Gokceada Turkey (aka Imvros Greece)

I'm on a ferry again!!  Who'd a thought a journey on a motorcycle would include that many ferries!  Now this one will need a bit of explanation.. I am on my way to an island in north Turkey called Gokceada.. I have heard so much about this island from many years ago as it's the place my Greek friend Captain Georgios Apistolas comes from (here is a reminder photo of my friend who I speak of from my earlier post on Athens)..  I used to hear so many stories about "HIS" island, but never thought I'd actually go there!

At the time George's family lived there, it was a Greek Island.. well not technically.. it's a bit confusing, but I'll do my best.  (And I am really worried that I get this right as there is a lot of passion about this story from the Greek side as you can imagine)

When it was Greek territory, the island is called Imvros. (spelled a couple different ways)  During the Greco-Turkish war, a treaty made the island part of the Turkish Republic in 1923..  If I understand correctly, the Greek population remained and was allowed to retain their Greek citizenship.

However, in the 1970's, the Turkish government decided they wanted the Greeks off the island.. Which will explain most of the upset and what I show in the rest of this post.

This is my natural pretend Greek flag photo, I made in honor of my friend.. ;-)

Going to this island was 350 km (700 km total) off my track and I was to and fro about going this far out of the way.  Then I selfishly decided I just really didn't want to go, but George was insistent and explained how much he wanted me to see..  When you have a good friend, and something is important to them, then it's important to me too...

He sent me very clear instructions of everything I need to see and the importance of it from the Greek culture.  Sorry the image is so blurry, I couldn't get to transfer onto the blog, but just to show my list of instructions of things to accomplish in 2 days!

  

My first job was to find his friend Stratos.. who does not speak ANY English, and I do not speak ANY Greek (apart from Kalimera and Kalispera) so I understand that George has organized another friend (also a George, I will call George #2) who may be here to help with translation.  I am to go to a super small village to find Stratos at the cultural center.. He is not there and the one man who is also didn't speak English and couldn't help.. So I decide to just wander the village asking the name of Stratos and see where it gets me.

Found this lovely guy!  No English here either, but he wanted me to follow him!  Isn't he cute!

He pointed my way down a steep hill at some point and before I knew it he had turned back on his own way.. I asked the next person I saw again for Stratos.. wasn't here either the bugger!  But at least the man I asked speaks some English.. this is good!  (I know it's my responsibility to speak Greek, but I didn't get too far learning that one.. ;-) Here is the Zorlos family who helped me, Maria his wife also pretty good with English.. I mentioned I am a friend of Capt. George Apistolas and they knew him too..of coarse!  Maria was quite keen to show me some of the areas herself..!  I just got a kick that I am lost in a Greek village on a Turkish island and get invited into the home of a great family. You might be able to tell the boy can't smile as there's no way to peel his eyes away from the football.. ha!  In every country.. the boys are the same! ;-)

 

Maria showed me the house where my friend was born... several years before me, I might add.. ha!

Not long ago, the Greek people were allowed to return to the island.. most did not.  But for tradition, I am lucky to meet the ones that are here as they have come to celebrate Easter on their island.

I also learned that since the island became part of Turkey, the Greek population now tend to paint their houses in the Greek colors of blue and white.. just to be clear who lives where! 

As for the Turkish houses.. the flag is displayed in each of them including the shops.

Maria shows me her Grandfathers house, still abandoned.

Being Easter weekend, George #2 takes me around the first village on my list.. Zeytinlekoy.   Have a look at the streets.. so old... very very quiet with only a handful of people here since most is abandoned.  The majority of the families moved to either Athens Greece or Istanbul Turkey.

These buildings are empty, but he explains to me his memory as a child, this is the center of the village where they would have dances on summer nights, markets, etc.

Next he takes to show me the wash houses.. which are scattered around on different streets. I would imagine it would more rightly be called the gossip house?  ;-)  Very important meeting place for the women to wash clothes.. and a fireplace inside to make the warm water rinse cycle. ;-)  I like it!

This is Friday night and the finish of Lent for Greek Orthodox Easter..  I was invited to watch the festivities at the very tiny village church.  I don't understand a dag gone word of it, however I know about Easter and I've got a good idea what they're saying.

After this most interesting Greek Midnight resurrection service for an Aussie/American to watch ;),  they invited me back to the house where George's mother has prepared the traditional "break the lent fast" soup called Mayiritsa.. Lamb and all it's pieces and parts.  (Not for me, but I appreciate the tradition)  And... it's after 2 AM!!  (I am not hungry, nor was I fasting for the last 7 days)

But I did love the gorgeous eggs!!  That I can eat!  And with the traditional cracking of them against each other, I am proud to say my egg was the strongest.. good luck!

Really fun and unique experience for me.. time seems to stand still here, so this was truly a look at how things really used to be..  and the dedication of these people to carry on their culture here on this now Turkish island.

The following day, I set off to explore the rest of the island alone, using George #1's handy list.

First up is Karekoy, and the Saint Nicholas Church.  This is the location of the old port where the greek inhabitants were thrown out of their houses over night.. with St. Nicholas Church being their last sight. ;-(  I still don't understand why the Greeks were then taken to Istanbul Turkey (why not to mainland Greece?)

Next stop is Tepekoy..here I visit the old Greek school.   My new Greek friends tell me this is one of the main reasons that families don't return permanently to the island is due to no school and too hard/expensive to rebuild one now..

Moving on to Schinoudi you can see behind the bike and the largest town of around 3,500 people completely abandoned.  The Turkish people who were sent to live on the island did not take over these houses for some reason.

I peaked into some of the houses.. still with old clothes, stoves, etc scattered about the floors.  I can't imagine what it would be like to be in my own home one day and the next day somebody from another country sends me away forever..

 

It's now my last day, and a final Easter Service at the Greek Church in the main town Gockeada where I've been staying.

 Capt. George's cousin Anna from Athens

Maria's daughter on the left and George #2's daughter on the right.  I hate to admit, but I did not attend this second Greek service.  However the girls wanted to make sure I got my lucky Easter egg! 

These people were all so kind to invite me into their lives and spend a lot of their time explaining to me their island history.

I do not want to leave out my Turkish experience on this island.  Here's a view of my wander around town to take in a bit of this culture as well.

The boys at the small hotel I stay were really enthusiastic about my trip and blog and served me a fun Turkish meal.

Quick trip, but much accomplished.. thanks George for insisting I go to 'your' island.  Was such an honor to experience!

Now I have a 7:30 AM ferry ride back to the mainland of Turkey so I can resume my original route plan to Bulgaria.

 

For Australians, take note:  This is my 'DAWN' photo..  BECAUSE.... it turned out that on the other side of the pond where my ferry takes me is....... Gallipoli!  And at this moment I had no idea that the ANZAC day dawn services are happening..  (I knew it was coming up, but I could have sworn this took place the following weekend. ) You can imagine my surprise to get off the ferry to find so many Aussies!!  After a whole weekend of history lessons on Turkish and Greek relations, now I'm heading into MORE history of my own kind!   For NON-Australians, ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) Day is a tribute to those who died fighting at Gallipoli during World War I.

This does not even begin to show how many tourists buses on this road.. it went on for many many kilometers.. they must have booked every bus in Turkey for this!

By time the ferry dropped us off,  the actual service was finished.  But I was proud to find this guy!  For those who love Aussie Rules Football, it's Michael O'Laughlin who used to play for the Sydney Swans. (sorry again for another fuzzy photo.. not doing too well in this post!  My non-interested photo helper and I forgot to check afterwards)

Aussie Rules Footy Star - Michael O'Laughlin  

Australian Football Team TV Interview

 ANZAC Day - Gallipoli, Turkey

One late morning view of the Cove before I head up the road! How funny and what a coincidence to find myself here.. didn't have the slightest plan to do so, especially on a motorcycle!.. Even though I'd like to lie and say that I had always planned to be here on this day in honor of my own country.  But respect to all the ANZAC's..better late than never?  ;-) 

Site of World War I landing of the ANZAC on 25 April 1915. Wikipedia Following the landing at Anzac Cove, the beach became the main base for the Australian and New Zealand troops for the eight months of the Battle of Gallipoli.

Pretty big stuff.  Amazing to just "land" here myself. What a great day so far and it's only 9 AM..!

Istanbul Turkey

Finally, I've made it to the top of Turkey!  And saved the really big city for last. Istanbul! (Formerly known as Constantinople) I get a bit disappointed as there is so much of Turkey I have missed.. I need at least a month in each country!! ;-(

I was and I was not looking forward to Istanbul.. the mere size of the place scared the bejeebers out of me and from the horror stories I heard, you are totally risking your life on a motorcycle there.  The city itself has a population of over 13 million people and it's a 100 km from one end to the other.. unreal..

On the other hand, I knew this is a great place full of amazing history and culture, and I didn't want to just pass it up.

Riding here from Pamukkale was easy, but I thought I'd stay the night outside the city if I can, and be fresh when I go to tackle the traffic. Seriously, I had so many warnings about riding my motorcycle in Istanbul, I was super worried and didn't want to chance being really tired when I go in.  Wouldn't you know, Doug Wothke again comes to the rescue and says, "I have a friend in Sakarya on the way to Istanbul you should meet"..

So that night I ride into town, a very busy place 150 km east of Istanbul yet you'd think it's part of the city already! Found a cheapish place to stay and set off to find this Erol and his biker bar.

 

Never know who I'm meeting or what to expect, but I can tell you, as soon as I mentioned Doug Wothke's name, they were happy! If Doug is a friend of mine, then say no more!!  I can't understand much of Turkish language, but they went on and on about Doug since I can at least hear that name in there!  

Erol wanted to see my bike parked on the street outside the hotel.. he doesn't speak ANY English, so we are communicating mostly by sign language, which is hilarious but we get there!  He goes into the front door of the place I stay, and has a talk with the guy at the front desk.  I assume he is telling him to keep an eye on the bike all night (parked on the busy sidewalk at the front door - in the way of pedestrians I might add).  But that's what they wanted me to do!

Next thing I know, Erol whips out his wallet and pays for my room.. what?? No way...!!!  He can't do that!  Too late..  I was in a panic and messaged Doug immediately once a guilty me made it back to my room.. Doug was laughing and said, it's normal for Turkish hospitality..get over it!  Staying in somebody's house is one very generous thing, but to pay the room of somebody you only met minutes before?  That is serious hospitality!

Here is very proud Erol... look at that face!  ;-)  What a great great guy...

It was good to meet the bikers here this night,  and we made a plan for me to move on in the morning to time it well with the traffic.. But first wonderful Didem and Erol continues with the Turkish hospitality tradition of a BIG breakfast!!

Don't get too crazy, this tray if for the 3 of us.. ;-)  Poly couldn't get into having vegetables for breakfast when she was traveling with me.. but I like it!  It's just good whole food.. hard boiled egg, cucumber, tomato, piece of bread with some honey.  I might continue doing this when I get home.

THANK YOU Erol and friends.. I am so glad I stopped here... you're the best!

Now to tackle the highway into Istanbul.. I take their suggestions and get on the toll road to make it easy..  I get to the gate, nothing happens.  No ticket comes out.. no buttons.. and nobody works at ANY of the booths.  There is a building on the outside. I park my bike and found a man inside asking how this works.. He says I have to pay him 50 Turkish Lira (31 USD) while he's rubbing his fingers together wanting money.. He also didn't speak a lick of English.. but I said 50?  He said "evet" (yes).. I made hand gestures as I was to return to the bike to get money.. but the guys had already told me it didn't cost much to take this road, and the fact the man I talked to had no printed ticket or info in writing to say this is the price. I find it hard to believe all those cars passing through are paying 50 Lira!!  I just get on my bike and go..  worried all the way the police will come after me, but had to do it...

When I went through the final gate, I didn't have a ticket to insert.. again, no human beings there just automatic machines.. what the heck can I do??  I go on through with red lights and sirens going off. I see a policeman nearby.. he's not bothered by my escape but I went to ask him anyway. He did his best to explain to me that I do have to pay, but I will need to go to a specific bank and explain to THEM why no ticket.. etc.. What???  It's all just super weird for me, so I didn't do that either..

So the reason for no photos?  It's been raining the whole way big time..

I find a place to stay.. and head out the next morning to explore the top spots.. but that big rain was not going to let up for anything. 

I went and visited some of the most visited sites in the city.. Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, etc. completely drenched! 

Now these photos are from the next day, as I wander around the city.. never made it back to the most important places to see for decent photos even though I had such intentions... however, outside of those typical tourist stops, this is my view of Istanbul. (Don't get me wrong, it just turned out this way.. those tourist sites were amazing and I would certainly tell anyone I know going to the city not to miss them!)

My bike stayed nicely tucked up against the building and I set off on foot.  The traffic to me wasn't dangerous, there was just far too much of it and very slow!

I'm wandering around the neighborhood where I stay.. and I thought it was so cool to see that kids still play marbles..  must be the oldest game on the planet..

Wandered into a different neighborhood and I am feeling the 13 million people about now!!

A very very Muslim city as is the rest of the country..

It's time to pray.. in the street.

I've not been to a predominately Muslim country before this one, but one thing they love to do is sing loudly into a speaker several times a day, calling everyone to pray.  I can tell you, there are some dreadfully horrible prayer singers!  (sorry Turkey friends ;-) But it's their culture and I tried to sing along with my own horrible voice to cope until it was over.. ;-) Here the guys are following the call and come outside with their matts in preparation.

The streets are quite organized. There is a street with just tools, and another street with nuts and bolts, a street of blankets and pillows, but the street with the wedding attire got my attention!

Imagine wearing that on your head when you get married!  I don't mean to be rude, but it looks a wee bit uncomfortable?  ;-/

Far out!! Those are some serious wedding dresses..!!




















Reminds me, I didn't get a photo, but I saw a young couple arrive Pamukkale at the last post.. She was in the supersize bright pink gown with all the glitter on her face and hair.. just like you see here.  I thought they were going to a prom, but they must have just been married.. oops!

And a little more of a most common attraction.. the food!

Special Turkish dessert, rice pudding called Sutlac. You see it everywhere and there are many flavors to choose from.  One flavor is chicken!  I didn't order but I tasted it and it was good and sweet, with bits of chicken inside.. odd, but I liked it.  I chose the one with green cardomon I think is what it was..  And Angelos, whom is a close childhood friend of Greek friend George, offered to meet and he went for the berry.  So much good food in Turkey!!!  I didn't know I would like it so much..

Now for some important shopping, in the central Bazaar..

I know, I know... it's really touristy, but ever since I arrived this country, I love these things!  I still can't buy any of it, but doesn't hurt to look!

One thing you will see EVERYWHERE in this country is their flag.. 

 

I also like the street sales of special treats.. cheap, fun and convenient. The man calls loudly along the street, like the Ice Cream trucks in America! ;-)  My favorite time of day.. always! 

 I bought 2.. because I thought he was cute..! ;-)

Here comes another guy.. plenty of competition in this neighborhood!

This is a walk around my neighborhood at night..  wouldn't have looked much different a hundred years ago.. and it didn't feel unsafe at all... even amongst many abandoned buildings.

This was the most dangerous thing I saw.. two big girls taken the boy out for his play gun.. ! ;-/

And that concludes my Istanbul Turkey experience!  I did meet some great guys at a rideturkey.com meeting.  I liked this group of riders, a real mix of bikes and people.  They get together every Wednesday night for their "meeting", but it's mostly to have a drink and something to eat together.. I arrived very late, but it was still fun to have a chat.. Thanks again for inviting me Bahadir!  If you get into Istanbul, you should drop them  a line.

And I also might say that the traffic was not a problem AT ALL!!  I must have experienced far worse than Istanbul in other cities, because it was all really normal to me.. as usual, the things I worry the most about is just a waste of time..  See you!! ;-)