Perth - "biking" with Jim Cairns

These interesting and unexpected experiences keep coming up in Perth.. is it the trip itself, or is it because I am actually in one spot for longer than a sleep in the tent..

So, if you have seen on my Facebook page about the group "Against the Grain", you will know I met up with these amazing men who are organizing a journey on quad bikes to re-visit their motorcycle accident sites that left them disabled.

Jim, who rides a hand cycle regularly, was keen to get me out and try it.  I did!

Thursday afternoon I met Jim at his friend Peter's house to borrow a bike.

Peter (left), is not part of the Against the Grain group, but he is a hand cycler (is that a word?), of which Jim tells me has won a couple competitions with this bike I am riding.

The gears and brakes are nearly the same as I am used to, however they have an extra job of actually powering the bike as well..

Okay boys, you can explain it as much as you want, but I think just get Sherri Jo on the road and I'll work it out by trial and error.

This is really a good experience!  Number one, I am so impressed to see how these men live as well!  So independent!  I love their passion for cycling, and so happy they invited to me experience it!

Number 2, Sherri Jo has been missing the gym for quite a while now, and looking forward to a decent work out.  However!  My arms have always been the weakest part of me in the gym, so go easy on me!

We went onto the bike track and a really nice hill.. how fun!!

Then over the bridge to enjoy the river and a great view of Perth..

 All new to me, being at ground level, slowly pushing all my body weight using my arms in a circular motion over the bridge... and a new feeling, you see how the front tire is only inches from my head a the same level?  Every bit of dirt, sand and water hits me square in the eyes!

We wind up cycling around 20 km's.  My arms were buggered near the end as you can imagine, but it so happens that the big hill I enjoyed going down at the beginning is the same hill I have to cycle up at the END!

Jim said if I can't do this hill, then I won't be able to motorcycle around the world.  Well I better do it then!

Jim helped me get my gears right and we go.. starts off okay!  But he does stay right beside me, and as I get slower and slower and slower, he had many many words of encouragement to keep me from giving up.  I don't think even if I did rowing in the gym it would use the same muscles.

What is hilarious to me, that only a few hours earlier, I was on the back of a Harley screaming my head off we were going so fast, and today I was struggling at snails pace!!

If we had sound recorded this event, you would have bet money that I was having a baby!! (No, not the screaming... just the serious huffing and puffing)

It was a long haul, but we made it!!

Jim said he had other able-bodied riders get out and walk the bike up to the top, so that made me feel better.. not sure if it was the truth, but I'll take it anyway..

So, what are we up to, interesting and unexpected experience number 4, just for Perth!  Thank you to Jim and the boys for allowing me this experience.  Again, it's a window into a world I have never known before.. and ironic as my own father has recently had both legs amputated and he is adjusting to a new life without use of his legs.

It's a whole new perspective when you get to see things from their angle, if only for even an hour or two.

If I haven't mentioned before, their website is http://www.theridemovie.org/

They need your support in completing their journey starting in August - Perth to Adelaide!

Perth - Biker bar with Aaron

So!!  Now that the bike is sorted, young Aaron invited me out for a ride on the Harley after work..

Cool!  I do miss my old Harley, I've enjoyed the bits of Perth I have seen, and sounds like a plan!

Aaron is a soft spoken guy, with a passion for bikes and cars, and particularly the American kind!  When I showed up he had quite a car to show me!

A Dodge.. I think he said Hemmy?  If I wasn't in dag-gone Tokyo, I'd give him a call to confirm.. I don't know cars very well, but he bought this car from America and it has won some awards.  It's darn pretty, but hard to get a good photo in the tight squeeze of the garage.

He says, you want to hear me start the motor up?  I'm like, sure!  Lord Have Mercy!  It cracked over and my heart nearly popped out of my chest!!  I don't think I've EVER heard a motor that loud (the poor neighbors!!)..  he kept it running for a bit, and I could feel every bit of my internal organs shaking to pieces (10 times worse than that same feeling when I am riding the shaky KTM!)..  it was cool, and I have never seen such a clean motor.  He looks after it really well, that's for sure.

Anyway, off on the Harley.  I don't have pictures of this - darn it!  Will try for the mental picture again... my boots and helmet are on the crate.. So, I borrow one of Aaron's harley helmets, you know the ones that look the Germans wore in the war, but in a matt black color?  No visor - open face..  Riding at 8 pm, in the dark, and we put on sunglasses.  Fine for me, but what about the driver!

Aaron puts on a very special jacket with patches of the club he belongs to..  as for me, the helmet is still too big, so he gives me a beany to wear under it.. So imagine, blue beany, with the harley helmet and bad ass sunglasses on Sherri Jo - HA!  Now you see why I am disappointed on the  missed photo opportunity!

Big ol' black Harley, on the front porch, that's where we get on.. "Aaron, don't you want to ride down the hill in the front yard to the street and I'll get on there?"  Not at all, hop on..

Okay... so where are we going?  Off to "the bar"..

I don't know anything, so off we go.. Aaron is a very experienced rider as he has shown from the Youtube video's of him sand drag racing the old 1967 bike he has in his collection.  (I need to add that to my facebook.. note to self)

Onto the highway, on a very cold winter night, no gloves and in sunglasses.. no worries!  I hold on as I sit on my little patch of leather.. the drive is about 20 km's.  Which I think we covered in about 5 minutes.

I was holding on so tight.. because I was downright scared!!  We weren't just lightly passing the trucks and cars by on the highway, we were screaming past them!!  Remember just a few days ago my comments on the Harley guy that passed that 3 trailer road train, now I was one of them!  OMG>

Into a neighborhood and up to the gate, I ask where we are.. it's the club- house?  It's a house that is also a bar for the club, as Aaron explains where they can all hang out freely.  What an interesting place, I have never seen before!

They entertained me with a huge fire out the back, a coldie from the bar, and some really really interesting stories of life in the club and what it means to be a member.  I got a lot out of that, and a view into a world I have never known before.  What an interesting unexpected experience!!  Thank You!

Okay, now the cold ride back..  young Aaron in command of that Harley, says hold on.. I said "I am holding on", and he says, "NO - HOLD ON!!!!" Me,  Sh _ _!!!!  I have never been that fast on a bike, and if you can imagine the vision of my gear, my hair sailing straight up behind me, and screaming my head off for real...  He finally slowed down and had a laugh and said, "I can't believe, this girl who is going to ride a motorcycle around the world is that scared..!"

Well, I never said I was going to ride FAST around the world!

Perth West Australia - Shipping the bike

On Tuesday, Aaron from KTM got a mate of his to sort out my side stand problem.. I didn't get to meet him, but his name is Barney, and he owns Parnaby's Welding in Perth.  Barney Parnaby!  (I don't know how the name works out that way, but I like it!)  He was wonderfully kind, a Harley Rider, and did the work for free in support of my journey.. Thank you Barney!  What a good man..

Finally on Wednesday we are ready to put the bike in a crate and take it over to Dangerous Goods in prep for shipping on Qantas Airlines to Tokyo.

Panniers off, and handlebars, but all else is in tact.  They had a new crate just in from a shipment from Ducati, and it fit perfectly! (the extra bags you see around my bike is just gear, boots, helmet, etc.)

I'd like to add that Aaron treated me extremely well in the billing department too.  They did a heck of a lot of work for me (I was impressed with a bill a lot less than I expected), gave me a crate, and took it over to shipping for me in their ute.  I didn't have to do a thing!  I'm feeling a bit special and spoiled...
;-)!!!  Very unexpected!!

Load him up and take it away!

On the road again... (Willie Nelson), I just can't wait to get on the road again... in a box!

Off we go to Dangerous Goods.. which was quite simply just a form we filled out and paid $125.. nothing inspected which surprised me..

Then over to Qantas, with all the info they needed, we could finally book a spot on the plane to Narita Airport.  I was booked for June 18, but the bike could not be booked.  The system is to just turn it in and wait for an available space for cargo that large.

She didn't know my flight details, but said, "Well, the next available space we have is June 18 on QF 79"  That's my flight!!  Ha!  Even they said I am extremely lucky to get my bike on the same plane as me.

I'm scared to put this in words as I don't want it to jinx me, but everything is working out perfectly!!!

Perth - West Australia

Well I have to say I had a wonderful time in Perth!  I was there for a whole week.  I'm glad about that for a few reasons..

When I looked at what I needed to accomplish to get the bike ready for overseas, I knew if I didn't make it to Perth on the Friday, then everything would be closed Saturday and Sunday, and I would be stressin'..!

So, arrival on Thursday night you have seen.. on Friday morning first thing I was at Causeway KTM at Victoria Park.  Walked in there complaining about my side stand as you know, but then while I was at it, also needed to have a good service done.

First one I met was young Aaron, and you could tell he was thinking.. "holy hell, crazy lady with too much sh_ _ on her bike!"

He had a quick look, didn't pay attention to anything I said about the stand, he went straight into, "You need a stronger spring".  Obviously my bike is carrying more than the average 690 Enduro owner would, so even though I knew this before, I agreed to the work.

I hung around for the part to be delivered at noon. . They got into it and discovered it was a tougher job than anticipated..

3 pm, Service done, side stand and spring NOT done.  What's a motorcycle rider to do?

Rent a car!  Well, if it had to stay the weekend at KTM in pieces, and I was due to deliver bike to Qantas on Tuesday, then even if they finished on Monday, I would have only had it for hours before I delivered it back for the crate ordeal.

Since last November, I have been in full on preparations for this trip.  Getting the bike, gear, planning, working, house remodeling, tenant preps etc etc.  Now, I don't have a house, a bike, everything needing to be planned is planned.. Heck - now what do I do???

Young Robert, my house host sorted it ALL out for me.  That was quite a change for me, didn't have to THINK about anything!  I traveled along while did grocery shopping, rock climbing, lunch, and finally a movie... I saw a movie!!  It's been many months since I stepped foot in a theater!  (We saw the A-Team, I really like it)

But I think the wind down caught up with me, and I was bottoming out... not hardly a speck of energy in me, and I couldn't work out what the problem was.. I was worried until Rob put into perspective all of the above mentioned planning, plus an exhausting 10 days riding just literally caught up with me!

On Sunday I came good again, thank goodness.. Again the House Host/Planner had every detail to the day sorted, and off we went for him to show me around Perth.

Started at Fremantle in the morning, markets, coffee, etc..

Then on to Cottlesloe Beach, where Rob went to take a photo, until this man pulled up on his bike.. Rob was about to tell him he was in the way, but I thought the picture would be far more entertaining with this guy in it!

That big building in the background houses the restaurant called "Indiana".  Where I am from!  I thought that was cool, and what a great name Indiana is!
\

Lastly over to King's Park.  A great view of the city of Perth from the park.. grass was so green and perfect as a gold coarse.  So many people just having a soak up of sun, and enjoying their families on such a beautiful day!  So much so, just the look of them all relaxing has an effect on SOMEBODY...!!

I won't hold it against him.. I do know what hard work it is showing somebody around.. gave me an opportunity to have a wander, and watch...  like this young boy, so intently seems to be paying his respects to those fallen for our country..

Day 10 - Margaret River to Perth!! - 280 km

I made it to Perth!   A long time goal achieved, and arriving successfully was a good feeling!

Margaret River was very cold in the morning, clocking in at 1 degree when I left..  Like I said earlier, it didn't do much for me, and I was VERY READY to just get myself to Perth.  It was an amazing and exhausting 10 days.. set up as my test run before leaving the country, and learn anything I needed to add, or get rid of, as well as see how I went with the bike and camping..

I do have a little pile of things I want to send back, wish I could ditch more... I would like to travel light on one hand, but on the other, all that I have to live on for the next year or more, including my home and my bed.. is strapped to the bike!

Heading north from Margaret was a pretty drive and then stopped at Bunbury.. No good reason, just curious what it was like.. very much reminded me of Florida.  Lots of shops, palm trees, and overcrowded!!

Quickly moved on, but wasn't liking the highway much, so I took a more inland road the rest of the way..

Nice, easy going road, nobody in a hurry and if they were, plenty of passing lanes.

I got close to Perth and called my friend Robert, who I have never met before, but who offered me a place to throw my "bumroll", while in Perth as well as borrowing his mailing address for my mail to be forwarded to (Including my Australian Passport with Russian Visa inside - yay!!!)

It was wonderful after that journey to be met with a place to go and a smile...

A couple years ago, Robert (a recent import to Perth from Manchester UK), rode his push bike across America.. he wanted to "pay it forward" for the generosity people showed him on his journey, which is such a nice thing to do.  I am looking forward to paying it forward to travelers once I get home to Adelaide as well!

In the meantime, I am very lucky and grateful to have a place to stay here, while I get my bike sorted out and a wonderful tour guide and host to boot!  Plus he makes a mean English sandwich!! (of which I was told if I didn't like it, I was out the door... ;-) !!!  I like it, I like it!!!

Day 7 - Esperance to Bremer Bay = 398 km

One thing I love about camping, is I am constantly meeting really nice people!  As soon as a turn the engine off, somebody comes over to talk to me, and usually with good advice of where they have been and what I should see..

Here I met a wonderful couple from Germany, Heinrich and Dorothea..  They are traveling around Australia for 6 months.  When I was setting up my tent the night before, Heinrich immiediately offered his hammer for me to get my stakes in the ground.. (probably shouldn't admit this, but I have been using my riding boots.. hey!  they have reinforced thick heels, and plenty strong enough!~ But it looks weird I am sure)

We talked a little about Germany, as that is were my family comes from many generations before.  They so kindly offered me a place to stay once I reach Germany a few months from now.  How nice!!  Here we are putting contact details into my iphone.  Heinrich is the photographer and sent me over these photos.. thank you!!

Anyway, it's Windy again!  Have to admit I considered not riding in the wind today.  Was also really wanting to stop somewhere to enjoy for more than a night.. But, I looked at my map and my goal to get the bike to Perth in time to have work done before I board a plane for overseas, and thought I best keep going..

This turned out to be my first bad day.. so I'd say out of all those km's completed, to not have a bad day 'til now is pretty good.

The wind gusts were strong and really pushed me around.. mainly because around Esperance is a lot of  farm land, and most of the trees are gone.  Also because of the shape of the bike and how it's loaded it really responds to the wind gusts.  They weren't even that bad, I'd say around 15 - 20 knots?

I pushed through... or I should say it pushed me..  It was like I'd be happy to ride along and somebody would come up beside me using both arms and would give me a really angry shove to push me down.. over and over and over all day.

My goal was to get to Albany, but at a fuel stop in Jerramungup, I decided I had enough... where is the closest campervan park!!??  Didn't like the one there, and I had heard of Bremer Bay.. it was 120 kms's away and 60 km's off the beaten track, which is a long way when you are riding slow and careful through the wind.. But I went for it.

Gee whiz, those last 60 k's were the worst... just wanted to get off the bike!  The rain was intense, the wind would let off...  Ugh!!!!  Nearly had a cry actually... but I made it..

And a nice surprise to a wonderful campground there, one of the prettiest I have ever stayed..

Up to date and super clean amenities..  Even though I set up the tent in the pouring rain, once I got inside, I was one happy little camper... a great stop!  It's Bremer Bay Beaches Resort campground if anyone heading that way... well worth it trip!

Next challenge, nothing around to find for dinner.  I went back to the camp manager and he was wonderful.. he donated a tin of tomato soup, my favorite!!  and I warmed it up in the camp kitchen... little happy camper was now full and content.. what a nice sleep I had in the rain...

Day 6 - Balledonia to Esperance = 391 km

More rain.. and newly added wind!  Each day is adding a little more and more challenge.

Interesting how on the bike I really notice all the road surface changes.  Each time they do a patch of road, the mix is different and you get bitumen that is fine and smooth and then onto a patch with big fat rocks (my bike doesn't like these ones so well)

Of coarse a natural arch in the road for rain run off.  I think because of the skinny tires, and the weight on my bike, it is often quite a struggle not to let the road "drag" me off into the gutter.  Depending on what section of road I am on, this can be a big struggle for quite a distance.

At my next desperate toilet break, thought I might check tire pressure... seems they are going well, given the work out I am giving those poor tires!

Wish I could say the same for that dag gone side stand!

Not good when I can not put the stand down and I really NEED to get that stand down.. like now!

Started off trying to park by the toilet, the surface looks totally fine in this photo, but the slightest angle won't let me park the bike!  I eventually work it out at most stops.. or like yesterday I went to 3 different public toilets that were all located on a slight hill, and I could not park the bike at any of them - bugger!

Anyway, when I was at this stop pictured here, I watched a big 3 trailer road train passing by, and next to him was a man on a Harley screaming past the road train!~  He was so loud and fast my jaw dropped at the sight of it!  I thought, deary me, if anyone ends up as road kill, it would be him!

Very pretty around here, until I get to Norseman.. which is officially the end of the Nullabor crossing, and here we make a decision to turn south to explore the south coast of West Australia, or head straight to Perth.  I chose south of coarse!

I pulled in for fuel at Norseman, and after trying to get my side stand down at 2 different pumps, the Harley man that passed earlier was sitting there watching me struggle and having a chuckle I think.

He was VERY TALL, and beard down to his belly, with a big dark "Dryazabone" long coat on, black sunglasses on and his Harley was all black as well.

"What's the problem love?"  I told him, he came over to hold the bike from tipping over so I could get the stand down.  Wowee!  The smell of alcohol was intense!  Please don't light a cigarettte!

He and the boys had gone for a camp at Fraser's Range the night before, got pissed and were heading home.. but he got bored waiting on the others, which is why he went past the Roadtrain like a bulllet, and was waiting on the curb.

Then the whole gang pulled in.  A real Outlaw gang.. They surrounded me and the bike.. "What's that your riding love?"  A KTM..  "Oh yeah"  They all look at each other and laugh..

I was ready to get on to Esperance.  I headed south and the change in direction was throwing me a bit with a southwesterly.  And the landscape was really boring and dull... I wasn't enjoying my first taste of West Australia much..

Was happy to pull into Esperance, went straight to the Seafront caravan park I punched in to my gps.  Checked in and set up camp...

Just in time to enjoy a sunset on the ocean...

Day 4 - Nundroo to Eucla 342 km

A hyped up day across the Nullabor... I have heard so much about this Nullabor place.. It's flat, dry, no trees for days on end.. people die out there..  Make sure you take plenty of spare fuel and water.

Out of that amazing Roadhouse dirt patch I camped on at Nundroo and nervously headed into the Nullabor zone..  I noticed while riding through Yalata Aboriginal land that it didn't take long for those trees to disappear, but had not yet gone in to the "Nullabor".   Along came the Nullabor Hotel/Motel, a last chance to top up the fuel, and I better have my lunch early, because God only knows when I might have a meal again.. there's NOTHING out there!!

Well I have to say, once I left the Roadhouse, it just got better.  I could look at it as a scary lonely long road, or I can look at how amazing and uniquely beautiful it was.. and off I went!  I was really really lucky I think.. being June and winter, I would have expected wind and rain.. But what I got was a beautiful sunny day without wind - absolutely perfect for me to ride across this day!!!

I was worried about doing this ever since I knew I was going to Perth on my bike.. and it was so wonderful I can't wait to do it again...

The one little gripe I have is still my bike and the side stand.  So many times I wanted to stop and take photos, but the soft grade on the road is steep enough not to take the bike off the pavement, and there is no stopping on the pavement with a possibility of a road train passing me up and knocking me over.

(The boys here in Perth are hopefully going to sort that stand out for me tomorrow... but not being able to stop when I wanted kept me from many photo opportunities along the way)

Finally found this side of road park, and after many attempts to get the side stand down, I found the right angle in a patch of dirt and succeeded...  sheweee!  I needed that break for more reasons than one!  ;-)

Of which I also took the opportunity to see if the whales are here yet..

Nope, didn't see any... kind of glad I didn't.  After a couple seasons of swimming with the whales in Tonga, it would be hard just to watch them swim past without the urge to jump in the water and swim with them! (not legal in Australia.. which is a good thing)

Anyway!!  I treated myself to the hotel once I got to Eucla.  No tent tonight!  I had a bed, a shower and MY OWN bathroom!

Ordered a good meal, snapper chips and fresh salad they grow there at the hotel.  Still no phone reception, but I didn't care, I was proud of my first few days and it was time for a reward...

Day 3 - Wudinna to Nundroo 358 km

Was a gorgeous day riding.. was warned not to stay at Nundroo, but Penong was too early to stop.  I knew I had good weather and riding conditions, and wanted to take advantage of that.

Pulled into Nundroo and totally understood the warning.. But!  Beggars can't be choosers when your goals are merely to get from one Roadhouse to the next!!

Because it looked a bit unsafe, I asked the lady for the price of a room..$90 !!!  No way!! They are disgusting!  You know,  I bet half those rooms were finally filled up on that Thursday night.  So, if they are making $90 a room, and I see the fancy cars the owners of the hotel drive, you'd think they'd invest at least a little in their business??... So I paid my $8 for a camp site.. She then came out to tell me she forgot to offer the backpackers room which might be safer, for an additional $2.  I went and had a look, but it was musty smelly nasty.  I didn't even want my sleeping bag to touch those beds!  So I stuck with my little tent, and very glad I did..I was the only camper for a while, and was quite concerned... until finally a lone camper came in to join me.  Another really nice couple from Perth.  I got a huge kick out of watching the 2 of them perfectly position their satellite tv dish!!

Listened to Road Train's pass by all night long.  It would seem to be so quiet out there. Yet off in the distance you hear the squeeling of what sounds to me like jett engines... Even as far off the road as I am camped, the earth below me vibrates as they violently pass by.





I quite often notice huge blood splatters on the road and no dead animals in site.  Now I know why, those guys wouldn't break for a roo, and when they plow through the poor thing, the kangaroo's body must just explode and desintegrate!

Needless to say, didn't sleep much...