Welcome to New Zealand!

After 40+ hours flying from Indiana to Auckland, New Zealand via Washington DC, San Francisco and Sydney, Australia, I finally got a few hours sleep at a late night airport hotel (yuk).  First thing in the morning the lovely girl from TNL Shipping, Deanne, picked me and my luggage up from the hotel on her way to work to take me to my bike.. so nice!  They had everything organized, I only had to sign a paper, pay the bill and leave.

Unfortunately the bike was still not functioning from the breakdown in Uruguay, but not a worry.  I had organized well in advance to have the Auckland KTM dealership pick me and the bike up in a truck and to the mechanic to see if he can perform a miracle.  I've come to this country only hoping!!  Fingers crossed I didn't waste heaps of money in shipping!

While I was waiting in the office, Dick Hubbard called me.. What?  Who knows me here??!! I had just missed meeting Dick and his wife Diana in Ushuaia as they were riding the tough roads on their epic Alaska to Ushuaia journey.  They'd met up with Mark Donham along the road in Chile, whom you've seen a few times in this blog. He introduced me to his Kiwi friends online.  Even though I had not met the Hubbards in person, there they were on the phone saying, "Sherri Jo, welcome to New Zealand.  Now we're coming to pick you up to spend Easter weekend with us.."  Okay!!

I left my KTM behind at the shop and then we went to the BMW shop to see the Hubbards bike which had also just arrived from Buenos Aires.  Dick is proudly showing me his stickers from the Americas.. and we start comparing notes!

They live in the most beautiful modern home with superb views of Auckland and I can't feel more lucky.  Dick and Diana are so incredibly kind and generous and treated me like family the moment I arrived.  And thanks goes to Mark for introducing us.  In this photo Dick wanted me to sit in the same chair with the same pose as he took of Mark a few weeks ago.  He even made sure we had the beer bottles lined up exactly right!

I can not tell you how wonderful it feels to be in such a civilized clean modern country!  I do not discredit my amazing experiences over the last 16 months from Mexico down to Argentina.  They have their own character which I love, but New Zealand is feeling very good at the moment!

Dick takes me on one of his daily super power walks.  I'm always up for a great morning walk!

Then he drove me down to Piha.. a very popular beach for the locals.. We stopped for a cup of tea.. because we can!

Another day he gave me a tour of One Tree Hill, which is actually at the top of one of the 46 volcanoes in the Auckland area. One Tree Hill is also the site of a long gone Maori fortification.  The one tree that used to be on the summit was cut down by a Maori man to bring attention to the injustices he believed had been inflicted upon the Maori people by the New Zealand government..  It has now been replaced with a concrete monument.

Bronze statue of a Maori warrior at the site of their ancient fortification on One Tree Hill.

Easter time!  When I had booked my flights last January to arrive New Zealand, I had not even considered the holiday calendar.  It was really bad timing for me to arrive now, but the Hubbards have made this an Easter to remember.  Being that they've created and own Hubbards Cereals and Muesli's - the top brand for all of New Zealand, a morning doesn't go by without my favorite brekkie.  They've just released 6 new flavors in the supermarkets and I will have to experiment with all of them, just to give proper first-hand feedback, right?  I think the only thing they heard come out of my mouth was, "Oh man I love that one!  Oh man, that one's good too!" Really fun flavors, soooo yum!

Easter breakfast!

They also have a chocolate Easter Bunny on a motorcycle.. how perfect is that?? Love it!!!!!

Easter services at church.

After lunch we went out for a wander around the neighborhood with Diana.  She is so friendly and outgoing.. she walks right up to this guy who is cooking a meal for his family in the park.  She found out his name, where he's from and how long he's been living in New Zealand.  Then she thought, "hey, there is a fantastic cooktop we can use!'  When we returned home Diana says to Dick, "You know there is a free cooker in the park, we can walk down there anytime and make a meal!"  Dick says, "Or we can cook here... in our house!"  Right there, clearly the difference between Man and Woman.. ha!

The lovely churchyard we strolled through is full of settlers history.

This beautiful sunset view to Auckland CBD photo I took from their house and marks a perfect ending.  Tomorrow morning is an early rise to ride the bike out the Coromandel and join Mark on the road for a couple of days before continuing on my own journey around the country.

Good morning sunshine! Luckily the bike has been fixed up.. all related to that fuel system problems from Argentina.

I savor my tea in this beautiful place quietly in my Rukka gear.. before anyone else gets up.

I have to include this photo I took from inside.  It's so funny. Dick was the Mayor of Auckland for 3 years (2004-2007) and this is a political cartoon from that time.. his opponent was John Banks.

 
Farewell photo.. I always hate to say goodbye to people I really enjoy.  I never seem to get used to it. Thanks again for EVERYTHING!!!

You wouldn't believe.  I walked down to my motorcycle in the garage and there is a pool of fuel below it.. Now what??!!  I have a guess, but I called the same mechanics and they came to get the bike in a truck straight away.

I've had this problem before, so I think I know what it is, but I let them tell me.  When they put the fuel injector back on, the 0-ring is delicate and it either ripped or broke.  All it takes is to put a new O-ring back in and I was good to go.. whew!

Now I need to go meet Mark Donham. Mark and I both have local sim cards from New Zealand so we are able to keep in contact as I ride out to Coromandel.  I let him choose where we meet up and where we'll be staying tonight and he gave perfect riding instructions.

When I pulled in to the site.. I didn't even get my helmet off yet before he hands me a beer! The last time I saw Mark was in Ushuaia Argentina for Christmas and New Years..

We will be staying here at Hot Water Beach, where he's been advised the beach experience is worth checking out.  There is an underground hot water river that flows through here to the ocean.  At low tide, you can dig out the sand and the water will fill like your own personal natural hot tub.  You couldn't dig too deep though as the water is unbearably hot!  The trick was to get the right mix of some ocean cold water flowing in to your hot hot-tub.

Then we went for a ride to the north of Coromandel, a peninsula on the east coast.  Lots of curvy roads.  The guys at the motorcycle shop in Auckland all tell me that these are the roads they prefer to ride on the weekends.

It wasn't the most ideal day weather-wise for touring the Coromandel.

We did stop at a cafe, which was well worth the desert I shouldn't be eating in the middle of the day!

We decided to keep the same camp site and just leave the gear behind near the base of the peninsula. The following morning is another opportunity to walk on Hot Water Beach at sunrise.  Just gorgeous!

Time to pack up the bikes!

As we were leaving the little cabin, I did a double take on the beer bottles we've left behind. They were perfect for washing down the local fish and chips.. It's been 3 years since I've had fish and chips!! I can't take half credit though.. Mark had a bit of a collection going before I arrived.. right?? ;-)

That's the end of our little reunion.  Mark wants to go back to Auckland for several days to prepare his bike for shipping.  Then he's flying home again to the United States for a while before returning to travel on his bike in Australia.  He just had a home visit before coming to New Zealand as well!  I've been to USA to visit my family, but my home is in Australia, and I've not been home since I rode my bike out of the garage on June 1, 2010.  It's a different way of thinking, but I have done that on purpose.  When I set off to achieve this goal, it will feel that much bigger when I ride my motorcycle in to my driveway not having seen it since I left, goal complete (hopefully!).

I wizzed past Mark, waved goodbye.. and I'm headed to the north of the north island!

Istanbul Turkey

Finally, I've made it to the top of Turkey!  And saved the really big city for last. Istanbul! (Formerly known as Constantinople) I get a bit disappointed as there is so much of Turkey I have missed.. I need at least a month in each country!! ;-(

I was and I was not looking forward to Istanbul.. the mere size of the place scared the bejeebers out of me and from the horror stories I heard, you are totally risking your life on a motorcycle there.  The city itself has a population of over 13 million people and it's a 100 km from one end to the other.. unreal..

On the other hand, I knew this is a great place full of amazing history and culture, and I didn't want to just pass it up.

Riding here from Pamukkale was easy, but I thought I'd stay the night outside the city if I can, and be fresh when I go to tackle the traffic. Seriously, I had so many warnings about riding my motorcycle in Istanbul, I was super worried and didn't want to chance being really tired when I go in.  Wouldn't you know, Doug Wothke again comes to the rescue and says, "I have a friend in Sakarya on the way to Istanbul you should meet"..

So that night I ride into town, a very busy place 150 km east of Istanbul yet you'd think it's part of the city already! Found a cheapish place to stay and set off to find this Erol and his biker bar.

 

Never know who I'm meeting or what to expect, but I can tell you, as soon as I mentioned Doug Wothke's name, they were happy! If Doug is a friend of mine, then say no more!!  I can't understand much of Turkish language, but they went on and on about Doug since I can at least hear that name in there!  

Erol wanted to see my bike parked on the street outside the hotel.. he doesn't speak ANY English, so we are communicating mostly by sign language, which is hilarious but we get there!  He goes into the front door of the place I stay, and has a talk with the guy at the front desk.  I assume he is telling him to keep an eye on the bike all night (parked on the busy sidewalk at the front door - in the way of pedestrians I might add).  But that's what they wanted me to do!

Next thing I know, Erol whips out his wallet and pays for my room.. what?? No way...!!!  He can't do that!  Too late..  I was in a panic and messaged Doug immediately once a guilty me made it back to my room.. Doug was laughing and said, it's normal for Turkish hospitality..get over it!  Staying in somebody's house is one very generous thing, but to pay the room of somebody you only met minutes before?  That is serious hospitality!

Here is very proud Erol... look at that face!  ;-)  What a great great guy...

It was good to meet the bikers here this night,  and we made a plan for me to move on in the morning to time it well with the traffic.. But first wonderful Didem and Erol continues with the Turkish hospitality tradition of a BIG breakfast!!

Don't get too crazy, this tray if for the 3 of us.. ;-)  Poly couldn't get into having vegetables for breakfast when she was traveling with me.. but I like it!  It's just good whole food.. hard boiled egg, cucumber, tomato, piece of bread with some honey.  I might continue doing this when I get home.

THANK YOU Erol and friends.. I am so glad I stopped here... you're the best!

Now to tackle the highway into Istanbul.. I take their suggestions and get on the toll road to make it easy..  I get to the gate, nothing happens.  No ticket comes out.. no buttons.. and nobody works at ANY of the booths.  There is a building on the outside. I park my bike and found a man inside asking how this works.. He says I have to pay him 50 Turkish Lira (31 USD) while he's rubbing his fingers together wanting money.. He also didn't speak a lick of English.. but I said 50?  He said "evet" (yes).. I made hand gestures as I was to return to the bike to get money.. but the guys had already told me it didn't cost much to take this road, and the fact the man I talked to had no printed ticket or info in writing to say this is the price. I find it hard to believe all those cars passing through are paying 50 Lira!!  I just get on my bike and go..  worried all the way the police will come after me, but had to do it...

When I went through the final gate, I didn't have a ticket to insert.. again, no human beings there just automatic machines.. what the heck can I do??  I go on through with red lights and sirens going off. I see a policeman nearby.. he's not bothered by my escape but I went to ask him anyway. He did his best to explain to me that I do have to pay, but I will need to go to a specific bank and explain to THEM why no ticket.. etc.. What???  It's all just super weird for me, so I didn't do that either..

So the reason for no photos?  It's been raining the whole way big time..

I find a place to stay.. and head out the next morning to explore the top spots.. but that big rain was not going to let up for anything. 

I went and visited some of the most visited sites in the city.. Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, etc. completely drenched! 

Now these photos are from the next day, as I wander around the city.. never made it back to the most important places to see for decent photos even though I had such intentions... however, outside of those typical tourist stops, this is my view of Istanbul. (Don't get me wrong, it just turned out this way.. those tourist sites were amazing and I would certainly tell anyone I know going to the city not to miss them!)

My bike stayed nicely tucked up against the building and I set off on foot.  The traffic to me wasn't dangerous, there was just far too much of it and very slow!

I'm wandering around the neighborhood where I stay.. and I thought it was so cool to see that kids still play marbles..  must be the oldest game on the planet..

Wandered into a different neighborhood and I am feeling the 13 million people about now!!

A very very Muslim city as is the rest of the country..

It's time to pray.. in the street.

I've not been to a predominately Muslim country before this one, but one thing they love to do is sing loudly into a speaker several times a day, calling everyone to pray.  I can tell you, there are some dreadfully horrible prayer singers!  (sorry Turkey friends ;-) But it's their culture and I tried to sing along with my own horrible voice to cope until it was over.. ;-) Here the guys are following the call and come outside with their matts in preparation.

The streets are quite organized. There is a street with just tools, and another street with nuts and bolts, a street of blankets and pillows, but the street with the wedding attire got my attention!

Imagine wearing that on your head when you get married!  I don't mean to be rude, but it looks a wee bit uncomfortable?  ;-/

Far out!! Those are some serious wedding dresses..!!




















Reminds me, I didn't get a photo, but I saw a young couple arrive Pamukkale at the last post.. She was in the supersize bright pink gown with all the glitter on her face and hair.. just like you see here.  I thought they were going to a prom, but they must have just been married.. oops!

And a little more of a most common attraction.. the food!

Special Turkish dessert, rice pudding called Sutlac. You see it everywhere and there are many flavors to choose from.  One flavor is chicken!  I didn't order but I tasted it and it was good and sweet, with bits of chicken inside.. odd, but I liked it.  I chose the one with green cardomon I think is what it was..  And Angelos, whom is a close childhood friend of Greek friend George, offered to meet and he went for the berry.  So much good food in Turkey!!!  I didn't know I would like it so much..

Now for some important shopping, in the central Bazaar..

I know, I know... it's really touristy, but ever since I arrived this country, I love these things!  I still can't buy any of it, but doesn't hurt to look!

One thing you will see EVERYWHERE in this country is their flag.. 

 

I also like the street sales of special treats.. cheap, fun and convenient. The man calls loudly along the street, like the Ice Cream trucks in America! ;-)  My favorite time of day.. always! 

 I bought 2.. because I thought he was cute..! ;-)

Here comes another guy.. plenty of competition in this neighborhood!

This is a walk around my neighborhood at night..  wouldn't have looked much different a hundred years ago.. and it didn't feel unsafe at all... even amongst many abandoned buildings.

This was the most dangerous thing I saw.. two big girls taken the boy out for his play gun.. ! ;-/

And that concludes my Istanbul Turkey experience!  I did meet some great guys at a rideturkey.com meeting.  I liked this group of riders, a real mix of bikes and people.  They get together every Wednesday night for their "meeting", but it's mostly to have a drink and something to eat together.. I arrived very late, but it was still fun to have a chat.. Thanks again for inviting me Bahadir!  If you get into Istanbul, you should drop them  a line.

And I also might say that the traffic was not a problem AT ALL!!  I must have experienced far worse than Istanbul in other cities, because it was all really normal to me.. as usual, the things I worry the most about is just a waste of time..  See you!! ;-)