and welcomed me in.  Turns out they are closed.  I don’t understand fully, but what I am thinking is that they are only open on weekends, or they had just had their final weekend and closed for the season.

Doesn’t matter, she is happy to see me, and they gave me my same room back.  Took me straight into their very fancy house and let me take a nice big warm shower.  As soon as I came out, as history repeats itself, she had a big bowl of borscht waiting for me and some home made pastries just pulled from the oven!!  Lucky lucky me!!!

Next morning, my next 500 km’s are uneventful.. Rain and flat highway..

My previous Novosibirsk house host Mark has invited me back as well.  From my gps settings, I ride right through the city and up to his garage.

Park the bike and time for welcome home celebrations!!  (I know, it's not my home.. nor my family.. but beggars can't be choosers ;-)  It's just another great example of extreme Russian hospitality.

The night includes a welcome surprise, Australian wine!!

Mark on guitar and his good friend Alexander “Sasha”.. They are University mates and I get to hear many of their uni songs.  Marks wife is missing, she is in Moscow and returns Monday.

Novosibirsk in a young city, only around 100 years old, with the first bank opening in 1906.  I ask what is the main industry to the 3rd largest city in Russia and they tell me #1 is Intellect!  Intellect an industry? This explains why there are so many universities in that town. And no surprise that Marks 14 year old son Gleb, is a physics major.

As I stayed for the weekend, that young boy studied Friday night, out at 8 AM on Saturday and again on Sunday!  Who studies all day on Sunday!!?? (I obviously didn't..)

I asked Mark if this is required with work from his special school, and he said no, he and his mates really just like studying physics!  I was impressed.

And younger son Ilya “Ilushka”, was just too cute.. we had such a good time.

Okay, kids to bed, we bring out the serious alcohol - and more serious songs.  I loved listening, even though I don't understand the words, it really really sounds good.  Had nothing to do with the drink I just had!

Next day, Mark takes me all over Novosibirsk running errands.

One goal is to find a way to get help my freezing toes on these cold days.  We went to the market.. completely run by Russian mafia!  Or at least used to be..

I don’t doubt it though.  While Mark is negotiating my heat pads to put in my motorcycle boots, this guy is not happy about me taking photos.  Mark told me after how he had to convince the man I am an Australian tourist.

This next guy totally looked the mafia part.  But angrily turned away quicker than I could take the photo.

A massive market, you could walk for days in there.  I’m glad I’ve got Mark with me. It's clearly a rough place, with serious business.

Time to get Ilya from school.. I’ve never been in a Russian school before!

And then drop Ilya to “Babushka’s” Grandma’s house.  Mark's Mom, a wonderful lady, who I also stayed with one night before I left.   I've had to stay in one spot longer than I would like, but what I enjoy so much is seeing real life in Russia and being part of it.  Really get to know the lifestyle, custom, etc.  Noticing so many similarities and differences.  

At one point, I ask Mark if he preferred their lifestyle during Communist times or now.  He actually preferred the old times, saying that the people were far more of a community than they are now.  He does like having a mobile phone, but other than that, people were closer back then.

And the remainder of the day on tour of Novosibirsk!

Next job is to get the first of 2 ice creams for the day.  Spoiled… I am spoiled, I will be the first to admit!!!  ;-)

I found this far too cute woman on a park bench…

And then for a lovely stroll along the Ob River.

Not quite the quality as an Australian beach, but it’s the company that counts!

The last section of the original bridge over the river.  The reason this city exists was due to this first Trans Siberian railway connection between Central Asia and the Caspian Sea to Siberia.

And to finish out this day in the life of a Russian family, I am taken to good friend Nataliya’s house for pumpkin soup… 2^nd pumpkin soup in Russia !! It’s not common here at all, and yet I’ve had it twice.. Remember once at Tatiana’s in Yakutsk, and now!  Yum!!!

Nataliya works for an American man, and she speaks English fluently.  It was great to meet with her as she is a keen world traveller and her house is FILLED with great things she has bought all over the world.  (Makes me a bit jealous, because I can not buy much of anything since there is nowhere to put it on motorcycle).

I ask Nataliya the same question whether she preferred the Communist times or now.. and complete opposite answer to Mark.  Everybody's different, and I'm glad!

I loved my time in Novosibirsk even more the second time around!  However, as a travelling guest, I had out done my 2 night quota as a visitor (by another 2 nights) and was very ancy to get going.  

I had lost a bit of time going to America, and another week behind diverting to Mongolia.  Now I am in a serious race to get out of Siberia before the snow comes AND to get to where I need to go before my Russian visa expires!  Add to that fact that I need to go very far north again into even colder country so I might continue my original travel plan to Finland and Europe.

We did a thorough survey of 10 day weather forecasts on my sites and on Mark’s Russian sites, and the outlook was grim.

Since my next goal was originally to connect through Moscow, and it was all highway and delivery trucks for 1753 miles or 2821 Km, I opt to find another way taking into account the freezing weather ahead.

Decided to take a train to St. Petersburg which was to take 3 days. On the internet I learn they take motorcycles.  Great!  I can cut my time in half and travel through these next few days of freezing rain under the roof of a train!

Turned out through Mark's research it would not be advisable to put my bike on the train, and they are very unreliable and things get "lost".  After many phone calls and meetings from Mark (gee whiz I feel guilty the time he has put into my project), he feels that I must put the bike on a delivery truck separate, and fly or train myself.  This was a big learning experience for me.  I should have just left when I was supposed to and conquered the weather if I had only known that I was not going to make up the lost time.  Sounded good from the start of the plan, but it went down hill from there.. and we were too far in it to back out. (well I could have technically, but the guilt of time spent from Mark would have been overwhelming for me)  I ended up getting rather stressed about the whole situation until Nataliya calmed me by saying that Mark is so professional and experienced, she would advise I stick through it, and what the heck - I get a new experience of train travel in Russia - it's like no other train ride in the world!  ;-)  Too right.  

I chose the train to St. Petersburg because it was the closest point for me to get off and over to Finland where I want to meet one of my sponsors, Rukka.  

Mongolia part 3

I finally make my way to a planned village, Tsengel. I was really hoping to find some food.. It was around 2:30, so I was a bit hungry.

I went into the café, and I saw what they were eating, and it just wasn’t going to work for me this time… some culture food works and some don’t! There is only one choice in this cafe.. boiled minced meat wrapped in a little dumpling is the best way I can describe it. I'm not sure what the meat is but the smell is mostly what put me off.

So I decided to try the supermarket. 

Do I pull in next to the horses? I thought not to scare them I’ll stop here.

Takes no time at all and my bike is surrounded. I was getting a bit used to understanding Russian language, but I am at a total loss of what these men are saying. They are a bit more forward here too, they want to touch and pull on everything!!

I quickly ran into the supermarket (after a man helped me find a lady to unlock the door), and as soon as I saw it, was quite a let down. I find it has no food, except cookies, candy and soda. Not what I wanted for lunch. Best I could come up with was a small bottle of Aloe Vera drink. Was very good, but not fulfilling. I do have my candy bar, so that with the drink will have to do today.

Kids just got out of school, and come for a look as well! So many people surrounding me and the bike, it was starting to get a bit tense. So I pull them out in the street to take a photo. Such rosy cheeks!

Watch out for the traffic kids!

I take my juice and bar out of town..

I pass this little settlement, and loved that not only do they have a satellite dish , but 2 lots of solar power.. cool!

And I might add, although I didn’t get a picture of it, I was riding past a group of yurts that were surrounded by an old rickety stone fence. I saw someone standing on the stone and assume they were looking over of herd of goats across the path I was riding. But when I passed this person it was a woman standing high on the fence for best reception as she talked on her mobile phone!

Okay.. it’s an interesting mix. I see women on horses ride to a creek for a wash, really primitive looking homes… yet connected to the world with satellite dishes and mobile phones.

Looks like a peaceful existence regardless. But it’s getting late, very cold and windy.

From here on I pick up the pace. I get to a place where the tracks are going every which way really bad again.. I am trying so hard to follow the gps, but it’s going straight up and over that large hill!! With no track!

Dirt looks a bit soft, I think I’ll stick to the track and hope for the best. After a couple kilmometers, the waypoint track was completely gone off my gps. I am way off track. But I can’t be!! The track clearly doesn’t go over that hill.

The one thing I know is that I am heading east. This means I will eventually meet up with the main road I originally took into Olgiy.

And sure enough, just as I was about to ride up to a single yurt to see if I can manage to ask to confirm direction, I see a car heading south in the distance. That must be the main road. Yay!! I was so happy when I got there.

I made it through that crazy dirt track, nearly fell over how ever many times. 2 water crossings, no food… wasn’t going to do it, but I did and I’m out!!

I am so glad I didn’t talk myself out of it. It was such a unique and beautiful place to ride through. And I am actually quite proud of myself!

Now back on the main road, it’s time to get knocked around for a while with the nastiest ridges they could come up with.. but my goal is to see if I can get to the border before they close.. If not, there a few houses around it I was hoping I could camp next to as a 2nd option.

I rode to the border.. they all knew me from a couple days before and waved me through. Hallelujah! I can go back to Russia – and eat Russian food! (Not to take away that I had the most amazing experience in Mongolia, but I do prefer my Russian meals.. ;-)

Now I need to ride to the first Russian gate.

Have a look beyond the gate.. paved road.. mmm I love it..!

Even though it was a nice change to have those dirt road challenges again.. kinda.

Need to ride another 20 km to the official border crossing for immigration etc. 

It was hilarious as I pulled in. It was 4:30 when I pulled in to the Mongolia border and got stamped out., probably 20 minutes later? I remember wondering, if I have to ride that many kilometres to the Russian border, would they be closed? Surely that won’t leave me locked in here between gates all night. Do they communicate with each other? But then I thought, I do have my tent.. that would actually be kind of fun! I’d be completely safe.. !

But the Russians were waiting on me. It was hilarious. They all had their overcoats on and briefcases at the door. Would have been worth a picture, but I don’t think they would have been happy for me to take the extra time.

I must add they were all completely thorough on their job even though they wanted to go home.

I think it was about 6 pm, by time we all got finished.. The last man at the little green building was standing in the road after I got out of the border gate, to bring me back in his office for my immigration stamp. He points to his watch. ‘Home… dinner!!”

I said I know, I am sorry! He smiled and stamped me in.. and then shooed me out the door!

I rode straight up to my little wooden yurt man and he was so happy to see me… however he was busy at the house next door, helping a woman deliver a baby.

So I unpacked.. no banya tonight.. Magazine was closed so I didn’t even get ramen noodles. I will have to be happy with that one candy bar and aloe vera drink I had at 2:30.

It was a tiring day.. I layed out my sleeping bag once again and went to sleep.

Novosibirsk to Mongolia

Whew! Still exhausted I pack up and start my journey to Mongolia. Both Mark (house host) and Walter had given me good tips of what to expect, where to stop, etc.

With my wonderfully handy GPS, I navigated my way through the city and started south. The road for the first 500 km is rather boring and completely full of trucks puffing out big thick black smoke. They must have no emissions laws here. I turn into one of those wild women on a bike weaving around and passing truck after truck. I just want to escape their exhaust and it seemed never ending!!

Finally past my last largish town, Barnaul, and the trucks diminish... and still with jet lag and needing to make up on some very long lost sleep, I look into the GPS for closest accommodation around the half way mark (500 km).

I see Walter had listed Ust Muni Hotel .. I didn't see a sign that said this, but I knew the GPS was telling me I was there. I asked a lady at the gate, and sure enough, that was my stop! She guided me right in!

With her grandson to show me around and a very excited young man to have an Angliski visitor!

So this gorgeous little mini-hotel is a perfect place to rest... I put my bags in my room and asked for a cafe... "Niyet...no cafe here, only magazine". Bummer, I hadn't had a meal today either, and was looking forward to a proper dinner. Oh well, I'm tired, can't be bothered... "Douche?" My favorite Russian word for "shower?"

I took a shower in their little outbuilding, and felt so much better. When I came out, towel on head, the family motion me to come over to their door... take me inside and sit me down and serve me a most wonderfully large bowl of soup, bread and tea... I know!! I know!! I won't say it this time!! I want to pay them, of coarse, "no money Sherrdi"

Then another guest comes around, I look like a wet rat eating my soup alone at the table, she leaves and comes back with her donation of treats..

Vodka, red caviar, chunks of fat and meat!! To her shock I politely declined.. I felt so bad, but I was completely full and that sort of food just isn't my thing.. luckily I got her to at least sit down with me and took photos for fun. The others came in and all was good again.

I was well fed, clean and made my way upstairs to my very warm and smell of cedarwood room.. I love that smell.. I passed out almost immediately.

Next morning it was time to get up early and tackle another day.. It's so pretty here it wasn't a hard thing to do.

Not a bad view from my room! A bit of morning river fog.. reminiscent of my Lena River barge days!!

The family and their guard dog see me off..

Right, I don't know how else to put this, but it is such a pretty autumn day in Russia, I'll just let the photos tell the rest of the story...

I took Walter's recommendation to stay at Kosh-Agach for the night before tackling the Russia/Mongolian border crossing in the morning.