Showing posts with label Medellín. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Medellín. Show all posts

Moving South to Las Brisas Colombia

Time to leave Medellin.. However! Kevin is still playing with that new camera.  Dude!  "Wait.. if I take a photo on this setting it looks like this.."   Great...ready yet?  "Nope.... if I take a photo on this other setting it looks like this.."  You can see how thrilled I am as I'm trying to go out the door.. ;-)  C'mon, Kev....  Get this man some breakfast and coffee so we can get on the road!


Woo hoo, we're on the road again!



Besides the big trucks that bellow heaps of black or blue exhaust, it's an absolutely gorgeous ride through the little mountain towns of Colombia.


One thing I love about this country is when there are toll boothes, there is a little lane to the right for motorcycles to pass without paying.  In some of the other countries, it's such a pain to stop the bike, take my gloves off, unzip jackets or pockets to get the small change needed.  By the time I'm putting it all back together again, the people behind me are beeping the horns.  So I appreciate a country that allows free moto access!



It's one of those super nice flowy riding days.  Roads are great, not much traffic, and gorgeous!

Kevin spots a view stop.  I have to admit looks pretty good.


Until we started down these rickety rotten stairs!  Honestly, if this stair case was in sue-happy countries like America, they would have this completely closed off if not torn down.

The entire structure would sway with every step.  Stepping over gigantic holes of the pieces that have truly rotted and fallen away.  Which piece of wood will I break through and end up rolling down the cliff into the muddy river below!?  I'm a wussy, Kevin is the brave one.  He's down the bottom watching me nerviously make my way with lots of photos while laughing.


 Dag gone it, he wore the same t-shirt as me today... ;-)



It was absolutely beautiful here and since the wood stairs didn't break down, it was totally worth the trip.

Later in the afternoon we pull into Manizales.  My number one goal is to find a bank, totally out of money. 



Very good looking but busy town!


After we both scored with the magic money that comes out of a machine, neither of us was quite ready to give it up for the day yet.  We've been in Medellin for days and had enough of city life.  Small village or camping sounds good to me for tonight!  That is the beauty of living on the road..




Kevin has got the Lonely Planet book and there are a couple of parks around here with thermal springs.  The book even shows a couple hostels within or around the park, so that's where we head. Not long after this nicely paved road it turned into dirt.  I pulled Kevin over to make sure he wants to do the dirt.  His street tires have no tread to begin with, but he's traveling on a rear tire that is extra bald and needing to be changed at this point.  He's still keen and says let's do it.


We took a photo of this sign after traveling on the rough road for a while.  It is so out of place and surprises us both to see it here. There is food in 500 meters?  If there was, it's not there now! ;-)


Up, up and up we continue to go.  A lot of the road is getting really rough.  Like little rivers running through it, deep crevases from the water with slippery rock and mud.

A chance to pull over and one of my favorite photos I ever took of Kevin.  So beautiful here and so glad to have somebody to share the views with...


As usual, the dirt roads take you to the prettiest places, never fails.

One of the hostels and hot springs coming up from Kevin's LP, Termales de Ruiz.


This hostel was VERY closed.  Nobody has been here in ages, big chains and bolts across the door. It looks and feels really creepy.  This old man comes out from the back with a dog.  He seems nice enough and we tell him we are looking for a place to camp instead (sort of wish we didn't tell him that..)  He takes us out the back to the thermal pools and says we can camp here.

The pools are good looking even though unmaintained.  Lots of thermal hot steam. We've got our tents so we can set up on the wet ground, and even go for a midnight dip.. Cool! Kevin is scaring me with stories of what the creepy old man is going to do to us tonight. ;-/

The more we walked around to check it out, the more questions we had.  Why is this guy here?  Is he a guard or simply a squatter?  He had a little bed set up in the pool mechanics room.  He was strange, but we still thought we'd stay here.  Kevin pulled the machete out of his pannier and said we'd be fine. ;-)

All was well until he said we needed to pay.  How much?  It worked out to be the same as any ol' hostel that had a warm bed and running water!  Kevin was telling him that we are not going to pay that much to camp but the man wouldn't back down.  It made no sense to charge even a little, let alone a lot. So we left, even though it was nearly dark now.



There is still one more hostel listed in his book called Las Brisas.  We confirmed we are on the right track and continued up the hill.



Kevin said he's feeling a bit dizzy.. We had a look at the elevation (4032m = 13228ft). He said the dizziness wasn't bad, however it was noticeable.  I didn't feel it at all, but we better get off the bike sooner than later.


I had no idea we'd come up this far!

After some tricky slippery riding in the dark we come across this little shack. According to Kevin's calculations from the little paper map in his LP, this should be Hosteria Las Brisas. It looks more to me like a temporary wooden shed and at the time there were no lights on outside or inside.  So I am trying to make out the words on the wall in the dark. I am laughing so hard and telling Kevin that the sign says this is it!  Kevin is taking a photo through the fog.  My head is turned because there is a lady inside that heard me and she is yelling at me through the wall after she turned the front light on.


I'm like, Oh Sh..!  There's somebody in there!! She is speaking so fast, but I explain to her in my much more simple Spanish that we are looking for a room tonight???  Ha! I said it sort of cocky and expected her to shooo us away.

She then turned on all the lights, opened the door, and what a surprise!  This is a working hostel, the owner was just the only one here and must have gone to bed for the night.  There is nothing up here, no towns, no reason for traffic or to expect anyone this late. She said she was worried at first, and then surprised to see two motorcycles!

The hostel has one tiny room here with 2 bunk beds.  Anything looked good to us.  Such a nice lady, she made us a wonderful dinner too!  We had soup, hot tea, and big plate full of rice veggies and chicken...  SCORE!!!

I have often found in the world when I am struggling to stop for the night trying to figure out where to sleep; just around the time I am about to give up, not only a good place, but a PERFECT place shows up.



We ended up at about 4200 meters (13,770ft) and it was freakin' cold!!  We drank the tea and had our soup as quick as possible since it wouldn't stay warm that long in this air.  Dinner was fantastic and she even had a couple beers in her cabinet!  I had already settled in my brain we would have a chilly night camping on wet earth with a tin of tuna for dinner. How lucky are we!?

This night we squished together into the one bottom bunk wearing every bit of warm clothes, wool socks and beenie hats.  I counted at one stage after stealing from all the other beds, that we accumulated 12 blankets! (including Spiderman and Cinderella ;-)

For months we've been in hot humid weather and didn't expect (or research properly) that it would be like winter tonight! No problem getting warm enough, however we both had massive headaches. Kevin was still feeling a bit dizzy and we could not sleep for anything; which I have since learned is normal when you are not yet acclimatized.

Lucky for me, Kevin has a few movies in his computer, and we literally watched movies and laughed all night long.  Turned out to be quite fun actually!  See ya tomorrow.. ;-)

Medellin, Colombia Part 2

My motorcycle is still in the shop getting a mechanical make-over.  So today we decide to check out the local drug scene... literally!

More appropriately, we took the Pablo Escobar tour...a most famous or infamous Colombian Drug Lord.  If you haven't heard of him, here's a little tiny background.


Pablo Escobar
Born December 1, 1949
Rionegro, Antioquia, Colombia
Died December 2, 1993 (aged 44)
Medellín, Colombia
Alias(es) El Patrón, Don Pablo,
El Señor, El Robin Hood Criollo
Conviction(s) drug trafficking and smuggling, assassinations, bombing, bribery, racketeering, money laundering, murder, political corruption
Status Deceased
Occupation Head of the Medellín Cartel


Since we are without motorcycles today.. off in the little tour bus we go.  It's hard to go through Colombia without hearing, learning or SEEING the role this country plays in 80% of the cocaine market.

Like the bad kids we are, Kevin and I took the back the of bus.. of course!


Pablo was such a character and influence over so many lives.  Here is a better summary of what he is about from Wikipedia.

Height of power

"Pablo Escobar said that the essence of the cocaine business was "simple – you bribe someone here, you bribe someone there, and you pay a friendly banker to help you bring the money back." In 1989, Forbes magazine estimated Escobar to be one of 227 billionaires in the world with a personal net worth of close to US$3 billion while his Medellín cartel controlled 80% of the global cocaine market.

While seen as an enemy of the United States and Colombian governments, Escobar was a hero to many in Medellín (especially the poor people); he was a natural at public relations and he worked to create goodwill among the poor people of Colombia. A lifelong sports fan, he was credited with building football fields and multi-sports courts, as well as sponsoring children's football teams.

Escobar was responsible for the construction of many hospitals, schools and churches in western Colombia, which gained him popularity inside the local Roman Catholic Church.

He worked hard to cultivate his "Robin Hood" image, and frequently distributed money to the poor through housing projects and other civic activities, which gained him notable popularity among the poor. The population of Medellín often helped Escobar serving as lookouts, hiding information from the authorities, or doing whatever else they could do to protect him.

Many of the wealthier residents of Medellín also viewed him as a threat. At the height of his power, drug traffickers from Medellín and other areas were handing over between 20% and 35% of their Colombian cocaine-related profits to Escobar, because he was the one who shipped the cocaine successfully to the US.

The Colombian cartels' continuing struggles to maintain supremacy resulted in Colombia quickly becoming the world’s murder capital with 25,100 violent deaths in 1991 and 27,100 in 1992. This increased murder rate was fueled by Escobar's giving money to his hitmen as a reward for killing police officers, over 600 of whom died in this way."

Besides seeing a couple of his homes and ruined offices (still left as they were these days unmaintained because the government can't decide what to do with them). Here's a little map showing the road map, or connections to transport drugs to the United States.


Although he's a billionaire, this is the modest house where the sucker was hiding out during his last days and then eventually killed on the roof out the back.


The tour gives you all the gorey photos of dead Escobar on the roof.  The police took trophey photos as if they had shot their prize deer in hunting season.


Kevin and I ran around for the rest of the afternoon. When we wandered back to the Shamrock, most wonderful Federico from KTM Moto Shop was waiting there with my bike!  I didn't expect him to finish it today and I didn't expect it to be personally delivered, especially this late.. thank you!


Federico as a local man sort of wished we didn't do the Escobar tour.  He explains that it's not a good part of Medellin history and would prefer we explore more positive things.  Totally fair enough.  For the most part, we do take the positive route, but this is such a fresh and dramatic part of history. I'd like to think the city and country are miles better than they were with Pablo and it was good to see the comparison from those times. Modern day Medellin is an awesome city.  Every single one of us have talked about how much we like it here.

I am so happy to have my bike back..!


As much as I wanted to take it for a little test ride around the blocks, we had already had enough beer that it wasn't a smart idea.  So Kevin helped me roll it into the bar for the night.


Federico in his very cool KTM machine..


The next morning however was an exciting opportunity to take it for a day ride.  Albert, who has lived for many years gives us some advice of what to see outside of Medellin.  After being in town for a few days, we are feeling a bit stir crazy and ready to ride.


This is like little Scotland in Colombia!  All three Annie, Albert and Kevin are from Scotland and then one Aussie-American feeling a bit outnumbered. ;-)


After riding for a couple hours we reached our goal destination, Guatape and the La Piedra rock that it's famous for.  There are 647 stairs you can climb to the top of the big rock, and being one who loves stairs, I'm looking forward to it!  (Kevin, not so much.. ;-)


Before we drive on to the rock, he pulls over and asks.. "Want to have lunch before or after.?"  I voted for before, as I had a feeling he'd be happy with that answer.


Fish for lunch was awesome.  What was not so awesome was when I started my bike, and fuel was pouring out everywhere!  I stopped it, the fuel would stop, I started it the fuel was gushing.

Kevin and I watched and tried so hard to figure out where it was coming from up inside the motor.  It was not visible unless we took the Safari tank off.  However!  I am just on a day ride, so I didn't put my panniers on which is where I keep my tools.  Never leave home without your tools!!  (Not like I am much use with them anyway, but they do come in handy for the guys who are.. ;-)

There was a young family here who were trying their best to help with the few tools they had, and their little girl was really special.  She had a million questions for me about Kevin.  "Is he your husband?  Is he your boyfriend?  Do you have kids?"  She will make a great Reporter someday!


Even after her Mom and Dad asked her to gear up, she was still asking questions.  "Where are you from?  Where is Kevin from? Why don't you have kids?  I think you should have kids..."  Lord have Mercy, girl!!!  Too cute..


Kevin is traveling light today as well, he has some tools, but none that will help us here.   Second problem, I want to call Federico at the KTM shop, but can't!  I have a mobile phone, but not a sim card for this country.  So it's useless!  I begged a woman in the restaurant, she didn't have a phone.  I finally found a man and begged him too.  I gave him some money and he let me call.

All the while I am worried that this is the second time I have ruined our day due to bike failure. But Kevin is the best.  He is not fussed whatsoever and likes to repeat me, "it's all part of the adventure".


Long story and long afternoon short, we can finally say goodbye to our new Colombian friends



And a friend of a friend of a friend of Federicos finally showed up with a truck to take it back to the shop in Medellin.


The next morning, all the boys come with me to the shop, and the mechanics were on the job early.  It turned out the problem was the fuel injector (which was our guess, but we couldn't get to it).  They had cleaned it out for me the day before, but the little red gasket must have gotten torn on the re-install.  They had another one in the shop and it was replaced in no time.

Cool!  So we all have another big motorcycle day planned!  James and Mark who know every shop in town want to show us the "motorcycle" street.  " If you need anything for the rest of South America, this is where you'll find it!"


Found this photo in the Kevin files.  I would like to think he was taking a photo of me until I saw what's in the window.. ha!

 Me, Mark and Conor


Kevin got lots of work done.  The rusty exhaust bit on the bottom has been treated and painted black, the scrapes buffed out of his windscreen, and a new tire.



James idea to show me the sticker shop and we went a bit overboard making "Sherri Jo's Because I Can World Tour" decals for my bike on each side, plus my name near the seat and another on my helmet.  No question it's me if you come across my bike nowadays!



I'd say we have done this town justice and it feels like we are completely refreshed for a few more months on the road.  For many reasons, I love Medellin!

Hasta luego!
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