Showing posts with label Todos los Santos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Todos los Santos. Show all posts

Baja California South, Todos los Santos MEXICO

We continue south in Baja California Mexico toward Cabo San Lucas.  Interestingly, many people told us not to bother with this town.  Far too touristy and expensive they say.

Luckily we have been offered a place to stay and camp by a Canadian couple Lars and Michelle. They live just north of Cabo in a smaller town called Todos Santos.  So that's where we head.

Lars is a keen Kawasaki KLR rider, and since I've seen him ride, that's an understatement! A true madman on a motorcycle!  I ask Lars why the spring on his brake lever is broken and not fixed and he says, I don't use my brakes anyway!  Okay then.. I could learn some skills from this guy! ;-)

We arrive their property so near the ocean and surf of the west coast.  I think I'm gonna like it here.


This is THE playground... and a real inspiration of a lifestyle I might like to strive for.  The cozy little camper under the palapa roof, a four wheeler, the motorcycle, the big ocean sand and surf.. they've got it all!

I set up my little tent in their yard and really really really wanted to go for a sunset walk along the beach.  I've been in northern North America most of the summer and fall, and only until we got this far south, can I take off my shoes/boots, walk away from the bike and enjoy warm weather on the sand.


But first, I must tell you these people are really after my own heart.  I haven't mentioned yet that the day before we arrived, they decided to rescue two abandoned puppies.  My heroes...

First job was the worm medicine, leaving their little fat bellies back to skin and bone.



I can't help but to want to hold them and keep them warm (not that they need it, but "I" needed an excuse to hold them right?).  They snuggle up on my belly while I try to do a little work on my computer..


Oh no....now I'm totally in love.....!!


James won't touch the babies.. I ask him why, because I know he loves animals too.  So much, he became a vegetarian at a very young age..  He's determined not to get attached to the puppies.  I understand that, but I can't help myself.  I might even have to sneak them into my bag when I leave in a couple days.  Actually, come to think of it, both James and Lars where both about keeping the distance. Both seemed to have the same philosophy not to give them much attention since this is not their permanent home.  Michelle and I are all about making sure they are happy and giving them all the attention and love they need to survive!  An eye opening difference between how some men and women think!

OK, must walk on beach now....







I found Michelle out here!


This is something Michelle enjoys with her dog every night.  I also take my dog to the beach every morning where I live in South Australia.  Every dog I've ever seen on the beach is happy, all of them!  I miss my boy, Luke.... ;-(  I've been away from him 2 years now, can't believe it.



How good is this??

Then our wonderful hosts make us a proper campsite meal, including the beers AND wine.  We are more than spoiled.. again!


 Can't help it.. I love these babies!!!



The next day they offer to take us around their neck of the woods.  Lars has a very damaged foot from a small KLR mishap (maybe he could have avoided with functional brakes?? ;-)), so he's out of moto commission for a while.  Instead we opt to all go together in the newest toy they have acquired.  A little and very used 4WD with a palapa style roof!


This man loves his toys.  Michelle and I know it's best to just hang on in the back for dear life!



(this will NOT be our accommodation for the night.. ;-)


Well, by the look of these roads, they would be good fun on the bike! The more they explain the area to us, it seems to be mostly a place full of holiday homes or trailers from Canadians or Americans during the winter.  


Regardless of the trouble this new little truck has, I love it anyway and have full confidence the boys will get it going again..  Isn't it cute?!?


They did fix it and we went to lunch for a reward!


I tried the fish tacos for the first time.  Everyone has told me Baja is a classic for fish tacos, but I have been so in love with the other stuff, I haven't gotten around to trying them yet.. today's the day!

And YUM they were !!

Okay, the tour is nearly over and we make our way back to camp..



I love love love all the hummingbirds in Lars and Michelle's yard.  I tried so hard to get photos of them but they are fast as lightening.

My first success was finding one on a fence, not actually buzzing madly around for something sweet.


Gotcha!


Well I want to take advantage of this wonderful place, one more trip to the beach..


I might even attempt to get some desperately needed color to my skin.


I suppose I should show a bit of the actual town of Todos los Santos.  They have a Hotel California here, as do most Baja California towns, but the one here claims to be THE Hotel California from the "Eagles" song.  Seems to not be proven though..


It's a great comfortable town.. Has most everything you need and from what I understand about Cabo San Lucas, we are much more content in a place like this.


We had THE best time with these two.. but we must leave, not only them but those gorgeous puppies! Thank you again for the most amazing hospitality, doesn't get any better than this!!



Update:  Lars and Michelle sent me this photo which was taken the day before they went to their new home several weeks after we left Baja.  Mission accomplished.  They still look 'oddly' cute AND very healthy. As I've mentioned before, Mexico along with many other countries have a huge stray dog population.  The dogs live on the streets, many of them starving with broken legs, tails, nobody cares (and if they did, they don't have the money or means to help them). I could go on about the sights I've seen with suffering animals.  On my way here, I saw a man run over a little white dog, pulled over laughing and went into a shop to get a beer.  I'm sorry to paint the bad picture, but it makes seeing the success and luck of these two dogs even better. Great job and even greater to know people like Lars and Michelle are still out there helping the animals, my true heroes.. 

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San Ignacio, Loreto and La Paz Mexico, Baja California


Adios to San Ignacio... really loved this little town and would be one I hope to go back to someday.

Back on the road to the bottom of Baja California Sur.  What's fun about Baja is if you follow the main road from top to bottom, it changes which side of the peninsula you ride on a couple times. So from San Ignacio we temporarily ride down the east side before we have to go across the middle to the west again.


Ooooooo, that is a pretty blue...


We actually passed this beach up.  I caught up with James and asked if he'd mind if we pulled back around to the beach and I found he was already thinking the same thing.  We haven't been on the road that long this morning, but you gotta do what you gotta do..






I know, I took far too many photos, I just really liked this beach.



Compared to the last blog post on the dirt track to Santa Martha, this is one seriously easy smooth day.. relax and ride!


I'm loving the south of Baja, it's remote, beautiful, great weather.  I can see why so many people from the north spend their winters here.


Oops, another pretty view, gotta pull over for this one too. Some days are just like that.



You're not going to believe, we stop again.  It's really not normal (for me anyway) to stop this much.  It just seems to be the way of the day, and why not?  We are not in a hurry..

Needless to say, we didn't get too far today.  Our stop for the night is Loreto, Mexico.  We wanted to find a place to camp here, because the next logical town to stop is La Paz, which is just a bit too far to get to before dark.

We looked and looked for camping grounds.  Ended up pulling into a hotel just to see if they knew where one is.  He gave us better directions to one as well as other cheap places to stay in town (his own hotel was a bit too expensive for us.) We thought it was so kind that he gave us lots more info on the cheaper places to stay in town.  The American owner said, "Look, I've been in your shoes traveling long distance, I would hope somebody would tell me the same"  Cool guy!

We followed up, the campground was closed (season or economy?) The really cheap places were worse than cheap and the ones that were "livable" were booked out (a positive sign for the economy..).  After lots of driving around and stopping in every place available, we decided to go back to the nice guy.

He out-did himself this time.  He said there is a little guest cabin out the back that he has not been renting out.  We can stay back there, but it doesn't include use of the pool (fine by me!) and it's so hidden on the property our bikes will be safe.  We had a look and could NOT believe our luck!  He gave us an unbelievable good price and made us swear we never tell anybody.  Sold!


Check it out!!  This is a proper home!  Seriously, this guy was really good to us.  I'd tell you where it is, but I promised...


Including a fantastic kitchen!!  We can make our own meal tonight.. what should we make.. can't wait!


We go out for a walk around town in search of some food..   this isn't what I had in mind though... ;-)


As you can see, there is nobody around.  The streets are empty.  Our options for cooking were not good and even though I was excited about it, do I really want to wash the dishes when I can get a meal here for so cheap??

Again the owner of the place helped us out, like we deserve more!  He told us where he goes to eat in town and suggested his favorite, chile rellenos.  I told him I'm not much into spicy food especially a gigantic chile!  He said, there is nothing spicy about it unless you want it to be.  So we decide to give it a try.

I am in love again!  Why have I never had this dish before!! (because the sound of eating a chile scares me).  I thought quesadillas were my Mexican favorite, not now.. move over, this is my new favorite!!

j

We only stayed one night as much as we felt lucky enough to stay longer, we also felt guilty about taking advantage of this guy for more.  So pack up and on the road in the morning.


This is like a touring bike blog post.. sometimes I'm a dirt bike and sometimes I'm a cruiser. ;-)  Hence, the dual-sport choice!!

We have to head down the east coast a little bit longer before we cross the middle over to the west side.

And it doesn't take long before we find another great beach!


Do I really need to stand up on the ladder to get a better view...  (??)


After all the beauty of the land and water around us, I was surprised that crossover to the west side was so flat and boring! Where did Baja go??  It's not very far, only 50 miles or so.  I've been spoiled so long, I have to talk myself into coping with it. ;-))


I only have these photos of the boring part because James took them.. I couldn't be bothered!  But glad I have them now.

We cross to Ciudad Insurgentes (what a name!) and then go south again, eventually ending up on the east coast again!  Our goal is to reach La Paz.  Being the worrier that I am, I want to find the ferry office as we plan on taking it in a few days over to mainland Mexico.  Ferries always have a bit of a process to go through, and I like to find them and sort it out rather than just show up and hope I can get on a boat straight away.


We pull into La Paz, and to our luck, the gps's show exactly where the ferry terminal is.  

The one thing my Garmin gps can't tell me though is that there is a parade up ahead!

 James is thrilled...


We hang out the back and slowly slowly crawl along the waterfront.  Even the moto-cop is thrilled about it!


Plenty of horses in this parade and we manage to get behind the pooper scoopers.

Ooooo! Finally, they turn right on another street and we are free!


Not for long....


After sorting out our ferry plan and an overnight in La Paz, tomorrow we head down to the bottom near Cabo San Lucas.  Cheers!

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