Panama to Colombia Part 3 - Sailing through the storm

After our day in paradise, the next day is without islands and paradise.  It's open water the remaining voyage to Colombia.

We can not sleep in our cabins.  There are no windows that open for fresh air.  The captain only runs the generators twice a day for a short time, so the toilets are completely full.  He suggests we go over the edge and what shocks us is that the waves are so high, if somebody went overboard doing their business, we would never be able to turn this big boat around to be to pick them up.  On top of that, we'd probably never know somebody was missing until it was too late, or be able to see them in the dark.  Anyway, the stale air stench downstairs on top of the heat was too much to bear.

So Kevin and I took our sleeping bags and pads up to the top roof and slept under the stars. He was like a kid in a candy store, so excited about sleeping on the roof. It was sort of like building a fort when we were kids. He had us all strapped in as we are literally on the roof. If the boat started rocking too much we would definitely roll off one side or the other!

At this stage, the sea was still calm within the island group.  About half way through the night, Kevin started throwing up a lot.  I got worried about him going over the edge, so all I could do is stay with him and get him water.  This continued until the sun came up, the poor thing.  We've been on the boat long enough that it can't be sea sickness.  I think he ate a bad lobster last night, however, the others were not sick.  So it's still a bit of a mystery.

The captain is usually in his cabin, which leaves either the staff to drive the boat.. or us!  He's doing well!  The captain is 68 (if he was telling the truth), and his young Colombian wife is around 23.  (ick...)  She more or less runs the boat, the other two young Colombians are making 3 big meals per day, washing dishes, sailing the boat, all boat maintenance.. jumping up every time the captain yells for them from his cabin.  It's all a bit crazy.

So the following day in the rough seas, we offer to help sail.

Gui, the young Canadian found that if he sails, he is not so sea-sick.  The waves are gigantic now and most of the passengers are throwing up.  I'm not sick at all.  Gui drove for as long as he could.  It was too cute.  He has heavy metal music in his ears and jamming out to the waves, having a good ol' time.  He did very well too!  Keeping the boat on course is so difficult in these waves!

As I soon found out.  One of the staff teaches me to do the same when Gui took a break.  It was really really hard to keep the boat on track!  Each gigantic wave would knock it to the side and I had to try to steer it back into the waves.  I could have used some heavy metal myself!!

Aussie Dan does his bit to help sail the ship 

This is the state of Gui when he wasn't driving.  And then I've got Kevin on the floor next to me at the captains wheel. I feel so bad for them.. and the others around the boat.  Kev's not throwing up anymore, but he's not feeling well either.  (He did take that photo of me above at the wheel though. He thought that was cool even though I was doing a horrible job...)

So sick and being in the hot smelly cabins would only make it worse.  They try to sleep and survive up on deck.

The seas got rougher and rougher.  You really needed to hold on to get around, even on this huge 85 foot steel boat.  One of the American girls asked the captain to explain safety or emergency procedures.  He said we will throw you a life jacket.  We asked where the life jackets are so we can help save each other (since he's mostly in his cabin). He said we have them everywhere.  The boat has 23 passengers for a maximum 20 passenger capacity.  So, where exactly are the life jackets??  We asked often. The German captain kept telling us this boat will never sink.  That's why he bought it.  Uh... Captain.. ever heard of the Titanic??

Finally Kevin went on a search and found a total of 8 life jackets.  He was livid!!!! Here is a photo of all the life jackets he found.  Kevin's theory why the captain wouldn't show us the life jackets in the first place is because he didn't have enough, and didn't want that issue.

So happy days have taken a turn for the worse....

We have all of our panniers and gear stuffed inside our little cabin..  Just a photo, that didn't bother us, totally understandable. On all boats space is limited.

The last night we knew we couldn't sleep on the roof.  Too dangerous, the boat was rocking and rolling big time in the huge waves.  We couldn't sleep downstairs either, so we stuck to the little spot on the floor next to the captains chair... and made the most of it. ;-)

We really needed to save a place on the floor as the only other option was the small lounge, and all of the passengers need to find a space.  This is the young German couple saving theirs at our feet.

Kevin is feeling much better and the tables of turned.  Now, he is really looking after me instead!  I wasn't sick, just a bit nervous about the bikes and the boat.  The waves are between 15-30 feet high.  It's fun for a while, then in the dark it gets a bit scary for me.  He literally just held on to me the whole night. I felt very safe in a rather unsafe situation. After going through most of the world alone, I was really grateful how he took care of me.

In the dark, Kevin did a little sound recording only, no video.  But I just heard it today and was laughing so hard!  I could tell he was using humor to take our minds off the crazy storm.

He's saying, "Whey didn't we fly...?"  It was my fault.  Sailing from Panama to Colombia sounded far more fun and adventurous than a boring flight.. for us and our bikes!  I'm not sure I sounded that way when I suggested it though.. ;-)))

We were doing everything we could to keep ourselves braced, Kevin was holding on to me tighter than ever and then BAM!!!!!  This massive wave hit and threw us over to the other side of the boat! We are all soaked, our sleeping mats, everything with sea water.  I ran downstairs to get my SPOT tracker to press the emergency button if we needed help. 

When I got downstairs, I found the wave had come through the windows of the lounge where some of the backpackers were trying to sleep.  EVERYTHING is completely broken or soaked with salt water.

I'm watching water pour in to the lower deck and cabins below through the ceiling.. all the bedding and floors are soaked as well. By miracle, the bed in our cabin is not wet.  I stayed downstairs in the smelly place holding on to whatever I could.  Kevin was pissed off and wanted to stay up on deck to keep an eye on the situation and the captain, however coming down often to check on me.

The storm finished about 2 hours later, you could totally feel it.  It wasn't like we were sleeping.. as much as we tried. The boat was getting calmer and calmer.  Kevin took my waterproof camera for more photos.  It's a sorry case when the table was one the only place these two could attempt sleep. I'm not totally sure who this is, but it looks like the Australian boys.

As with most things in life, after the storm, the sun always rises in the morning.. 

Everybody is drying out.. The motorcycles were completely covered in salt water.  Every little bit of metal on each bike is now brown or red.

Cartegena Colombia is in sight.. Hallelujah!

We are all glad this is nearly over and we'll be leaving the Independence soon.  Despite a rough couple of days, and regardless of a totally trashed boat, the young Colombian staff made us a nice big breakfast.  Kevin and his self-photo talent managed to get everyone in with one arm.. including himself!  It's good to see so many happy faces again.

It's also exciting to see South America.  I have wanted to come here all my life.. There is a huge continent ahead, and it looks like it's not only me that feels this way...

Panama to Colombia Part 2 - Kayaking San Blas Islands

With bikes already on the boat, the riders are picked up at the dock in the morning to board Independence for the morning voyage. And then we wait for the remaining passengers.  He goes back with the dinghy to pick up the backpackers who board the boat last.  The good news?  The bikers got to pick cabins first.  The bad news?  All the cabins are bad, so it wasn't that exciting..

You can see the bikes take up nearly the whole back of the boat.  It's an 85 footer, yet still I was impressed we made them fit with the small space that is usable on deck. With the bikes tied on with every spare piece of rope and tie-down strap we could find, the boys are convinced that once we are sailing, the ropes need to be adjusted due to the movement.

They were right!  We were imagining that if one bike went over the edge, it would take the rest of our bikes with it!  But they were all diligent in checking the straps regularly.  That's David from the United States on a BMW 1200gs and Conor from the UK on his Red Suzuki V-Strom.

The plan is to have a vacation from our vacation.  We are headed to the San Blas Islands which we get to explore for the next 2-3 days as part of our journey to Cartegena, Colombia.

The first island was the Grand Island were the captain dropped anchor and let us explore for 3 hours.

Being the big island, there is a village here.  We wandered and explored. 

And not far down the beach I see these gorgeous kids playing.  I couldn't help but stop to have a little chat.

They are SO friendly!!  I asked to get a photo with them and they attacked me like their long lost Aunt.  I love them!!

More exploring.. I took this photo below of Guillaume, Patrick and Kevin.  Three Canadian boys who never met in Canada, but are living the high life in San Blas Islands, Panama.  Kevin loved this photo. As soon as I took it, "You'll copy that to me, right?"  Hmmm, I'll think about it... of course you ding dong!  ;-)))

We find the Americans and the Aussies on the beach.  I just realized a difference in personalities.  All of us on motorcycles got to the island and set off to explore as much of it as we could.  The backpackers were happy just to plunck themselves down on the beach.  I felt kind of bad for the American girls. They continuously complained quite loudly about the motorcycles being on the boat.  In fairness, these backpackers are on a holiday and I might agree that the boat would have been more comfortable in holiday mode without having to crawl over bikes to get to the back deck..  We simply wanted to get from one place to another and this is our transport.  But they are literally on their vacation and fly home the day after we arrive Colombia.

Finally found a little boat to take us back to the big boat.

Needed to get back in time for dinner and the captain wants to sail during the night to our next stop.  I have to admit the staff of 3 for this boat were wonderful.  They all work so hard and they fed us very well.

Patrick and a few others were keen to jump off the boat first thing in the morning.  The showers are so gross, this is the best plan really.  Kevin noticed a kayak on board and asked the captain if we could use it.  And now he's waiting on me! 

We spotted a tiny island that had 2 palm trees, and decided to kayak there.  It was so exciting.. How often in your life do you get to have your very own island!!!

This is such a nice break from the motorcycle. Sorry, I might get a little carried away with photos now, but it was such a fun day I want to keep them as memories in my blog. ;-)

This is just awesome!!  It's wonderful to be away from an over-crowded boat.. Included is a bit of adventure by paddling the kayak through the sea.. Kevin went snorkeling with my camera for a bit.. and then I think he told me a minimum of 50 stories... Plus, we got a sun tan, which I can't usually do in my motorcycle suit... H A P P Y !!!!!!

Eventually, and I mean like hours later, we decided to get back in the kayak to check out the bigger island the captain intended us to visit.

Patrick has a super zoom lens and sent me this photo of Kev and I leaving the island in the kayak.

Here we found my favorite Aussie on the beach... Dan!   He's been away from home for over 10 years.  He rides a Kawasaki KLR with surfboard attached!  The boy knows how to live.. hey?

Aha!  We can get some coconut!!  Kevin is traveling without his machete in the kayak, so we have to let a local woman prepare one for us. Great opportunity to learn, hey Kev??  (I don't see any green ones in her pile.. ;-)

The coconut is so refreshing!!  What was even more refreshing was the wine we poured into the empty coconut and then drank that too! ;-)))  I am thinking by the look on our faces, we are quite proud of this achievement!

Everybody is happy.  Holidays in Panama!!

No.. Kevin!  I've already heard that story...!!  Tell me another one... ;-)

The girls are floating around and I love the shipwreck in the background..

We were so incredibly hot and to avoid bugs,  it just felt better to hang out in the water..  This is totally our day in paradise..

Suprisingly, nobody wanted the kayak.  We left it on the beach for others to use, as we'd been away so long on 2 tree island, and we felt a bit guilty for hogging it.  But they didn't want it!  So while sitting here, we spotted the one tree island.  Since we've already been on two tree island, wouldn't it be better to go to the one with only one?? ;-))

We went back to the Independence and confirmed with the captain about how much time before we sail.  Kev took the opportunity to load up on wine and Pringles.. smart move!  While there, a group of islanders came out in their canoe to sell the captain lobsters.  I don't eat lobster, so it didn't matter to me, but all the others were excited.  We know what's for dinner tonight and we know that it's very fresh!

We paddled on over to one tree island and set up camp.  You can see by the branches on the one palm tree....!!! that the wind has kicked up quite a bit.  But still a thoroughly enjoyable place to hang out.  I think I like the sand on this island better.. ha!  How is that.. our own island is a major special treat.  But today we got two islands to ourselves.  Amazing!!!!

So... it's getting late in the day.  With the stronger winds I was getting a bit cold.  We decided to take a walk around the island to warm up.. ha!  When I got to the other side of the island about 30 seconds later, I found part of a green t-shirt sticking out of the sand.  I pulled it out, shook it off and put it on.  It didn't smell too good.  It's certainly been there a while, but as soon as I put it on I felt better.  Think about that for a moment.  I am cold, I need something to wear.  I am on the tiniest island in the middle of nowhere.  A shirt just happened to be waiting there in the sand for who knows how long. In a few words, "Ask and you shall receive.." ???  Or.. "Anything is possible" ??? I know, that's a bit deep, but had to throw it in.

One last photo on the island.. again sorry for the overload.. need to show off my new t-shirt.  I love the color! ;-))

It's time to paddle back to the boat.  The wind is more, the waves are higher, but we still paddle back in far less time than I expected.  What a gorgeous place on the planet to be today....

Conor sent me this photo as we arrive back to the boat.

Once on board, everybody it seems was watching Kevin and I in the binoculars, or photo lens.  It really surprised me.  One told me that they thought it would be super hard in the wind for us to make it back alone.  The Swiss couple came to me and said they were thoroughly impressed how Kevin and I paddle together.  Excuse me?  She said that they watched us a lot today and noticed that we paddle totally in sync.  (I wouldn't know as I was always in front, but we did cruise at times).  She explained further that she believes this is a sign of a long and lasting relationship if you can be in sync like that.  Again... excuse me??  She was very sincere and I thought it was really cute, a theory I had never heard before.  She was really concerned as she said that she and her husband have tried to kayak on numerous occasions and they just go in circles.  I thought they were a fantastic couple.  I get how she came up with the analogy, but I don't think that is a theory I would live by.  And I don't think they should be so hard on themselves over kayak technique!  I am sure they will last.. really sure... ;-)

I told Kevin about this conversation later that night, and he said they came up to him on the boat and told him the same thing. We thought it was sweet and chuckled a bit.

Now.. the group is on to the lobster!

 

One of my best days EVER, I will always remember... thanks Kev! ;-)))