Cusco, Moray and Chinchero!

I really needed to find a place to stay in Cusco where I could have my motorcycle with me.  Too many sleepless nights in the other place worrying about whether my bike survived another night 2 blocks away.  So after scouring the entire town, I found a place where the owner (who hit and damaged my bike pannier.. and then fixed it no worries) was so kind to give me a super great deal for long term stay.  And on top of that I gained a much more peaceful place with a view!

Four days before I moved here, I got the dreaded Inca Bug.  You can see by the lack of hygiene practices here with food how easy that would be.  I did my best to avoid it.. but it got me bad. I have never been so sick in my life. I could not eat a thing. Even so I was up all day and all night throwing up.  And during this time I needed to move to the new place.  I made the most awful mistake.

On these small streets you can not stop any vehicle for more than a second before every single car behind you is blaring their horns.  Come on! Give me a chance to shut the door!  When the taxi dropped me off with all my gear, I paid him with all the horns blaring behind me, and barely able to move from being so horribly sick, I crawled out of the taxi and left my helmet in the seat next to me (where I purposely placed it to protect the visor).

It was hours before I realized I did this.  Staying in the same place was a friend, Scott Hughes and his son Owen.  Scott has been traveling South America on his Kawasaki KLR and introduced himself to me in Chile a couple months ago.

Today is my birthday and they invited me to a mad game of Rummy.  As much as I'd like to just lay in my bed, I haven't had anybody to talk to in English for days.

Anyway, while playing cards, a thought just popped up in my head.. "Where is my helmet?"  I have many other things, back pack, camera, gloves, riding boots, etc etc.  Why the heck I got this thought without even thinking about my gear I have no idea.

I ran up to my room and sure enough, it's not here!  I ran to the staff.. did I leave my helmet here at 'Recepcion'?  "No, Senorita Sherri. No hay cazco aqui"  Shi....  Only then did I realize what I've done.  Lord have Mercy, how could I be so dumb.

The days following I looked at every single moto on the streets of Cusco to see if they were wearing a black helmet that says "Sherri Jo" on the back.  Nada. The staff took me to the thieves market on Saturday morning where you can likely recover your stolen phone, camera or backpack.. Nada.  This is something I can't play around with.  If I don't have a helmet, I can't leave.  A supersize policeman put me on the back of his very small 100cc motorcycle with a shonky oversized helmet and took me to "motorcycle street".. where you can find any moto related shops.  They had one sort-of decent helmet, but all were made very cheaply in China.  When I researched this brand, it was not recommended for safety.  My only choice came down to ordering a new one from the United States with higher safety standards.. this was important to me.  What a bummer, and a whole lot of money I didn't want to spend. Happy Birthday Sherri Jo....

Another friend came to town, Petar Rikic from Croatia.  I met him in Quito Ecuador while traveling with Kevin. From all the time alone in Cusco, it's so good to have friends around now.  We had so much fun and went NIGHTLY to our favorite local hangout for beers. And young Petar won't let you off until you play pool with him at Norton Rats on the plaza.

Jeff, the owner, rode here from USA on his Norton many years ago and decided to stay. He has kept a book here for Moto-Adventurers to sign over 12 years. Not only was it an honor to sign it myself, (I made it to the very last page in a book with some of the greatest well known riders of the world), but it's such a great record of history from many whom I've met personally.  I even found Kevin's signature from when he was here in March while I was in Chile. That brought a tear.. It's a fascinating book to look through while having a beer (or two).

Petar and I set out for the markets.. I have been many times, but this is his first to this particular market (San Pedro) in Cusco.  Part of what gives me the thrill of traveling the world is seeing how other people live and what they eat. This market has a great "gasp" factor.  If you don't like photos of dead things, you might pass on the following photos.

 Little tiny frogs for sale.

Cheese!

 Cow noses?  I asked twice.. it's for making soup!

Those are the worst I will show you.  There are other animal pieces and parts that I'd rather not include...

The good luck clay bulls.. Usually you see them placed on the roof of houses to ward off bad spirits. Not selling too well today??

Some fairly disturbing mannequins to help sell childrens clothes.

As I walk around town, I still can't help but to scan every person on a motorcycle for my helmet. I'm completely prepared for when I encounter them.  Traffic is slow enough I can stop them with a karate chop!  Whack!  Then I'm pulling that helmet off while they're on the ground.  Let them call the police over. it's mine and I can prove it! (I'd never actually do this, I'd be too scared, but these are the thoughts that went through my mind.. ;-)

The streets around the plaza are closed again today, this time for protests.. And one that I agree with!  They are marching with their dogs for the protection of animals.. Hallelujah!!

Petar is super keen to get out on the bikes and explore the dirt roads around here.  He is so young (22) and super persuasive!  "Come, on.. let's ride! Let's ride! Come on....please please please???"  I was reluctant because I am missing an important component.. the helmet! But, I have to admit, I could really use some time away on the bike.  So! With the thinking cap on I went the next morning to ask the moto shops that rent bikes if I can borrow a helmet.  That was easy!  Got the helmet, told Petar, and he was over on his bike in a flash.  "Are you ready yet? Are you ready yet?!"  Yes, Petar.. I've been waiting on you!!  Ha!

Just a day trip today.. my KTM looks so weird without the panniers on!

Petar and I decided to buy the 3 Ruins pass.. which includes entry into Ollantaytambo, Moray, and Chinchero.  On the ride, it didn't take long for us to just pull over and enjoy the view of the mountains ahead.

An even nicer view into the Sacred Valley of the Incas.

Oops, we're not there yet.  We are spending more time enjoying views and taking photos outside before even getting to the ruins!

Aha.. here is Moray.. finally!

Moray is thought to be the site of agricultural experiments.  From Wikipedia: The purpose of these depressions is uncertain, but their depth and orientation with respect to wind and sun creates a temperature difference of as much as 15 °C (27 °F) between the top and bottom. This large temperature difference was possibly used by the Inca to study the effects of different climatic conditions on crops. In other words, Moray was perhaps an Inca agricultural experiment station. As with many other Inca sites, it also has a sophisticated irrigation system.

Moray was one place I was really wanting to see, so check that one off the list.

One of my favorite photos of Petar as we are riding the dirt tracks away from Moray.  The markets have the gasp factor, but so do the roads around here.

On this dirt road when the sun poked out behind the clouds, a quick photo of a young girl and her lambs.

Through the village and back out on to the main road toward Cusco where we'll make one last stop to Chinchero.

We had to park the bikes several streets away from the Chinchero ruins.  I feel bad that I cut Petar's head off, but I remember this and wanted to include this old lady passing by.  As she marched by quickly, her stare just screamed.. "Damn foreigners.."  Ha!  In our riding gear, we do look like space aliens in comparison to their clothes.

In town there is a definite contrast to the Inca construction and what the Spanish built right on top.

Lots of art and souvenirs in this town as well.  I loved these dolls, nearly bought a couple, but as usual, refrained.... no space on the bike!

The Chinchero Inca ruins below, Catholic Spanish Church built on top.

It seems like this door might be a bit 'drafty'...

As usual, crawling around on the ruins lets my imagination run wild.  What is this place that I'm sitting on.. Did they do sacrifices here? It's quite disturbing that is where my mind goes.. I've seen too many movies.. ;-/

I was wondering what those women are doing in the field on the grounds of the ruins.

They are working on potatoes!  From what I can tell, they are drying them. The barefoot lady is turning them with her feet. This is their current life.. and I imagine not much different than when their ancestors harvested here.

Suns starting to get low.. we better start making our way back to the bikes.

Back in the village and I love seeing the locals in their traditional dress.  These clothes are really beautiful.  Each piece is hand died, hand woven and takes weeks to make just one piece.

I caught these two girls doing their homework and texting.  The quickly hid the mobile phone... gotcha!  I won't tell your parents, don't worry...

This lady is spinning that nice red wool.  I asked her how they get the deep red color and she told me from beetles.  Beetles!?!  I don't know how that works, and I didn't see any personally.. so maybe?

The kids are playing marbles near the bikes.  Marbles are great, and I think I've seen kids play with them in nearly every country except in the western world (where each child seems to have electronic toys instead from my observation).

While I was preparing to get on the bike with helmet and gloves, these gorgeous girls came up quietly and asked if I would be interested in their bracelets.  I just happened to be in the mood for a new bracelet.. so I bought two!  That is something that I can buy that won't take up any space on the bike..

And there ya go!  A day out around Peru with Petar!

Back home again to Cusco...

Back to El Balcon, and Talo the owner peeks his head out the door to see who's making noises in his parking space.  Sola yo, Talo, La Gringa!! ;-)

Once I tucked my bike away, there was Young Petar still waiting at the door.  Let's go on another ride, Please Please Please!!  Lord have Mercy, boy!  Look at that face!

I did have a lot of fun today... I've been in town too long and it felt really good to be riding and exploring again.  So I said... Yes!  Where's next!?!  I know where he wants to go.. I'll tell ya in the next post..

Pisac (Pisaq) Peru

On the road from Ollantaytambo to Pisaq, and it's another beautiful day in Peru!

One thing I've noticed about Peruvians, is that they are always walking down the road carrying something on their back.  This one was so bad, I hardly recognized what it was until I saw the small human legs sticking out beneath this stash.  Not only do they carry crops, but their children, entire meals with all the dishes for several people, the laundry they take to a stream for washing.. everything on their back.

I was only going to see the ruins today before I head into Cusco when I rode my motorcycle up to the entrance.  As usual the children are very interested in the bike, and they were so thrilled when I asked them if they'd like to sit on it!

I walked up to the entrance where there were several tourist buses and it quite honestly looked a bit crowded. I was in my motorcycle gear, and saw there would be a lot of climbing and walking.  Do I want to do this now?  Or since I am in no hurry, maybe find a place in town to stay where I can park my bike, secure the bags, change clothes and come back.  That's what I chose.

When I returned to the ruins later that afternoon, hardly any people, the buses are gone.. awesome! I met a man who was willing to guide me around.  His name is Benedicto.  I have been so spoiled with free tours lately, I agreed to Benedicto and his price to show me around.  He doesn't speak much English either, and I quite prefer to talk in Spanish anyway.  Every little bit helps and I learn more every day.

Pisaq, Peru

As we walk toward the ruins, he starts off by showing me his favorite wild plant, Muna.  Benedicto was born in the village here, and he carries a bit of the indigenous belief of prayer to Pachamama (Mother Earth) as well as a Catholic tradition. Interestingly, he carried a little glass bottle of Muna oil with him as he believes it helps in meditation.

Just out of curiosity, I was asking questions about Pachamama and the oil and he showed me how he might pray to her using the oil. It is important to be touching the earth during prayer.

Now, on to the ruins themselves.  You know I LOVED Machu Pichhu and I LOVED Ollantaytambo, but I must add that Pisaq should not be missed either.  It is different and worth checking out.

Pisaq is super impressive with large agricultural terraces everywhere, but it also has some military points, temples, and a cemetary built into the rock.

I must have got Benedicto off on a roll, as soon as we got to the water, he started praying to Pachamana with gratitude for the water.

On the other hill across from the beautiful water was a cemetery.  The tombs are those holes in the rock and is believed to only have had religious/spiritual dignitaries buried here.  Again, it's hard to know because when the Spanish came in, they stole or destroyed EVERYTHING!

Benedicto was full of amazing information and I'm only too happy I can understand and talk to him in Spanish.  I remember thinking as he is talking that his native language is Quechua, but we both communicate in Spanish.  The language of the people who destroyed the area. It's sort of sad and clear how the world evolves from these things.  With a diagram he draws, he is telling me how important this region was to the Inca Empire before there were borders. At one end of the oval is Colombia and the bottom part of the oval goes as far south as about the middle of Chile.  And right in the middle is Cusco, Ollantaytambo and Pisaq.

There are several temples here, but "The Temple of the Sun" is the most notorious.  Benedicto explained that the water bath in the photo below was used by the pilgrims or visitors to the temple to clean themselves after their long journey before venturing in.

The ruins below take the shape of the condor.  The condor is a very large bird and an important part of Inca culture. If you can see the buildings at the top of the terraces in this section form the outline of a Condor spreading its wings to take off. The Condor is regarded by the Andean people as the guardian spirit of the dead.

Just another view of the condor about to fly to the valley.

I've really enjoyed Benedicto today (and Edwin and Victor in the previous days).  He is also one of those lovely Peruvian men that was easy to trust, and knowing how much I loved the smell of the Muna, he asked if I'd like to see how they make the Muna oil at home.  He rides a motorcycle too, so it was fun to follow his little red 150cc Honda on the dirt roads of his village on my KTM. This is where he lives and his little garden out the front.

For those of you who eat Quinoa, it's a staple part of their diet here and he grows the red quinoa around the house.

I love meeting people and experiencing their culture first hand.  I could be on a tour bus, listen to the guide and get back on the bus and go back to a hotel full of English speaking tourists.  Or here, I have his full attention, I get all my questions asked, and even further, I got to see his modest home and garden.. Love it!

I spent the night in Pisaq and met a really nice American lady who was there indefinitely.  She was hoping to set up a health retreat. While Cusco and Ollantaytambo are full of tourists in adventure gear, Pisaq seems to be "Spiritual Central" with flowing pink rainbow skirts and headbands.  Lots of organic food, crystals, shamans, yoga houses, etc etc.  I don't mind exploring my spiritual side.  And since the retreat is not ready yet, I got a good price to stay at her place for a bit. (I loved the courtyard cushions for computer work, however trying to upload one set of photos for a single blog post took 12 hours alone, because Pisaq is in a valley with poor reception.  So unfortunately to utilize my time to catch up on the blog, I will have to move back to Cusco.)

For now, I found my favorite place for cheese and onion empanadas!!  So good from the wood fire..and cheap!!

In the very same space they sell Cuy (guinea pig).  This is a very common meal choice around here, but it's not for me. I spent about an hour playing with the little guys and wished I could devise a plan for them all to escape.

 The Cuy House (in the restaurant)

This is a photo I borrowed from my time in Cusco of cooked little Cuys.. I'm still not eating one.. no way! ;-/

Back out on the street for some proper food, Pisaq is very well known for it's Sunday market.  Markets are busy on Tuesday and Thursday for souvenirs as well, but the Sunday market is the biggest and best for good fresh food.

Mmmm... potatoes.  We're cookin' tonight! I got broccoli, cauliflower, choclo (local corn), herbs, and with the potatoes, we made one heck of a good green organic salad.. the kind you dream of because it's hard to accomplish while on the road.

I've lost a lot of weight lately and really did need a new belt.  I bought a hand woven one (the red and white one at the far right side) off this lady.

After our vegetable buying extravaganza, I wanted to go for a Sunday wander.  My friends tell me about a path I can walk up to the ruins that follow a 500 year old viaduct.  Which is what I do.

While I was walking along the viaduct, I met this young guy, Michaelangelo.  We walked together and chatted, one on each side of the water.  It is important to pay attention as a lot of the viaduct is along a long drop to the valley below. Somehow we got on to the subject of Pachamama, spirituality etc. ('Tis the town to be spiritual! ;-)

Michaelangelo didn't like that I was traveling alone and he thinks I should have a boyfriend.  I know what you're thinking, but he wasn't like that. Very young guy, oooooold lady. Anyway, he asked me if we could do a prayer and offering to Pachamama for me to find a new boyfriend.  I disrespectfully laughed and then got quiet real quick.  He was serious.  I'm not really sure where this is coming from, because it's not like I had a long conversation with him about my status! I was asking more of the questions about Pachamama and the relationship the people have in this mostly Catholic country. He simply had asked if I was traveling alone, I said yes, he asked where is my boyfriend, I said "No tengo Novio.." He was so genuine, seems very mature for his age, kind and soft spoken, and quick to suggest this, so I said OK.  (I'm waiting to find out how much money he wants, I asked him, he wants nothing..) He is just walking the path up to the ruins where he found me, which is not the tourist route.  He goes there daily to sell hand-made bracelets to tourists and he explained his culture and his connection to Pachamana. Since I've got nothing else to do today, I said yes.

In his pouch he carries something very special.  Meteorite stones. (I couldn't tell you if they are or not, but we'll go with it).  He had me lay on a high rock (which sort of felt like an offering in itself!) with my arms extended each side. I have to admit at this point I got slightly worried. But at the risk of sounding cruel, Michaelangelo has a deformity and walks with a limp.  I asked him about it and it's a spinal problem he was born with.  So technically, I can outrun the little guy if he gave me reason to.

He placed the meteorite stones, one in each hand, one on my belly, one at my feet and the last above my head.  He did his prayers to Pachamama in Quechua (local language), and asked to use the water I was carrying.  I gave it to him and we made our offering to Pachamama by pouring the water on the dirt at each location.  After his prayer he played the flute.

When he was finished, he told me to stay here and meditate for a while, however long felt right to me.  I said ok, but what can I pay you?  I figured he was doing this for money which was okay with me because it is definitely a unique experience of his culture. He said nothing again, had our good-bye hugs and he started walking away playing the flute.  I called him back and asked if I could see the bracelets he makes.  He agreed, opened up another pouch and showed me.  I bought a few and sent them home to my nieces.  I know this could be a gimmick, and I'm normally the type to shy away from people. But I really felt this guy was genuine. I could at least take a load off how many bracelets he needs to sell today.  Another goodbye hug and he continues walking up to the Pisaq ruins.

I stayed behind as he suggested and listened to his music as he walked...the sound of his flute got weaker and farther away.  When I couldn't hear him anymore I looked up at the top.  He was waiting there until I saw him (he was so far it was hard to spot him!)  He gave a gigantic wave, and I waved back.  What the heck was that.  Loved that guy, so sweet, and what a special unexpected way to spend a Sunday afternoon...