Camp Murray Ojos del Salado Chile Part 1

Packing up Tres Cruces to move to our next stop for acclimatization.  Camp Murray. The boys were smart in planning these acclimatization stops.  Going to a high elevation too fast would likely cause altitude sickness and potentially death.  Barton is a proper mountaineer and gives us the rundown.

Altitude Sickness is a problem caused by being at high altitude where air pressure is low. Without prior acclimatization (the process of gradual exposure), it can be quite dangerous. More severe symptoms generally occur at above 3,600 meters (about 12,000 feet). Acute mountain sickness can progress to high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) or high altitude cerebral edema (HACE).

People with altitude sickness typically have a bad headache, nausea, dizziness and feel exhausted.

HAPE is a life-threatening form of non-cardiogenic pulmonary edema (fluid accumulation in the lungs).  HACE is a severe (frequently fatal) form of altitude sickness. HACE is the result of swelling of brain tissue from fluid leakage. There is no cure for this other than descending to low elevation.  We are all watching out for each other for symptoms to make that run to lower land if we need to.  But with the slow increase to each camp, we are hoping to avoid any problems.

So, it's time to move up to our second camp. Lukas didn't get too far!  Too funny.  He started to ride and he was doused with heaps of water from inside his jacket.  Their jacket design has the water pouch insert and I think it was because a hose wasn't tight or attached properly.

It was funny to watch though.  What the heck?  What's wrong? He was moving so fast. Now I know why. Cold water...! ;-)

We drove up the hill. In the photo below, if you can spot it, this is the view back to the little refugio where we've been for the last 3 days at 3700 meters (12, 140 ft).

That was pretty much it for the elevation rise.  The road seems fairly flat nearly the rest of the way.

It was afternoon when we left the camp at Tres Crusces. They left late because we don't need to go very far. But right on cue are those late afternoon dark clouds.

There is something exhilarating about being out here.  There's nobody to call for help. I feel I look at a landscape differently when I know this..

The boys are well ahead of me somewhere.. enjoying the dirt.  The ridges in the road are annoying in lower gear.  So, I am going full speed in 4th or 5th gear again, even in this soft stuff.  I find the truck really struggles with the weight if I don't.  So again, I'm glad the boys are far ahead. By having a look at the landscape next to the track, if you can even see the track.. it's all the same!  Who says I have to drive between those two little guide ridges! I'm tempted to drive in the unused part instead, if nothing else, for fun. But I refrained and controlled myself.... ;-)

I found the guys waiting for me at a turn off (again I don't have a gps, so they wait and show me).

 

The road was going to be even smaller and rougher and they wanted to check on how I was doing with the truck.  I also wanted to make sure, (as it is THEIR rental truck with a deposit for damage I am sure) that I am banging over this road so fast. They agreed that is probably best, but wanted to have a little check on the suspension as well as their gear in the back. As long as they're cool, I keep the gas on. I'm actually having a heck of a good time.  When I get home I might have to add 4 wheeling to my list of hobbies!

So they take off down the track, having a darn good time themselves.

The air temp certainly dropped and I see them waiting for me again.  It must be our last turn.

This would be the main road coming up.. Yay!

And now the dark cloud releases the snow.. I am in my truck with the heat on. But look at Walter..! Brrrrr.. I totally remember thinking this next statement when he was talking to me. I was wondering if space aliens are looking down at us now and thinking that we are far more advanced than they thought.. ;-)))

They've stopped one last time at the entrance track to Ojos del Salado.  This is exciting!  However, it is snowing and not sure exactly where the next camp is. 

They went on to do an exploratory run and asked me to wait here.  I didn't want to waste fuel so I turned the truck off, and gee whiz I was freakin' freezing inside so quickly! Oh well, better get used to it.

Got out and took a photo of my lovely truck.. appears I left the lights on.. doh!

Barton came back to get me (yes, I can tell it's him from those fancy Oakley goggles) He's looking a bit frosty too.  I feel bad, but they've got heated vests on, thank goodness.  I travel with a heated jacket myself. A vest is totally missing the arms and that's where I feel the cold most.  Anyway, they're fine and he told me there is another refugio here! 

He said the road is fine, not far and to follow him.  Gee whiz, it's like going into the abyss..

No more photos today, but it was a good night here.  Here is a photo of our refugio (Camp Murray) in the morning.  We totally expected to be using tents here, so we can't believe our luck a second time!  This camp is at 4527 meters (14,852 ft).  We'll be here another 2 or 3 days for acclimatization as well as more bike works and preparations.  I've never been on a mountain or high altitude expedition before and I didn't realize how important this process is, but I'm enjoying it.  Big head ache yes, but so far so good.

There was a group of Chilean mountain climbers inside for the night also waiting out the acclimatization thing.  There was a big room for us, so plenty of space for all.  They were leaving in the morning to do their last camp before attempting to climb Ojos by foot the next day. (I bet they are going to wish they had a motorcycle soon!!??) ;-)

We are wishing the climbers luck and a photograph before the big hike up Volcan Ojos del Salado.

I love the contrast of the clear warm mornings and the dark wild afternoons. When this group starts their ascent at 3 AM, their goal is to be at the top by noon.  Perfect timing. But good weather or not, it's got to be a tough climb to 6,893m (22,615ft)! Good luck!

I'll continue Camp Murray in part 2.  Saludos!

Camp Tres Cruces Chile

After pulling into our first camping stop during the acclimatization process, we didn't need to camp much at all!  There is actually a little house (refugio) here.  It was too dark last night, so below are the early morning photos while the boys are still sleeping.

I'm an early riser anyway, but the elevation headache has got me pretty good this morning.  Gee whiz, aspirin anyone??

Parque Nacional Nevado de Tres Cruces

Besides, I was so excited from what I saw last night, I couldn't wait to have a wander in the morning with my camera. We're going to be here for 2 or 3 days.  I know the boys will sleep in a bit.  They have been working hard since the moment they arrived from overseas.  I'll be back soon enough to put the kettle on for them.

I liked this photo from the still water. Without the reflection of the house, I'd nearly think it's just dirt to walk across as well.

Anyway, the refugio is just that.  A little refuge for people so far from civilization who need it (or want it) if it's available.  Door open, no fees, but we do have permission from the park authorities in Copiapo.

Just a building, nothing inside.  There are 4 rooms, one I used for the kitchen and the other ones we sorted out for sleeping. 

My room. I used my normal tent floor to cover up the dirty mattress.  Along with my sleeping bag, it was quite a comfortable place.. Cold, but comfortable.  I was quite happy about staying here!

I'd show you Walter and Lukas's space, but I better not.  Don't want to embarrass them... ;-) Barton stayed outside in his new red tent.  He thought we were crazy for sleeping under a roof.  I get his point, but this has it's pluses too.  We have plenty more opportunities for the tents coming up.

My little kitchen.  Three of us have cook stoves we carry for camping.  We bought a big pot at the supermarket, so I can make loads of hot water, for tea, Milo and hot porridge each morning.

The view out the front door.. LOVE IT HERE!!

There are flamingos everywhere. I've always thought of flamingos as a warm weather bird.  We saw heaps of them in the Galapagos. I didn't expect to see them here at 3700 cold meters! (12,140 ft)

Better get back to see if any movement in camp. I don't want to get fired from my day job.. I must have wandered over an hour, but I'm safe. Not a sound from any of them yet.

Once the boys did get up, it was time to play with the bikes.  They've done a lot of work preparing the bikes already, but they have many more things to do.  I'm not technically minded, so if I try to explain what they are doing to alter their bikes for high elevation, I'll get it wrong.  Besides alterations, they are just setting up their new bikes in general.  Everyone has a different idea of how to make the bike their own.

I'm busy in my little refugio sorting out all the food we bought.  Everthing was still in boxes and grocery bags, and I wanted it organized.  Breakfast food, lunch food, dinner and snacks.

Then I counted and wrote down everything I have so I can keep track of it.  I have no experience in keeping an expedition fed, but I will soon!  And I want to make sure it's all sorted (minus all the tins of tuna for Lukas.. ha!)  For instance, the first night I made pasta and heated up a bag of that pre-made pasta sauce (ick). It turned out one bag was not enough to feed 4 people.  When a packet says "serves 4" it should be more specific.  Two adults and two children?  More like four little children?  I have 3 hungry men!

Every now and then I'd peek out the front door and LOVED watching the weather change.  The colors are amazing here.

The next day is another beautiful day in the Chilean Andes.. and more bike works..

Laguna Santa Rosa, Chile

I've learned the weather here seems to have a pattern.  Morning is clear. Early afternoon is the warm bit where you don't need to wear a jacket for a while. But the late afternoon seems to muster up clouds along with rain, wind and snow.

Walter doesn't mind the oncoming weather. He keeps tinkering away at whatever needs tinkering..

Another morning and a beautiful view of the snow that last nights little dark cloud storm left behind.

I've put my foot down and being the 4th day since I last washed my hair, I'm ready to do the arctic dip.

This is my bath 'tub'.  The boys told me where to find it.  I waited until after they were fed, dishes clean and gave the sun time to warm the little pool up.  Then with a little warning, "do not come down to the lake for a few minutes.. "  I managed to get clean.  It was actually very nice!  Yes, cold.  But once I was used to it, I loved it!  And how could you complain about taking a bath in one of the most beautiful places on the planet.  I would be one of only a few who ever have or ever will in this place. I actually feel really honored to take a bath here.

You know what was in that pool?  Lots of tiny little shrimps.  Really cute to watch.  Now I know why the flamingos are here...

I started walking back to the refugio when I spotted something.  It's a vicuna that was actually really near my little bath.  Heck!  He/she doesn't seem fussed I'm here!  At the time I didn't know if it was alpaca or llama.  It's neither.  Vicuna is actually a member of the camel family.

In the 1970's they had been hunted and the population sunk to around 500.  Since they have been protected, they have bounced back.  And lucky for me in 2012, I see one right close to my bath.  It didn't have much fear and let me get quite close for a photo which I needed as I'm only carrying my little point and shoot.

What a little sweetheart.  And with the flamingos and ducks in the background, this place is pure magic. ;-))

Arriving back to camp.. and being teased.  "Hey SJ, we got photos of you with the zoom lens.."  Aw, bugger..  ;-/

Tomorrow we pack up and head for camp #2 at a higher elevation.  You can't see it in the photos, but we all had big head aches. However the longer we were here, they subsided quite a bit. Taking pain relief medicine is one thing, but the real trick is drinking as much water as possible.  This really works, however we are still in the beginning stages and need to be careful at the same time with the amount of water we drink so it lasts.