Back to sea level - From Ojos to Bahia Inglesa Chile

From Camp Atacama we ride back to Camp Murray. This time I get to travel the river bed on four wheels which is super fun and very different from my wild ride a few days ago on the Husaberg! I never seem to get photos in the really difficult parts as I'm holding on with both hands.  So looking at these photos, it looks a whole lot easier than it really was.. but trust me!  Quite the experience!

I like going really fast in the rubble...  I hope the truck rental company doesn't mind.. ;-)))

Extra fun, especially since we have very little fuel and water left, the truck weighs so much less! I try to keep the wheels just to the side of the old tracks for a little better fresh grip.

I see Camp Murray, nearly there.

Back to our little home, to pack up the remaining gear.  The guys spend the rest of the day changing tires back from knobbies to street tires for the ride back to paved roads.

And the next morning.. we are officially out of here! We take a different route back to Copiapo than the one we rode to get here.  They calculated the amount of fuel needed for the motorcycles well, but not the truck.  Even after scoring some diesel from the road workers the other day, there is nowhere near enough fuel to get back to town.  We decided to head toward the Argentinian border in hopes of finding something or somebody along that route for fuel.

Even though we were not leaving Chile the lady at the border post said there is no fuel here.  But she pointed to a mining post, maybe they could sell us some fuel.  All the boys said, you have to do it alone SJ...  "Why?"  Because you are a girl and you are blonde.  If we have any chance for fuel, it's you.  Urgh!

So I drive into the mining post alone.  Went to the office, spoke in my spanish and the men were amazed, but the control guy kept telling me, they don't sell fuel here.  I understand, but anybody I can get something from?  Any work trucks, anything?  No, no, no...  so much for that blonde thing!  Until the big boss man who must have been listening in, came out of his office.

He asked how much fuel do I have.  I said EMPTY.  He took my keys out of my hands and went into the driver side of the truck, turned it on and saw the gage go nowhere.  EMPTY, he said!  Duh.. maybe blonde, but I wasn't lyin! ;-)

He ordered the guys who were telling me no, to get me some fuel.. Ha!  Nany nany boo boo.... ;-)))

I liked the boss man...

With a few high fives from the world record holders, we are back on the road with plenty of fuel to get me to Copiapo.  Woo hoo!

Not long after, it's the boys turn to refill their bikes from my stash in the truck.

I grabbed the camera a bit late, but this was the first tree, the first bit of green I have seen in nearly two weeks! The little things we take for granted! ;-)

I'm glad we came back a different way.  What a gorgeous road this is! Too bad the sun is too low to enjoy the full colors.

We arrived Copiapo in the dark.  All those meals we have been dreaming about, in my experience from this town, is not going to happen.  But we did pass a pizza place.  And voted to stop. Our first meal...... bread... cheese.. so many things we have been missing we have right here on a sidewalk in Copiapo with heaps of trucks passing by.  But it was good and we ate every bit of two very large pizzas!

The goal was to go past Copiapo about 75 km to the next town, Bahia Inglesa.  Unlike the dreadful boring mining town of Copiapo, Bahia is on the ocean and even a bit touristy.  We liked the idea of being at Camp Murray 4,527m (14,852 ft) just a few hours ago, and return this quick to sleep tonight at sea level.. Yes!  My dreams of being able to breathe again are coming true!

It was most difficult to find a place to stay in Bahia Inglesa, but we did it, and I even got my own little room/closet.  Too happy!

I could definitely breathe better, that was a nice feeling.  However, my heart is still beating super fast.  I was hoping that would stop as soon as we reached sea level as well, but it didn't want to and kept racing away, which was a worry.

The next day was a rest day in an ocean side town that will be full of eating, drinking, being merry, and internet!!!  We NEED internet.....

Armed with computer bags, we go in search of... WIFI...............

Score!  Beers are flowing!  Three Macbooks are on over drive, except for the one person who still uses Windows.. we hope he will eventually see the light.. ;-)))

Lots of messages going out to family, friends, and facebook... everyone addicted to facebook.

More imporantly, where is Kevin? I saw he put a "I knew you could do it" on my facebook world record photo. I was happy to know he could see our progress.  Did he get the Buell fixed? How far away is he?  Aha!  So good to connect with him on skype.  He said, "I knew you could do it again, really proud of you.."  in his Scottish accent.

He did finally get his bike repairs done in Lima Peru, and had just left Cusco and crossed the border to Bolivia at Copacabana.  It's been a long process getting his bike running again and he's still a long way off.  And what a story he had.  He got to the border of Peru and Bolivia where the belt on his bike broke and he had to PUSH it over the border.  Dag gone, he has more bad luck with that bike.. what a bummer.  But he had a spare belt and got it fixed straight away in the dark. Okay then! He suggested I get back on my bike and ride up to meet him, a mere 4000 km north !!?? Not sure yet Kevin.  I explained to him about my heart worrying me, and of course I don't have my own bike yet.  It was just really nice to be connected again.

So we had our full day of alcohol, food and internet.  The next morning we ride back to La Serena, Chile to the KTM shop where my bike has been waiting for me.  The mechanics there were giving it a once over while I was away to see if anything needs to be fixed or replaced other than the chain.  The guys suggested this because I have over 95,000 km on it and they insist there has to be something that needs attention.  I am looking forward to having my bike back.  I've enjoyed the truck, a nice change, but following these guys without my own motorcycle makes me jealous.

Leaving the desert along the Chilean coast and the return of even more greenery the farther south we go.

We arrived the shop and learn that the only attention me ol' bike needed was a piston.  Little bits and pieces here and there but mainly the piston.  Lukas, Barton and Walter were amazed, they said that is really good with 95,000 km!

We started the bike up in the showroom, and it was great to be reunited, but it didn't sound normal to me.  All the guys, the mechanics and the manager standing around, I said again.  "Are you sure everything is okay, it sounds so different!"  They all convinced me that I have been running on an old engine so long I forget what it used to sound like.  Okay then...

At the time, we thought we'd just load my bike up on the truck and I would finish driving the truck back to Santiago.

However, the shop manager was needing to drive his own big shop truck down to Santiago and offered to carry the Husabergs for them.  Walter and Lukas took up the offer.

Barton and I opted to ride our motorcycles to Santiago.. why not?  I was looking forward to riding again.

Once they were gone and I finished putting my panniers back on, repacking my own gear etc.  I started up the bike again.  "Barton, my bike does not sound right."  Again SJ, you haven't heard it for a while and with a new piston, it's bound to sound different until it breaks in. "Okay then.."  Who am I to argue.  These guys are all mechanics, I am not.

We got about 2 stop lights away.  I don't want to sound like a tape recorder, but "Barton, are you really sure, it sounds horrible if you ask me?"

Two more kilometers into La Serena and at a stop light, the side of my bike blew out and oil went spewing straight out near my right leg.  For F____ Sake!  I turned the bike off as soon as I could and pushed it up on the curb to get out of everyones way.  Gee whiz, what the heck was that!?

The case around the oil filter blew off and took the METAL with it!

OK, do you believe me now that the bike doesn't sound right?? ;-/ Barton went and got the shop guys to come and pick up my bike. They tried to weld the piece but it's an aluminum alloy and won't hold.  I saw another bashed up KTM 690 in the shop that is used as a rental and I asked the manager to call the owner of that bike to see if I can buy his casing and have a brand new one sent to him.  He agreed, thank goodness!  So, they quickly did the change, put oil back in the bike so Barton and I can make it to Santiago.  For such a big drama, pretty good to be back on the road so quick and it was a Sherri Jo idea.. even more surprising!

I started the bike and I hate to say it, but it still sounds like sh___.  Other than tell the mechanics to take the entire thing apart into pieces while they convince me I am crazy, there is nothing I can do about it.  So we go.

To be continued....

How HIGH can they ride on a motorcycle?

After the boys spent some time on Ojos planning their next move, the morning was full of final preparations which included attaching lots of stickers from many sponsors.  They have many hard core discussions at night around the dinner table and it's really interesting to listen in to what happens next.

My favorite visitor showed up... Hello Mr. Fox!

What they plan to do is hike and explore the best route for riding their motorcycles to a world record elevation.  There is no road to take them.  It's going to be a lot of hard work and they want to be as prepared as absolutely possible.

Even though I am staying back today, I've got the zoom lens on where one of them falls in nearly the same place I went down yesterday.  I don't feel so bad now! Here they are spinning the tires to get through the deep sand.

After the daily morning boiling of water for breakfast, a good clean of the dishes and then I'm free for a bit.  Nothing is better than getting into the truck!  The sun has been on it and it's warm enough inside I can take my winter coat off, even if just for a short time each day.  The truck stays parked here facing the morning sun.  It runs on diesel and it will not start up due to the cold until around 1 pm, even with the hood open to catch every bit of sun.  I need to start it everyday so the boys can charge camera batteries with an inverter they brought along.

Anyway, this day while reading a book I caught something out of the corner of my eye.  I looked in the rear view mirror and this big bird has landed in our camp!  I was so amazed.  I haven't seen a single bird since we left the camp at Tres Cruces nearly a week ago.  It's like a Charles Darwin moment, but unlike Charles, I carefully and quietly got my iphone camera and took a quick shot. So careful, I didn't want to turn around, so I'm using the rear view mirror.

The bird was poking around for scraps.  Seems like he and the fox know this is the place for scraps.  The bird also had little fear, just like the fox.  I moved enough that I rolled down the window, which would startle any little bird but he just kept scruffing around for any little morsel.

So.. it's boring in general, but it ended up being the excitement of my day! ;-)

In the meantime, Barton and Lukas are on a proper scouting trip.

At some point, Walter decides to return to camp and attempt driving the truck up to Camp Tejos.  They need more water and supplies they can keep in the hut up there.  I watched Walter spinning the tires in the sand for the longest time.  He'd try to get through, back up, try again, back up.. it was hard work but he eventually got through.

Late that afternoon, they all returned.. with a grand plan.

Another morning at Camp Atacama. The boys have a plan to rest today and then tomorrow morning, make the big push.  They all agree that it's getting necessary to get the job done sooner than later.  We are all getting weaker by default.

We got to bed early that night and set the alarms for 2 AM so we can be out of here by 3 AM.  They are guessing it could take 12 - 15 hours to ride the bike through sand and glaciers to the highest point.

I need to get water to boil.  It's not happening as quick as we'd like.  But I can NOT HELP but to laugh out loud and take a photo!!  My life at the moment is being on a frozen volcano in Chile with 3 men watching water boil in the middle of the night... gee whiz, I love my life! ;-))))

It FINALLY got hot and with their hand made funnels, we filled the bottles.

Now for the hike.  The only time I've been up there was on the motorcycle and I did not stay long.

Barton and Lukas hike ahead to get to the bike where they left it a couple days ago.  Walter and I walk more slowly behind.  I like to get up early in the morning and I like to walk fast, especially when I'm cold, but Walter was passing on the knowledge he got from Barton's experience.  You can NOT walk fast as much as you'd like to.  "Take slow and steady steps Sherri Jo...."

Each time I'd pick up my speed, he'd call me up on it.  And he was so right.  The higher we went, the weaker I got.  My heart is beating out of my chest from lack of oxygen. Why do Barton and Lukas make it look so easy!?!

It's hard work but it's really special at the same time.

This photo might be an accident and makes me laugh to see it, but it might also be the last shot of me alive! ;-/

Walter and I keep together the whole time, he is really good and it works well us climbing at the same pace.  In the distance we hear the bike start.  AMAZING!  Number one that they got to it so fast, because it's still dark, freezing cold and the Husaberg 570 starts on a mountain at 40% oxygen.  If knowing that doesn't sell Husaberg motorcycles in the future, I'm not sure what will.

Here they are.. we finally caught up.  Each time we got closer, they'd get on the bike and ride through a patch so fast.  As a hiker, its like "Ugh" ... but for the boys purpose, I'd say. "Go, go, go!!!!!!!!"

Sheez, and I was getting upset falling over in the sand.. Look at what these three have to face.

Ahhh... a break.  Sit down in the sun to let the feet and hands thaw out.  Barton wanted to check my feet.  I told him they are ok.  He asked how okay are they, can I feel them.  I said of course not, but I am walking on them so they must be fine.  He said that's not good enough and asked if he could push the pointy bit of my walking stick through my shoes and tell him when I feel something.  Nope.  But dag gone, Barton!  These are big boots and I have 3 layers of socks on, I doubt I'd feel anything.  He insisted I should feel something.

He told me to sit down and take my boots off now.  No way!  It's too cold up here, I want to keep them on!  He said, just so he can check my toes, then I can put them back on.  Oh well, besides the fact I was extra 'air-heady', which is saying something!  Plus I was talking in circles, he took that to be a sign.

Off came the boots, he was pinching and poking as much as he could, I didn't feel a thing.  Damn!  That is amazing!  They were very cold earlier so I was glad I couldn't feel the prickling pain of the cold, but I didn't realize they were on the verge of developing frost bite.

Barton was amazing and with his mountain guiding skills, put my bare feet under his shirt so they warm up on his chest.  He certainly knew what to do, and he did it fast.

We waited... I did my best to hold back tears.  And he ordered me down the mountain to the emergency shack at Tejos. That's what it's there for. I have never been a mountain climber or up this high in my life outside of a large airplane.  I suppose some proper training would have done me some good, but that wasn't going to happen while I have been on the move traveling on my motorcycle for over 2 years. It is what it is...

I'm a bit embarrassed, but at the same time, I am so glad that I will not slow the boys down from reaching their goal.  That is the last thing I want, so one last photo with Walter and Barton before I start walking down alone.

So important that I follow exactly the tracks we just made.  It could be so easy to get lost up here especially with the brain not operating at full speed.  However I was clear enough to take in the beauty and wanted to take some photos along the way.

There it is and what a relief.  I found the rangers track and then it's easy cruise back to the truck parked at Tejos..

I was so happy to get in that truck.  I tried to force some of these energy gel things in my mouth as I knew part of the problem is from me not eating.  And while I was still gasping for air, any bit of air, I was going in and out of consciousness for an hour or two. Not really sure, I don't wear a watch, so maybe it was only 10 minutes. But I could tell it was a while by the shadow of the sun inside the truck and when I was aware of it, I'd move so I could be in the sun as much as possible.

Up the hill, this is what the guys are up to. 

Congratulations to the Husaberg Adventure Team for their World Record!!!!  6361 mt (20,869 ft) high in the sky.  That is incredible!!! WELL DONE!!!!!

While in the truck I heard a noise. There is no noise up there, so the tiniest sound would cause me to look around.  I see one of the guys walking on the track toward me.  I jumped out of the truck.  Who is it?  What's wrong?

It was Walter!  He told me the great news of their achievement! Earlier than expected even! He was very weak as well. He said, "Thank God your here!"  I asked, what did he mean.  (I remember thinking, you just achieved this major goal in your life and you're worried about me?) He saw some walking track's that diverted away from our path and thought I may have walked the wrong way and could be lost.

I did my best to walk with my feet directly on the tracks left behind by the motorcycle tires.  But quite honestly, I'd space it sometimes and lose the track. You wouldn't think this is possible as the tracks are very clear.

Lukas and Barton are bringing the bike back together but Walter came down sooner as he was having trouble breathing. 

He sat with me in the truck for a bit.  I told him we need to get off this mountain, I think it is killing us.  He agreed, and then went into the Tejos trailer to lay down on one of their little mattresses.

About an hour later, I hear the motorcycle.  Thank goodness! 

From here the photographs stopped.  It's still afternoon but the boys have been working at extreme elevation and extreme physical ability to achieve their goal since 2 AM.  Needless-to-say once they got together again at Tejos, sat down for a moment to rest, it was quite an emotional moment for them.  They DID it!

I personally am in awe. What these guys did was beyond Amazing. Hard core. Superhumans on a motorcycle.  It's incredible to have a front row seat as I watch three men push themselves far beyond what I would have thought a human or a motorcycle could do. I know how many months and how many dollars they put into this project.  I watched them work everyday on the bikes as well as logistics. What they did going up to 6361 meters WITHOUT oxygen is a feat in itself even if they only walked.  But they did more than that.  They carried a lot of heavy gear on their backs, and RODE A MOTORCYCLE to that level to achieve a well-deserved world record. Congratulations to the Husaberg Adventure Team... job VERY well done!!!!!

Now, another reason for no photos, we have a bit of a medical issue that needs to be addressed immediately.  Young Walter's breathing at this level has a strong sound of liquid in his lungs.  Barton gave me very firm instructions that this is HAPE and to get him down to Camp Murray ASAP.

High altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) is a life-threatening form of non-cardiogenic pulmonary edema (fluid accumulation in the lungs) that occurs in otherwise healthy mountaineers at altitudes typically above 2,500 meters (8,200 ft).  Although what makes some people susceptible to HAPE is not currently known. HAPE remains the major cause of death related to high-altitude exposure with a high mortality in absence of adequate emergency treatment^Wikipedia.

That was actually quite scary.  I didn't like that sound.  Back to Camp Atacama, we quickly threw some of Walter's gear into the back, and I packed up some of my gear I would need to stay warm for the night and jumped in the truck for the long sandy ride down to Murray.  Listening to Walter, he is in fairly good spirits and continuously assures me that he's had this before.  He feels he knows the liquid will be gone by morning.

Long story short, got him upstairs at Murray and into his sleeping bag as soon as we could manage.  I stayed in the same room in the silent dark for hours listening for any signs of getting worse or better.  I would guess about 3 hours later, I could tell the gurgling sound was easing up.. Only a bit, but it was enough of a sign that I could hopefully have a little nap myself.  Somehow my brain allowed me to sleep lightly (which is not normal for me, usually quite a heavy sleeper). Any little move that man made, I'd wake up and just listen.

But very good news, by the time the sun came up, the liquid was mostly gone.  He was right.  I worried too much as usual, but I was just happy he improved so quickly.

We had to wait until the sun warmed up the truck enough so we could start the engine and go back to Camp Atacama to pack up the rest of the gear and our tents.

Lukas and Barton were there having a leisurely morning off! ;-)  Much deserved!!!  
Even I had to have a little sit down to take it all in.  This was it.. Mission completed (nearly).  Pack up, get down for one more night at Camp Murray and then we're outta here!  We have all been carrying on about which meal we want first when we get back to civilization.  Looking forward to a good meal... so much looking forward to being able to breathe!!!

Adios Camp Atacama. Adios Ojos del Salado... Thanks for a lot of incredible memories..